1919A4 headspacing methods

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elvis3006

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looking to find out which is the best method of headspacing a semi auto 1919A4.i have heard of using a headspace gauge, i have a 3006 1919A4 and a 7.62 C5 GPMG headspace gauge.....can i use the 7.62 gauge on my 3006? i usually do the field headspacing, tighten the barrel till the bolt will not close,then i loosen the barrel one click at a time untill i get full lock up, then i loosen the barrel 2 more clicks for 3006 and she is headspaced. this method works ok for me,but i want to know from other 30 cal owners there preffered methods. i heard some people headspace each time for different manufactured 3006 ammo,like korean ammo or USGI ammo. i would like to learn any or all ways to headspace. thanks for any help.w:h:
 
I trained alot on the old GPMG C5 if I remember, headspace is the distance from the face of the bolt to the shoulders of the chambered cartirdge. If I'm correct, then the 7.62 C5 guage will not work on your 30-06. it's been a few years since I played with that old pig iron.
 
thanks for the link Doug,but i am trying to figure out how to headspace properly for using a round from the ammo type/manufacturer i am using at this moment. from what i read on the forum, i am just not getting it. you use a live or inert round to headspace,not a gauge or the field method. also anyone out there have a 3006 broken shell extractor tool for sale?
 
with the old gpmg, we used to use 15c- but there;s a SPECIFIC number of clicks in the 1919a4 manual- i've seen it- like i saidm 15 c worksm with the dime being a go and the nickel being a no-go- but that was 7.62 nato
 
elvis3006 said:
thanks for the link Doug,but i am trying to figure out how to headspace properly for using a round from the ammo type/manufacturer i am using at this moment. from what i read on the forum, i am just not getting it. you use a live or inert round to headspace,not a gauge or the field method. also anyone out there have a 3006 broken shell extractor tool for sale?
Click to expand...

1919a4.com.faq- the first quiry in
 
God, I wish my memory was better, I was in the last course CFSEME ran on the C5... after that they went to defasco
 
Pblatzz said:
God, I wish my memory was better, I was in the last course CFSEME ran on the C5... after that they went to defasco
Click to expand...
the only thing they taught me was the old 15 cent trick- no feelers, no guages- and apparently american coinage doesn't work- and we were the first ones with the "d" handle
 
elvis3006 said:
looking to find out which is the best method of headspacing a semi auto 1919A4.i have heard of using a headspace gauge, i have a 3006 1919A4 and a 7.62 C5 GPMG headspace gauge.....can i use the 7.62 gauge on my 3006? i usually do the field headspacing, tighten the barrel till the bolt will not close,then i loosen the barrel one click at a time untill i get full lock up, then i loosen the barrel 2 more clicks for 3006 and she is headspaced. this method works ok for me,but i want to know from other 30 cal owners there preffered methods. i heard some people headspace each time for different manufactured 3006 ammo,like korean ammo or USGI ammo. i would like to learn any or all ways to headspace. thanks for any help.w:h:
Click to expand...

I used the C5 GPMG from 84-96 so maybe I can answer this.
I would stick with the 30.06 gauge since this is the caliber of your gun.

The proper method was to turn the barrel all the way tight into the barrel extension, insert the gauge into the T-slot and allow the breech block to close under control, but not babied either. Turn the barrel out one click until the barrel extension closes tight against the trunion.

The turning two more clicks was a troop thing to get the action a bit looser and fire with a faster rate of fire, not needed with a semi gun obviously. However, since it is a semi an additional click or two shouldn't hurt it, depends on whether you want to keep the brass for reloading.

If you are using different brands of ammo I would stick the the proper head spacing/timing procedure and adjust as needed, don't try to anticipate what you need. If it is short recoil, then open on click at a time until it functions properly. if it seems like excessive recoil after being properly head spaced, take it to a smith, don't #### around.

There is of course the timing of the gun with the go and no-go gauges but I don't know if this is required with a semi only gun.
 
thanks Recce,with the semis there is no need for the timing gauge. i found out that there is another more sure way of headspacing to a particular ammo. with 3006 surplus so scarce now i find myself firing what i can get in 3006. i have Korean surplus ammo and some french surplus,the method i found for headspacing different quality/manufactured ammo is to use the breaching method of headspacing. this way you know the gun is headspaced to that particular ammo. a bit of a pain in the ass to do,but apparently it is safer when using low grade or old ammo.....like the french crap i am using now. i have so far had 4 stoppages of primer struck but round did not go off,and another where the shell/brass broke in two just below the neck leaving the upper shell wedged in the chamber.next round fed in and got jammed causing the bolt to not close fully. this could have gone bad,but didnt. i was able to clear the stoppage and continued firing. anyone know where i can find a broken 3006 shell extractor in Canada for a 1919A4 without having to give up my first born,and jump through import/export hoops?
 
gutinater said:
I understand the principal of headspacing the m1919, the only part I dont understand is how do you tell if you have full bolt lock-up?
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The accelerators have tripped and pushed the bolt forward. That is the only mechanical lock there is.

The parts are supposed to be not completely snug. Sometimes they need to fit a little sloppy. I was taught to run those old babes the wetter the better, and had a squirt bottle of thin oil beside me. The pants were always stained after a hard day in the trenches. There is a lot of friction in between those moving parts, nestled inside the nether regions. ... :adult: :cheers: Whoa! I need a smoke after that description!
 
elvis3006 said:
... i have so far had 4 stoppages of primer struck but round did not go off,and another where the shell/brass broke in two just below the neck leaving the upper shell wedged in the chamber. next round fed in and got jammed causing the bolt to not close fully. this could have gone bad,but didnt. i was able to clear the stoppage and continued firing. anyone know where i can find a broken 3006 shell extractor in Canada for a 1919A4 without having to give up my first born,and jump through import/export hoops?
Click to expand...

If the case separates, you have too much headspace. The issue tool is a gangly thing that looks like a Christmas walnut cracker. Any 30-06 separated case tool off flea-bay will do the trick. As long as it engages the notches on the bolt face, you're good. That is where I've found all my case tools.

If the primer doesn't fire, check for firing pin protrusion (round and sticking out). Then strip the bolt and clean the firing pin spring. It may have some junk or grit. Likewise clean the inside of the bolt with a .30cal rod and jag. The sear is a little fidgety thing as I recall. Check for burrs that are snagging on release. If you're not completely satisfied, get a new firing pin. The 7.62 one might substitute if a 30-06 isn't easy to find.
 
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