FSN-01K Range Review - Pics & Video

Curtton said:
ridgearms : what about using a drill press and drilling a hole for the FH set screw?
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That is a good idea. I would need to thread the hole too. If there is a common thread for a screw that would work I could use that. I have never done such a thing before though.
 
You wouldn't really need to thread the hole. It just give the set screw somewhere to extend into for more mechanical "bite". That and Loc-tite on the set screw should do the job.
 
ridgearms said:
That is a good idea. I would need to thread the hole too. If there is a common thread for a screw that would work I could use that. I have never done such a thing before though.
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no, dont need thread/tap the hole, just drill a hole the size as the set screw on the FH and go only 2mm deep .
 
I like where you guys are headed with this. A few questions.

Should I use loctite if I think this would be my go to brake? The brake is stainless but the barrel and threads are not so would rust not form on the barrel threads after shooting?

When you say go 2mm deep do you mean when tightening the set screw?

I will need to find somewhere to have my brake drilled as I only have a hand drill. Also, I guess I should have a spot for the detent on my 858 milled into the fsn brake. I am sure it would be more fun, affordable and rewarding to do it myself but perhaps I can take it to dlask. They are close to my work.
 
ridgearms said:
Should I use loctite if I think this would be my go to brake? The brake is stainless but the barrel and threads are not so would rust not form on the barrel threads after shooting?

When you say go 2mm deep do you mean when tightening the set screw?

I will need to find somewhere to have my brake drilled as I only have a hand drill. Also, I guess I should have a spot for the detent on my 858 milled into the fsn brake. I am sure it would be more fun, affordable and rewarding to do it myself but perhaps I can take it to dlask. They are close to my work.
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it would be a good idea not to loctite your FH/brake so you can clean.

about the FSN FH, i looked at mine and i realized its near the muzzle so there is no need to drill , i used a dremel and cut a tiny grove and the set screw went in tighter .

about the NEA brake , im guessing it doesnt have a set screw so i think taking it to dlask would be a good idea.
 
clob, this is no room for washer.

ridgearms, you did turn the FH all the way in ? you might have to use a thin metal , put it thru the slots and turn till the FH reaches the shoulder of the barrel.
 
I tightened it to the max if that is what you mean. It also seems like you tried a washer. I haven't any so I didn't try one. I wonder where a washer thin enough can be found. The best option seems to be a good dose of filing and a set screw for the NEA brake.
 
ridgearms said:
I tightened it to the max if that is what you mean. It also seems like you tried a washer. I haven't any so I didn't try one. I wonder where a washer thin enough can be found. The best option seems to be a good dose of filing and a set screw for the NEA brake.
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can you post a pic to show the gap? mine went all the way in . try cleaning the threads with a cleaning brass brush, both inside and outside threads.
 
TO the OP: Here's a post by Dr. Lector in a thread in black rifles that may give you some help with your muzzle device issue.

Dr.Lector said:
A jam nut requires more thread length than a crush washer.
Consequently, there is less thread left for the muzzle device.

Also, the jam nut will put a lot more stress on the thread.



So, if there is a shoulder behind the thread and the thread length is
more or less mil-spec (650), use a crush washer.
If there is no shoulder because the barrel is pencil-thin (Tavor),
then use a jam nut if you have enough extra thread length.
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Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the help. I am not home so I couldnt get pics. There is an obvious shoulder from the pic in the first page. The brake tightens all the way up to the shoulder but just doesn't index. Removing material would be the best way In my book and perhaps a crush washer just for more tension so it wouldn't jar loose while shooting. Removing for cleaning is the biggest hindrance in attaching brakes on these rifles.
 
P1090957.jpg


this is what my FH looks like .
 
mine is much the same. Locks up just where its supposed to. Same with the NEA. I just have to get the side ports facing out and the top ports all facing straight up. That's my issue. If this weekend goes right I will get it out with the NEA brake to see how I like it. I will probably just try to file it down. No time to go to dlask right now.
 
Curtton said:
you losing me, there is no straight up on the FSH FH , its a "X" pattern flash.
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lol. I know. I mentioned my FSN brake looks the same and tightens the same. Then I mentioned the NEA brake tightening up to the shoulder just fine. The ports I am referring to are the NEA ports. My NEA brake doesn't index when fully tightened.
 
ridgearms said:
lol. I know. I mentioned my FSN brake looks the same and tightens the same. Then I mentioned the NEA brake tightening up to the shoulder just fine. The ports I am referring to are the NEA ports. My NEA brake doesn't index when fully tightened.
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OIC, so the FSN HD is fine .

i just made the grove deeper on the barrel for the set screw would tighten better.
 
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