please delete

Same question gets ask every week, take a look what has already been said.

Between "better rifle" and "better price" you can only pick one.


Building your first AR from scratch you will end up with a "Franken AR" that will be marginal at best. keeping it simple by waiting for the right assembly you are looking for to pop up in EE, than change parts out later on as you know what you like and don't like.
 
I don't get the need for a piston gun (much less an adjustable piston system). If you're using it for long range work at the local F&G a DI gun will do everything you want and the idiosyncracies of DI guns and accuracy are well sign posted. You'll end up shooting one load, probably a heavy bullet VMax or VLD loaded close to the max length the magazine will allow. The nice thing about DI guns with longer barrels is that they're fairly pressure agnostic. Also don't confuse heavy barrels with accurate barrels, there are situations where a barrel can be too heavy for the upper housing which basically destroys the upper.
 
enefgee said:
I don't get the need for a piston gun (much less an adjustable piston system). If you're using it for long range work at the local F&G a DI gun will do everything you want and the idiosyncracies of DI guns and accuracy are well sign posted. You'll end up shooting one load, probably a heavy bullet VMax or VLD loaded close to the max length the magazine will allow. The nice thing about DI guns with longer barrels is that they're fairly pressure agnostic. Also don't confuse heavy barrels with accurate barrels, there are situations where a barrel can be too heavy for the upper housing which basically destroys the upper.
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so if you go with a long heavy barrel you should get a longer twist? example: 1/12. just so you put less wear a tair on the barrel and upper.
i'm learning just figuaring this stuff out
 
Cpt.Flan said:
No.

The twist of the barrel will determine its purpose and what GRAIN ( weight ) of the bullet it is plan to be use with.

Ex. A faster twist like the 1/7 will be better for heavier bullets. The 1/12 is quite the opposite. Made for lighter bullets.

The heavier the bullet is the more torque it will need from the barrel twist to stabilize it. Therefore a faster twist.

Mainly the difference between a long versus a short barrel you will get is the bullet velocities. Longer barrel will give you higher velocities with the same exact ammunition. Higher velocity will have a flatter trajectory and will go further. More precise? Up to certain distances yes.
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Thanks, Thumbs up
 
Where are you at? The best thing I can suggest is attend a local match, and look at what is being used. At a typical match, we will have 20inchers, as well as 16s. Sometimes 14.5s, or shorter. All make it out to 500m with varying success.

What kind of a long range do you have access to? 16 inchers are often used to 500m, and 20 inchers further.

Do you reload? 1:8 or faster will let you run 77 grainers. Unless you reload, I wouldn't be in a rush to hold out for a fast twist barrel, though it would be just fine on 55gr as well. 55gr factory bullets will be cheaper then 77s, and do just fine most of the time.
 
I suggest getting a stock good old ar from a mainstream company and shoot it a bit. Then as funds and experience/desire come around change to what you want. Free float handguard and trigger replacement should be first on the list after optic if thats what you wanna go for. I suggest researching how to do the stuff yourself. Gain the knowledge with that and later buy something pimping when you know what your talking about.
 
1:7 and 1:8 will allow you to shoot most anything. A 1:9 would limit you to the lighter end, so if you plan on doing long range accurate shooting, I would definitely go with a faster twist as you will eventually want to experiment with heavy grain rounds.
 
Some do, some don't. Marginal stability can also be lost if conditions (altitude, temperature etc) change.
 
hbean said:
Building your first AR from scratch you will end up with a "Franken AR" that will be marginal at best. keeping it simple by waiting for the right assembly you are looking for to pop up in EE, than change parts out later on as you know what you like and don't like.
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There's nothing wrong with a "Franken AR", and they're hardly marginal. A few examples.

frankenar.jpg

frankencqb.jpg
 
I'm new to the AR game. Just picked up a Smith and Wesson MP 15. Paid more than for a Norc, but it is more affordable than a Stag for example. Great pc of kit. I love it, and would buy it again.
 
i started with what i wana shoot(longer ranges). so second part i bought was a 20" barrel 1/9 rra. looking for the right free float handgaurd/ rail now(12" to 14"). i will worry about the lower last.
 
ESQ said:
Some do, some don't. Marginal stability can also be lost if conditions (altitude, temperature etc) change.
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My point was that 1/9 is not limited to the lighter end of the .223 bullets (40-77) it is right in the middle and covers most of the bullets people shoot under most conditions.
 
Gunnerlove said:
My 20" 1/9 stabilizes 77gr SMKs just fine.
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Thanks for saying that. It seems like everytime I say that the Stag Arms 1/9 (actually 1/8.5) stabilizes the 77 SMK just fine, someone invariably will then tell me it won't... even after I've posted sub-MOA pics to the contrary. ;)

I've shot them from the cold of winter to hot summer days. So have others. Never heard of one that wouldn't handle the 77. Stag arms concurs.
In fact, they shoot very well.

Cheers,
DT
 
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