Benelli M4 night sight question
- Thread starter jasonn
- Start date
F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
Mine came with the glow-in-the-dark sights.
The front sight is a PITA to remove though, the rear isn't quite as bad.
The front sight is a PITA to remove though, the rear isn't quite as bad.
F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
yep, unscrew the windage screw from the size and the ghost ring aperture should come right out the top.
And yeah they dont stay "charged" for very long, maybe 10-15 min. when I use my Surefire M6 Guardian (the heavy hitter) to charge em up. A flashlight is a much more useful tool than the glow-sights, although it a little difficult to get a good flashlight on the M4 without modifying it.
This is what I ended up doing:
A surefire 6P LED Defender with a 1" ring mount puts the light just in front of my thumb on my off hand.
F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
I did it myself, not a very easy task. But doable.
The rail section was from a Mesa Tactical add-on rail for the "double mag tube clamp" they have. Since the hole was right in between 2 cross bars, it could be nice and short... You have to cut off the extra on both sides, and then round out the bottom so it fits flush to the handguard hanger (and prevents it from rotating or torquing when bumped)
I drilled a hole through the handguard hanger, then I had to take (and HEAVILY modify) a "furniture" leg insert:
(you'll need to measure the screw and what thread pattern it is, It was at the local home depot though)
Now the hole in your handguard hanger has to be big enough for the MIDDLE section to fit through. You will also need to drill out the hole in the piece of rail so the threaded portion can fit into the rail as well...
For the threaded insert, you need to cut off 2 of the prongs (opposing each other) and cut off the remaining 2 spikes (so it looks sorta like http://www.ergogrips.net/images/hwp_alumump.gif that, but thinner). You will need to cut DOWN the threads shorter as well, or it will be too long and hit the head of the screw.
photoshop of what it should look like with the stuff cut off:
THEN you will need to take a file, and file it down THINNER on the bottom, and rounded off on the top of the "wings" so it fits nice and snug into the inside of the handguard hanger without touching the mag tube. This takes a bit of work... Once its in, I took some crocus cloth and a steel rod to flatten it even more. It shouldn't touch the mag tube at all, you should be able to get a piece of paper through the space! They should be VERY thin! MAYBE half a mm thick...
Once all the fitting is done, I used JB Weld (the stuff that takes 15 hours to cure!) and epoxied it on... Masked it off and did some paint touch ups, done!
Honestly, if you know a welder, it would be a lot easier to weld a small section of picatinny rail on, then re-blue everything
F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
The easiest way:
Mesa Tactical.
On mine:
I used to have that setup.
Because of the M4's heavily contoured barrel (not parallel barrel walls) if the clamp was tight enough to not move, it would pinch the mag tube (the mag tube walls on the M4 are very thin, to help reduce weight) and prevent shells from feeding to full capacity (yes I tested this), and if it was loose enough to not pinch the mag tube, it would move and jiggle around.
Not to mention, you have to unscrew it every time you want to field strip your gun, and since the actual CLAMP screws were not heli-coiled (funny since the picatinny rail screw holes are), every time you take it off and put it back on, the threads in the aluminum would weaken a bit more...
The barrel clamp idea was one of the first I tried, but I gave up because there were so many problems it created...
Ya I agree with F22, those clamp ons do not work well with the M4 at all for the reasons he stated.
I went with the Fabarms foregrip, it fit like ass when I first got it but after alot of fitting it is fine now and I can strip it without removing the foregrip so I dont lose my zero on the X400 everytime.
I went with the Fabarms foregrip, it fit like ass when I first got it but after alot of fitting it is fine now and I can strip it without removing the foregrip so I dont lose my zero on the X400 everytime.
F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
The Fab Defence one?
I actually have one too, I cut the top section off and used some JB Weld (with 300 degree C heat rating) as filler for the sides. (although keeping the top rail on works well, I just didn't want it
)They require a lot of fitting (mainly around the barrel/receiver interface), but they are actually really well made, I usually use it because the grip is a little "bigger". The bottom rail is pretty easy on the hands, but works GREAT with gloves!
And yeah I have had more "versions" of this darned thing than I can imagine, so many changes
ETA
Pic before I took the top off of it:
Interesting, I have about 300 rounds through the setup and have encountered none of those issues, besides the PITA to remove clamp to disassemble.
I will have to keep an eye out and report back in the future.
Ya F22 the Fab defence one just like yours. Your mod looks cool with the top chopped off. Try a Magpul AFG 2 on the bottom rail, it works pretty good with it.
I still might just have a piece of picatinny rail welded from the rear barrel support to the front one. It would be simple and hold zero for a laser very well on takedowns.
I still might just have a piece of picatinny rail welded from the rear barrel support to the front one. It would be simple and hold zero for a laser very well on takedowns.
...
Exactly this happened this past weekend, need to revise the light mount solution. Mag tube is pinched causing the follower from not going forward.
Well, at least I got my first real malf's with the m4.
F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
...
Exactly this happened this past weekend, need to revise the light mount solution. Mag tube is pinched causing the follower from not going forward.
Well, at least I got my first real malf's with the m4.
I forget if I posted this here before, but I have used this guy:
with good success and no binding. It has rubber pads on the inside to prevent slippage, and since it clamps almost all the way around, it has more surface area to clamp on (so it doesn't need to be as tight).
It also has heli-coils on the threads so you can take it on and off without worrying about the threads degrading as fast.
The BAD side, is that you cant strip the gun without taking the mount off, or at least loosening it so you can move it up and down the tube. Or you can put it farther forwards (on the faux extension) and when the barrel gets that far ahead, you can just rotate the barrel so you can get the bolt carrier out.
Tactical Shotgunner sells those guys, they are made by Insight Technologies, although they're not "picatinny" spec, I have had picatinny or weaver mounts work with it. It does work with "glock" style Universal mounts.
ETA
I actually still have mine laying around somewhere, the condition is a tad rough where the picatinny 1" mounts attached, but still pretty good
