If Savage brought out a newly designed lever gun, what would you like to see?

[zywina]

I can't believe some of you guys think a 99 Savage is ugly, this is one of the most usefull built levers in existance especially for modern calibres and scoping possibilities!

If Savage could bring back the 1899 in a pistol calibre with a miniturized action in 25-20-32-20,357, 44mag, also a carbine in 338Federal, 358Win,450marlin.

Savage will never be able to make a modern lever of quality as this is a thing of the past, of this due to the throw away society look out on life! when my grandfather and father went to buy a gun they made damb sure it would last there's and there boys life time! I see Quality is becoming a thing of the past, so sad it has come to this!

I wish Savage good luck in introducing a new lever design, they have a hard act to follow!Dale Z

 

[Dorian Gray]

JMO,but you could'nt Pay me to Hunt with any Savage Rifle.

See, that's the way i used to think. Then i bought a 99 in 300 Savage to give them a try. I bought it on a whim and i can't get enough of it now. The action is smooth as silk. It's a great gun to carry around in the thick sh*t. (I live in really swampy/forested country, i.e. North Eastern Ontario) It's just an all around GREAT gun. Like i said before, I'm just looking to find one in .308 with the detachable magazine for a truck gun. Can't wait 'till i find one for a good price.

 

[MK2750]

JMO,but you could'nt Pay me to Hunt with any Savage Rifle.

I know what you're sayin. This little 250 worked fine for Great Grand Paw, Grand Paw, My Dad and myself. Then a couple years ago when passed down to my son it started throwing loose groups of 2-3 inches

Surely a person could expect 5 generations of shooting with out any issues!

Anyhow it has a new Ron Smith barrel now and groups are back under an inch, But who wants to be changing the barrel on a rifle every 90 years

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[Canuck444]

how about something to replace both the 24 combo gun and the 99 lever?

I am thinking of a side by side falling block, single lever actuated with ejectors so it covers the lever gun and the side by side would allow it in any number of interesting combinations. I would sign up for a double 375 H&H with 20" barrels (shorter oal than a guide gun), 270wsm/270wsm w 26" barrels & 22-250/20 gauge

basically a side by side ruger number 1, wouldn't that be deadly? I am thinking of making one for an upcoming project, will let you know how it goes.

 

[tactical lever]

I know what you're sayin. This little 250 worked fine for Great Grand Paw, Grand Paw, My Dad and myself. Then a couple years ago when passed down to my son it started throwing loose groups of 2-3 inches

Surely a person could expect 5 generations of shooting with out any issues!

Anyhow it has a new Ron Smith barrel now and groups are back under an inch, But who wants to be changing the barrel on a rifle every 90 years

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Never thought I'd say it, but that's a slick lookin' rig you got there. Not too shabby for a 90 year old!

 

[zywina]

Who did the Bluing job? It looks like a gun should with nice high gloss polished metal!I need a name as I am going to reblue my WIn 88 358 carbine that I am making up!cheers Dale Z!

 

[LCruiser]

MK2750
You've done a darn fine job on the refinish of that little carbine. did you need to do any work on the fore-end to get it shooting well again? I'm playing with a later .250 now and it's starting to shoot with a bit of work. I think the earlier craftsmen did a better fitting job on those little guns.

Here's a couple of them, a .300 and a .250, that my buddy had worked over.

 

[MK2750]

MK2750
You've done a darn fine job on the refinish of that little carbine. did you need to do any work on the fore-end to get it shooting well again? I'm playing with a later .250 now and it's starting to shoot with a bit of work. I think the earlier craftsmen did a better fitting job on those little guns.

Here's a couple of them, a .300 and a .250, that my buddy had worked over.

Mine is a take-down and yes it is a little fickle about forearm pressure. It shoots over 2" with a pressure point. First two are good, the third starts to string and gets worse from there.

Right now I have a slice of tire tube under the chamber. This makes the release very tight to engage. The pressure point has been removed and the barrel is floating. The only contact is the tire tube (approx 1"x2" as far back as I could get it) and the release itself. Shot a five shot group just a hair over an 1 1/2" which is better than I expected from this type of rifle.

Fitting work etc done by Bob at Custom Gunworks Rocky Mtn. House AB. Barrel is a Ron Smith gain twist. Have only tried 100gr. factory Win loads so needless to say I am very happy with it.

Those are very nice looking rigs you have. Almost too nice to shoot.

 

[tactical lever]

Mine is a take-down and yes it is a little fickle about forearm pressure. It shoots over 2" with a pressure point. First two are good, the third starts to string and gets worse from there.

