Entry Level Scope for F Class

FTR Rookie,
I am gearing up for F-Class myself and was looking for good glass for shooting F-Class. Everyone says NF 12-42 with NP2DD is way to go. Well it is, but cost arm and leg for someone on budget. Another option is Sightron, which you can probably get under $1000 taxed and shipped.
I can't stress more then enough importance of good glass for shooting especially at low light, high magnification and for tracking.
Scope should cost more then rifle that was what I was told back when I was a kid and we were hunting roe deer and wild boars.

Good Luck and take a serious look at Sightron
 
Some really great advice here. I hear at the range all the time, I'm shooting one minute wind at 500m. What they are roughly saying is 5" windage at 500m (sorry for mixing the measurement units). For us nubes, over 4 clicks or 1 "@100 yards with my 1/4 click scope will achieve the same in simple hunting lingo. It gets real confusing where you over think it, but when you break it down to some simple terms. Up a minute or over a minute will become clearer and you wont need to break out the calculator over time.
 
elkhuntr said:
Some really great advice here. I hear at the range all the time, I'm shooting one minute wind at 500m. What they are roughly saying is 5" windage at 500m (sorry for mixing the measurement units). For us nubes, over 4 clicks or 1 "@100 yards with my 1/4 click scope will achieve the same in simple hunting lingo. It gets real confusing where you over think it, but when you break it down to some simple terms. Up a minute or over a minute will become clearer and you wont need to break out the calculator over time.
Click to expand...

Even simpler, use the target as a grid. Each ring is precisely sized from the center.

Get a doping chart from Richard G which will show you how many mins each ring is - in true commonwealth fashion, the rings are not linearly spaced.

But the only 2 rings that matter are. The V bull is supposed to 1/2 min across, the 5 ring, 1.

So you can use where you aimed vs where you landed to know how much to adjust. Don't overcorrect

You are moving a group NOT a single point. it'll make alot more sense after you send some lead downrange.

Each 1/8 min click has to potential to change your next shot approx 3/4" to 1" at 500m depending on your group size and how tight you can repeat your shots.

Don't over think. See the conditions, make a SWAG, send it, see what the target result is, compensate for anything you did, adj for any changes in the new air.

Eventually, you will get a feel of the air and move accordingly.

have lots of fun....

Jerry
 
Mystic Precision said:
Sightron SII Big Sky 36X w/ AO All the bells and whistles you could want and a great target reticles (FCH or target dot). Tracking has been superb and there is enough elevation to cover any F class chambering out to 1000yds.

Great optics too.

There is a mail in rebate that makes these even more affordable.

This scope was used on my backup rifle and helped a novice shooter place 3rds at the Frosty Farky at Kamloops last Sept.

From there you can work into the SIII LR line up. 1/8 min clicks become very important the further you go so the 8-32 w/ 1/8 clicks is the only options in this lineup.

I compete with the 10-50 and couldn't be happier. This one was designed from the ground up for Fclass comp. More then your budget but a scope you can use till you quit.

Precious few scopes in their price range offer the same features.

Let me know...

Jerry
Click to expand...

What's the actual difference between the SII and SII Big Sky 36x scopes? Different optical designs, coatings, something else?
 
Mystic Precision said:
From there you can work into the SIII LR line up. 1/8 min clicks become very important the further you go so the 8-32 w/ 1/8 clicks is the only options in this lineup.
Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry does the 8-32 w/ 1/8 clicks only in the TD or does the FCH have the 1/8 also? On Sightron's website the FCH in the 8-32 shows it as being 1/4.

Also does the TD obscure the 300m V or become a obstruction as you go further out? Is FCH prefered more by F-Class shooters?

Thanks.
 
SIII SS 8-32X56 scopes are 1/4 MOA, except the new LRTD/TD(1/8 MOA) and new LRMD/CM, which is .1 MRAD. Both have the new exposed tactical-style turrets.

SIIB has ZACT-7 Revcoat, which is superior 7 layer lens coatings= higher light transmission.

New products available through spring.
 
Mammoth said:
What's the actual difference between the SII and SII Big Sky 36x scopes? Different optical designs, coatings, something else?
Click to expand...

Big sky uses all new tech. Field of view is wider, eye relief longer, turrets has a normal markings and 10 mins per rev (SII has 7.5 mins per rev - don't ask I have no idea why). Better coatings for a brighter clearer image.

The SII is of the same gen as the Weaver 36X. Both fine scopes but for a bit more money, you end up with a superior scope. Tried all three, now use the SIIB 36X.

Jerry
 
308BAR said:
Jerry does the 8-32 w/ 1/8 clicks only in the TD or does the FCH have the 1/8 also? On Sightron's website the FCH in the 8-32 shows it as being 1/4.

Also does the TD obscure the 300m V or become a obstruction as you go further out? Is FCH prefered more by F-Class shooters?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Only the LRTD/TD has the 1/8 min clicks. I consider that imperative for F class shooting otherwise, you can't dial in small enough corrections for conditions with 1/4 min clicks.

The TD is very small and will not obscure the V bull. It is the traditional itty bitty dot.

Both the TD and FCH has their users. I use the FCH because I prefer to hold off for rapid wind changes vs dialing. Those that use the TD tend to dial for corrections and hold center target.

They both work and you choose the reticle that fits your shooting style.

Jerry
 
Now if only Sightron would install target turrets on their lower powered, lighter weight scopes...

I don't own any Sightron products currently, but I'd probably own more than a couple if this was an option.
 
