The 760/7600 Club

smtm said:
Pump as soon as you pull the trigger, then the action will be closed.
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So are you saying that with the heavier recoiling 7600's the momentum of the recoiling rifle and your hand on the foregrip actually opens the action so all you have to do is slam it forward to shoot again? That's actually pretty nice!

I was cycling some dummy rounds last night and noticed that I had to snap the action closed quite forcefully to get the rim under the extractor --- is that typical for the pumps?
 
stickhunter said:
So are you saying that with the heavier recoiling 7600's the momentum of the recoiling rifle and your hand on the foregrip actually opens the action so all you have to do is slam it forward to shoot again? That's actually pretty nice!

I was cycling some dummy rounds last night and noticed that I had to snap the action closed quite forcefully to get the rim under the extractor --- is that typical for the pumps?
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Rem pumps work better the harder you run them as a rule. But you maybe experiencing some resistance with your dummy rounds if you didn't full length size the brass?
 
280carbine said:
I had one in 35 Whelen. I did not like how the action opened up itself ever time I fired it.Just seemed unsafe.Other chamberings dont seem to do this.
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I had a Model 7600 in 280 Rem that did this as well. If I was shooting off the bench and had just the forward end of the pump on the bag it would actually eject the shell if I wasn't hanging on to the pump. It was one of the fastest cycling pumps I ever had! In a moment of temporary insanity I sold that gun!
 
Out of the ones I have owned. The nicest one was a .280 with "D" grade wood. Wish I never sold that baby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dave.
 
Okay 7600 club, I need your help. My brother has a 7600 in 35 Whelen. Shot a lot of big Maine bucks with it, but he's never been able to shoot tight groups with it. (Like he's getting three inches or more at 100 yards.)
But I know he can shoot, because he'll get under one inch with my Savage tackdriver. Anyway, is there any reason you all can think of why his 7600 might not be shooting well. The scope he has it is S#*t, and he's just using a weaver rail as a mount.
I'm trying to convince him to Leupy up and use the Leupy base, too.
Any thoughts? I'm all ears. I hate the thought of a family member's gun not performing as it should.
Thanks.
 
I prefer the talley mounts to the leupold or weaver, and he needs a good scope, or he may be fighting a losing battle.

Also, mine always shot better with handloads tailored for them. If he is shooting factory ammo, 3" groups is all he might get.
 
760 "leftie".....

I picked up a Mod.760 carbine in .3006 A couple of years ago.It has a left hand safety and a really nice left hand monte carlo walnut stock.The ejection port(unfortunatly is still on the standard side)This rifle was bought new in 1976.My questions are,how long did they offer these in lefthand? and does being a lefthand add any value to this rifle? Thanks.
 
rebel01 said:
I picked up a Mod.760 carbine in .3006 A couple of years ago.It has a left hand safety and a really nice left hand monte carlo walnut stock.The ejection port(unfortunatly is still on the standard side)This rifle was bought new in 1976.My questions are,how long did they offer these in lefthand? and does being a lefthand add any value to this rifle? Thanks.
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Are you sure it was 76 and not 66.
They were offered in 66 but I'm not sure after that. I am a lefty and shoot all right hand ones just fine . Being a lefty may drop value not add to it since smaller market.

1966--Introduction of BDL GRADE with impressed basket weave checkering on stock and forearm with a stepped receiver. Addition of Left hand model ( Buttstock and Safety )in BDL grade .270 - .308 - .30-06 Calibers.
Lefty 5% of total production
 
Model 760 resumed in late 1943 , with three sizes of receivers to chamber the .300 H & H Mag., the .30-06 Sprg, the .35 Rem., the .22 Hornet and the .30 Carbine.

WOW
300 H&H, and 22 Hornet.
 
Ok i'm in I have 760 carbine in 30 06 topped with a scopechief VI tip off scope. It is the first rifle I ever bought. 30 years ago. I hunted with it right up till 5 years ago when I bought a 7m rem mag.
 
I'm not a member of the club by my father is.

I recently refinished his 760 in .308 without telling him ahead of time. I also took off the Tasco in tip-offs and replaced it with a Leupold 2-7 on a Weaver base with Millet rings.

The biggest job was recutting the stamped-in checkering to turn it into real checkering. That stamped-in checkering is really offensive IMO.

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This is a five shot group fired at 100 yards with 165gn Nosler Ballistic Tips and RL 15. The outside shot was from a clean barrel (1" squares). Nothing wrong there!

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TwoTone said:
I'm not a member of the club by my father is.

I recently refinished his 760 in .308 without telling him ahead of time. I also took off the Tasco in tip-offs and replaced it with a Leupold 2-7 on a Weaver base with Millet rings.

The biggest job was recutting the stamped-in checkering to turn it into real checkering. That stamped-checkering is really offensive IMO.

Very nice work. What products did you use on the bluing and on the wood.
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3macs1 said:
TwoTone said:
I'm not a member of the club by my father is.

I recently refinished his 760 in .308 without telling him ahead of time. I also took off the Tasco in tip-offs and replaced it with a Leupold 2-7 on a Weaver base with Millet rings.

The biggest job was recutting the stamped-in checkering to turn it into real checkering. That stamped-checkering is really offensive IMO.

Very nice work. What products did you use on the bluing and on the wood.
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Thanks.

All I did with the metal was a complete disassembly, a cleaning of all the parts and a rub down of the blueing with 0000 steel wool and Fluid Film. It was in pretty decent shape anyway underneath a bit of grime.

On the stocks I used multiple coats of Tru-0il, rubbed down with 0000 steel wool between coats. For a satin finish I did a final rub using a felt pad with powdered pumice from Brownells mixed with boiled linseed oil .



I've used the same technique with spray can Varathane and gotten good results as well:

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TwoTone said:
3macs1 said:
Thanks.

All I did with the metal was a complete disassembly, a cleaning of all the parts and a rub down of the blueing with 0000 steel wool and Fluid Film. It was in pretty decent shape anyway underneath a bit of grime.

On the stocks I used multiple coats of Tru-0il, rubbed down with 0000 steel wool between coats. For a satin finish I did a final rub using a felt pad with powdered pumice from Brownells mixed with boiled linseed oil .



I've used the same technique with spray can Varathane and gotten good results as well:

Thanks for sharing. I have one to do here now and hope I can do 1/2 the job you did. take care
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