Right now I have a slice of tire tube under the chamber. This makes the release very tight to engage. The pressure point has been removed and the barrel is floating. The only contact is the tire tube (approx 1"x2" as far back as I could get it) and the release itself. Shot a five shot group just a hair over an 1 1/2" which is better than I expected from this type of rifle.

Fitting work etc done by Bob at Custom Gunworks Rocky Mtn. House AB. Barrel is a Ron Smith gain twist. Have only tried 100gr. factory Win loads so needless to say I am very happy with it.

Those are very nice looking rigs you have. Almost too nice to shoot.

I've heard that using silicone bedding the front end is supposed to help. I haven't tried it myself yet, but supposedly it dampens the vibration and makes it less sensitive to hold. Have you heard about this or tried it? (Or any other bedding option for levers?)

 

[MK2750]

I've heard that using silicone bedding the front end is supposed to help. I haven't tried it myself yet, but supposedly it dampens the vibration and makes it less sensitive to hold. Have you heard about this or tried it? (Or any other bedding option for levers?)

I tried everything on the original barrel including silicone, cork, rubber, an o-ring on the release, full lenght bedding etc etc. I tried all sorts of different pressures as well. I got some decent results but decided I wanted to shoot a heavier bullet so the 1 in 14 twist had to go.

The best results I find are as close as you can get to free floating and most of the research I read stated the same. If yours is not take-down an o-ring at the screw should do it.

I think the rubber tire tube cut in a small piece works better than the silicone as a pressure point as it responds less to the hot/cold.

I have a pain in the @#$ 303 Brit that now shoots well with a slice of rubber as a pressure point.With a silicone pressure point or cork it seemed to shrink when cold as the first shot was always out to left field.

My 99 has a light barrel and does not seem to like any pressure as it heats up quickly. In hind sight I may have went with a slightly heavier barrel rather than an exact copy of the original.

 

[LCruiser]

Just to keep the record straight, those real pretty 99's aren't mine. I have a later model in .250 with a tang safety.

Today I received a copy of McPherson's 'Accurizing the Factory Rifle' and took a quick look at what he does for the 99.
He pillar beds the barrel hanger, then makes sure there's some clearance (the equivalent of several layers of masking tape) to allow some fore and aft movement where the fore-end fits the receiver. This clearance prevents stresses as the barrel heats or the wood shifts with age and/or humidity changes.

He then beds the barrel completely, except for some clearance around the pillar, using Permatex, a black silicon sealant from Loctite. It appears the 'fore - aft' clearance at the rear of the fore-end is also filled and cushioned with the flexible black material, but just around the outer perimeter of where the fore-end fits the receiver, not inside the recess.

Right now I'm getting 1.25 - 1.5" 3 shot groups with medium loads. The groups start to open up quickly if I try to heat things up a bit. Perhaps the bedding process would help this. I'm not too excited over trying to build a pillar with two inner diameters to accommodate the hanger.

I love guns like this. Without at least one that isn't shooting quite up to potential I wouldn't get to the range nearly as often.

 

[John Y Cannuck]

Just to keep the record straight, those real pretty 99's aren't mine. I have a later model in .250 with a tang safety.

Today I received a copy of McPherson's 'Accurizing the Factory Rifle' and took a quick look at what he does for the 99.
He pillar beds the barrel hanger, then makes sure there's some clearance (the equivalent of several layers of masking tape) to allow some fore and aft movement where the fore-end fits the receiver. This clearance prevents stresses as the barrel heats or the wood shifts with age and/or humidity changes.

He then beds the barrel completely, except for some clearance around the pillar, using Permatex, a black silicon sealant from Loctite. It appears the 'fore - aft' clearance at the rear of the fore-end is also filled and cushioned with the flexible black material, but just around the outer perimeter of where the fore-end fits the receiver, not inside the recess.

Right now I'm getting 1.25 - 1.5" 3 shot groups with medium loads. The groups start to open up quickly if I try to heat things up a bit. Perhaps the bedding process would help this. I'm not too excited over trying to build a pillar with two inner diameters to accommodate the hanger.

I love guns like this. Without at least one that isn't shooting quite up to potential I wouldn't get to the range nearly as often.

That's common to pretty much all lever guns. Marlins and Winchesters can also benefit from loosening the forend slightly.
A test to see if your rifle will benefit, is to shoot a number of groups with the forend on, then remove it. If it shoots better removed, then you can start work at getting that small amount of play. It doesn't take much.
I can't speak for the use of synthetic fillers. Mine have worked fine, with just a small amount of play.