FTRRookie said:
Out of curiosity, can anyone comment on whether I'd need a 20MOA base to get out to 1000y, and whether it will prevent me from zeroing at 100y? Finding one in a LH version has been a little tricky, so if I can avoid it I think I'd prefer that.

If it matters I'm just getting in to hand loading, and the two loads I'm planning on starting with are 168 SMKs or 167 Scenars, Lapua Brass, and Varget or VV N140. My barrel is a factory heavy 26" with a 1 in 12 twist. I haven't quite figured out how all the math works out with twist, velocities, and BC, etc., but I was advised that those loads would be a great place to start for my barrel. Any suggestions here would also be appreciated!

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

If your going to shot F class out to 1000y u won't be able to use either 167 or 168 with any amount of sucess. Their BC is too low vs the velocity that you can achieve with them.

You have currently 3 weight classes that are used for the f class game.

155's lapua, Berger, Sierra and Hornady

185-190 Berger, Sierra (I didn't include the 175's as the 155's have similar or better BC and can run much faster then the 175 offering.)

208 -210 Hornady, Berger, (and a promising Canadian bullet from Matrix)
for a frame of reference u need to be able to stay above subsonic out to 1000y approx 1200fps
JBM has a great program which allows you to run numbers as a starting point.
http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml

Here is an article on bullets that u may find interesting.
http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/Issues/issues html/September 2010/index.html

Please note F class shoot on a .5 bull (1/2 Moa) you need to be able to develope a load that can shoot under 1/2 inch at 100 to be competitive.

As for the 20 MOA rail you will need to find out the specs on your scope to determine the min rail slope. Peter Dobson or Mystic should have the spec on the Sightron if your leaning that way...You will also need to take into consideration the bullet weight. 155's shoot alot flatter then 208's do and need far less elevation.

Good Luck tells us what you decide on and we hope to see u at the matches...

Trevor
 
Thanks Trevor.

I had another chance to look at a Sightron scope over the weekend, and I'm almost certain that's what I'm going to get. Now I just have to keep an eye open for a used SIII 8x32 FCH, or wait until I can buy a new one from Peter at Hirsch or Mystic. At Peter's suggestion I picked up a 20MOA Nightforce base to go along with some brass and bullets, so I'm covered there.

I also started doing some load development this week with 155 Scenars, CCI BR2s, and Varget. I used the JBM site to figure out that I'll need around 2850 fps of MV to stay above Mach 1.2 at 1K, and it looked like I should be able to do that with somewhere around 46-47 grains of Varget. The trouble that I've found is that my Speer manual doesn't give me a recommendation for 155gr anything, and Lapua doesn't publish any recommendations for non-VV powders that I could find. Speer says to start at 45gr Varget for their 150s, so I figured I'd be safe starting at 44 for the 155s. If someone has any advice on safe starting points I'd certainly appreciate it!
 
In .308 Win with GB491 Lapua bullet and brass, 44 grains of Varget to start is fine and after you have fired and chronographed that load, you should move up in .5 grain increments. Many have 10-20 rounds of each increment and test for grouping and SD as they move up. Keep in mind temperature, as hotter means more pressure. Don't forget to try different OALs, as each gun may provide different best results and OAL is important to accuracy.

Regards,

Peter
 
FTRRookie said:
I also started doing some load development this week with 155 Scenars, CCI BR2s, and Varget. I used the JBM site to figure out that I'll need around 2850 fps of MV to stay above Mach 1.2 at 1K, and it looked like I should be able to do that with somewhere around 46-47 grains of Varget. The trouble that I've found is that my Speer manual doesn't give me a recommendation for 155gr anything, and Lapua doesn't publish any recommendations for non-VV powders that I could find. Speer says to start at 45gr Varget for their 150s, so I figured I'd be safe starting at 44 for the 155s. If someone has any advice on safe starting points I'd certainly appreciate it!
Click to expand...

I'm using the same bullet with the same powder, except my cases are the Lapua small primer Palma type. I'm getting 2900 fps with 47.2 gr of powder. I think starting at 44 gr would be a waste of bullets; start at 46.5 .
 
Last edited:
DrXenon said:
I'm using the same bullet with the same powder, except my cases are the Lapua small primer Scenar type. I'm getting 2900 fps with 47.2 gr of powder. I think starting at 44 gr would be a waste of bullets; start at 46.5 .
Click to expand...

You are using small primer cases. Most would use large primer cases. 44 grains is a good starting point for the majority.

NormB
 
If you are really on a budget go with the 36 c brd sightron or weaver t-36 as minimum usable scope for f-class. Everything cost money, quality glass cost money, variable power cost money, side parrallax cost money. So in my opinion when a scope is at a low price point something has to give. If it has a side parrallax, and variable power and a low price the manuafacturer had to spend less on the glass.

So for 400-500 these are pretty much the only decent options.

If you are willing to pay more you will get a bit more.
 
NormB said:
You are using small primer cases. Most would use large primer cases. 44 grains is a good starting point for the majority.

NormB
Click to expand...

I'm not sure the small primer makes that much of a difference to muzzle velocity. You're igniting the same amount of powder, after all. Even when I was using large primer cases, I was over 47 gr. There is absolutely no possibility of getting to his target MV with anything close to 44 gr of Varget (which is a slow powder), so why even try?

In general, unless you're shooting a gun that was made for the Boer war, you start at the max load less a grain or so and look for pressure signs as you go up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom