Im just wonder if anybody has seen this before and if its an easy fix I installed a full set of dlask rails and magpul back up sights and tried to sight it in and with the front sight adjusted all the way out ( I cant lock it down ) Im still hitting a foot above my target at 50 yards. I couldnt figure it out untill i put a rule across the rails and wow almost an 1/8" of droop it looks as if the hand guard is the culprit maybe from disassembly . Everything else is factory. Any infor would be great thanks.http://s1090.photobucket.com/albums...dmurdoch604/?action=view¤t=100_3318.jpg
SR22 rails not lining up
- Thread starter madmurdoch
- Start date
Couple questions.
Is the hand guard on tight?
Are the two bolts that hold the hand guard on tight?
Is the HG tube still circular or is it warped if you roll it on a flat surface?
If all is good, I would send that picture (and rail) to Dlask and he may get you a replacement. It may be milled wrong so I would call them, doesn't hurt to ask.
Is the hand guard on tight?
Are the two bolts that hold the hand guard on tight?
Is the HG tube still circular or is it warped if you roll it on a flat surface?
If all is good, I would send that picture (and rail) to Dlask and he may get you a replacement. It may be milled wrong so I would call them, doesn't hurt to ask.
Well, if you can use a straight edge/ruler to check the miss-alignment,
then I guess you can use a caliper or similar device to check and see
if the top rail has the same thickness front and rear.
If it has, then you can safely assume the top rail is parallel and
it is not the cause of the miss-alignment.
Try to check it and see what you find.
There are many people posting the facts you just found on your SR-22.
The real reason for that typical case of miss-alignment
is a glitch in the design of the stock.
There are 2 bolts holding together the
front and central pieces of the stock.
These bolts (screws) are very low compared to
the center of the parts they are supposed to tighten together.
When they are tight, the handguard may droop a little.
Over-tightening them will actually make the matters even worse.
Take apart the front and the central piece of the stock
and inspect the mating surfaces.
Make sure there is no dirt/paint or whatever between them.
Re-tighten the bolts without using un-reasonable force.
About your other problem, the gap between the top rail and the receiver rail.
I suggest you screw the large nut as close as possible to the front piece of the stock.
Also, screw the handguard tube more on the large nut.
Lock it against rotation using the lock ring.
Loosen the top rail screws and move the rail rearward to close the remaining gap.
PS: I suggest you learn how to post pictures from your photobucket account
and do not allow visitors to see the whole album, especially if the album contains
construction detail of your vault or safe door/lock that you don't want them to see.
Is this a problem? And it think you mean the gap between the top rail and the upper rail on the handguard, unless i'm off base.
I've also got that gap on mine, by I just look at much the way I look at the gap between my cab, and the box of my truck
However, if I can reduce that gap and still tighten things in correctly/securely, I'd look at that too
You can also remove the two facing parts (2 screws at the bottom front) and see how flat and true the mating surfaces are. I had some small raised areas on the forearm adaptor
(Part BSR16900) that made it appear bowed and prevented it from fitting flush to the receiver face. Sand or file this smooth and check the receiver face also. You can actually touch the adapter on the face of a belt sander and put a slight angle to it to get it perfect (klutz' should probably avoid trying this). I had the same problem at first and now mine fits perfect.
I must admit, this attachment arrangement using an adapter is a pretty feeble attempt at mimicking a true solid attacment. To me, I get the feeling that a strong impact on the top side of the handguard puts all the force on the lower two screws and and the small area of the adapter below it.
(Part BSR16900) that made it appear bowed and prevented it from fitting flush to the receiver face. Sand or file this smooth and check the receiver face also. You can actually touch the adapter on the face of a belt sander and put a slight angle to it to get it perfect (klutz' should probably avoid trying this). I had the same problem at first and now mine fits perfect.
I must admit, this attachment arrangement using an adapter is a pretty feeble attempt at mimicking a true solid attacment. To me, I get the feeling that a strong impact on the top side of the handguard puts all the force on the lower two screws and and the small area of the adapter below it.
Is this a problem? And it think you mean the gap between the top rail and the upper rail on the handguard, unless i'm off base.
I've also got that gap on mine, by I just look at much the way I look at the gap between my cab, and the box of my truck
However, if I can reduce that gap and still tighten things in correctly/securely, I'd look at that too
Only asthetically. But like the good Dr mentioned. Screw the hand guard nut in as much as you can, and then the tube until you get it in enough so there is no space. I had to fittle with it on mine myself to get it just right.
Hmm, seeing yours makes me want to make mine closer too.. I'll take it down tomorrow night and check it out
Sorry Dr Lector I was not implying that it was the rails I just didnt notice the alignment problem till I had them. They are great, the quality is awesome and I will be back for more stuff for sure. Now I think I found the problem, I disassembled it again and put it back together minus the spacer between the barrel and the hand guard the one the sling attachment goes through and there is no misalignment now. i put a micrometer to it and the spacer is .57" and the space between the barrel and the hand guard is .52" (sorry im a welder not a machinist). Is it possible to modify this.
Do you mean the little plastic barrel support block? If so, you may be able to shave it down to the right size, just be careful not to take off too much.
Better yet, call Dlask and get yourself a nice .920 Bull Barrel and matching Barrel Support Block
The barrel support block is not needed. Research this a bit on the net and you will find most people remove the block completely since it gives erratic shots when shooting offhand or putting pressure on the handguard. It was put their with good intentions by Ruger but the adapter plate attachment is too flimsy and allows enough flex to constantly change the pressure of the block on the barrel. I brought my 50 yrd groupings down from 1 1/2" to just under an inch by removing the block.
If you do a little more research on the net you will see that the Jury is still out on this one as half say it will cause barrel droop ,the other half says it wont .
As for the rails , the top one on mine is the factory ruger one, the holes on it are elongated so it can be moved back and forth a bit , I put it right up against the receiver rail and tightened it up .
