How

You might be better reaming your mini-30 chamber a bit more towards the comblock chamber dimensions and give it a good polish than mess with the ammo.
 
Steve Janes said:
this reaming the chamber seams like a good idea, thats just making it slightly bigger right? Explain more, is this something I can do easily or a smith job If that is in fact the problem.......thats why I wanted to remove the lacquer and try that way b4 messing with the gun
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It's a smiths' job. You need the right tools to ream a chamber. Maybe you can try polishing it a bit and smoothing out the sharp edges that scrape the laquer off during feeding.
 
Steve Janes said:
THANK YOU!!!!!

I have heard many idea as to removing the lacquer, and will try, other than that, this is the second NEW mini 30 this has happened with, and the other issue is the soft strikes, this is solved 100% by getting a extra power hammer spring from accuracy systems in the states, they will ship here I have one I got from them and it fixed it, b4 the new spring 40% were mis fire all due to soft strike, now with the new spring, excellent, but the chamber gets DISGUSTING after like 15 rounds of surp, and there is what looks like wax shaving all over the mouth of the chamber, it can only be lacquer off the rounds right, and it gums stuff up bad...


also the lacquer has caused my CZ858 to jam horribly, 2 times, the extractor tore the case head right off and i had to destroy a cleaning rod to get the stuck chamber out, the 2nd time it was in there so hard it was nearly a smith job
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Have you tried other surplus...like from a different crate. I had one crate that the lacquer would peel like wax and gumed the #### out of my Cz858 after about 250 rounds. The next crate of 1200rds went through fine in one day without cleaning.
 
mlehtovaara said:
Tumbling some .223 reloads right now! :eek:

Have done so since I started reloading a couple years ago. No problems here.

Oh and yeah, why the hell are you removing the lacquer from cases?

Even if you get a stuck case it will take less time to get it out than it would to remove the lacquer from a crate of surplus!
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good point about stuck cases and lacquer making it a bit easier to remove them, if you took this steel case, and removed the lacquer, shot it, and then sufered another stuck case, with out that lacquer, and now a stuck steel case you would be up a #### creek with out a paddle if that happened when your lief depended on it! but then again after having mainy ruger minis over the years i wouldnt use one as my shtf gun lol!!! also ruger didnt seem to get it right with the mini 30 barrel either! they designed it to shoot .308 caliber bullets, when true com block 7.62x39mm uses .310-.311 bullets! just saying!
 
kickassnikov47 said:
good point about stuck cases and lacquer making it a bit easier to remove them, if you took this steel case, and removed the lacquer, shot it, and then sufered another stuck case, with out that lacquer, and now a stuck steel case you would be up a s**t creek with out a paddle if that happened when your lief depended on it! but then again after having mainy ruger minis over the years i wouldnt use one as my shtf gun lol!!! also ruger didnt seem to get it right with the mini 30 barrel either! they designed it to shoot .308 caliber bullets, when true com block 7.62x39mm uses .310-.311 bullets! just saying!
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not to sounds nitpickey but where did he say the laquer helped you get a stuck case out?

He simply said it would take less time to remove a stuck case than it would to remove all the laquer on the cases....

however if every casse stuck i don't think that would be accurate. and it woudl sure piss me off if my semiauto became a muzzle loader, becasue i had to shove a rod down teh barrel to remove the case after every shot.
 
I have several bolt actions that I made up and one CZ. None of the Czech surplus ever gummed up in the chamber even after 200rds without cleaning. Only the necks gets burned and the main heat is in front of the chamber. Cases come out just warm with lacquer still intact.

Put your finger around the mouth of the chamber and see if it's sharp. Does it feel like it will cut you? There should be a bevel or slight chamfer with no burs. If really sharp take some Emery cloth and break the sharp edge. Polishing the chamber won't be so easy without removing the barrel and probably not necessary. Does it cycle brass cases perfectly?
 
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