1954 Russian SKS -- laminate stock refinished in tung oil

The Kurgan

The Kurgan

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As I am still waiting for the metal bits to arrive from Barret Arms (Murdoc), I decided to post a few more photos of my lonely refinished laminate stock.

The stock was chemically stripped of its ugly, paint brush bristle embedded "arsenal refurb" shellac coat, polished with 00, then 0000 steel wool, and finished in 4-5 coats of tung oil.

The natural colours of the arctic birch laminate stock are quite striking. Of course, that's a matter of opinion. :)

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Very nice, I did the same to my 1950 lammy (and to my 1944 Izzy M44 as well), but I used multiple coats of TruOil. (looks very similar)



 
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looks good. you can see how the sks laminated stocks are like plywood. each layer has the grain running perpendicular to the last. beautiful job man.
 
How exactly did you do the chemical stripping?

Did you need to soak it in tub full of solvent? Or do you just wipe on a bit of solvent, then wipe it off with a rag?

Did you do it inside, or outdoors? Are the fumes bad, or really bad?

Does the stock still smell like chemicals after you are finished?

I think a lot of people would love to do something like you've done. But working with solvents can be intimidating if you aren't sure what you are doing.
 
You apply the chemical with a paint brush or a foam brush. It has a gel like consistency. I did mine on an old piece of plywood in my garage. It stinks, but I suppose you could do it in your basement. It only needs to sit on the stock for 15 to 20 minutes. This isn't going to kill you. ;)

***USE GENEROUS PORTIONS OF STRIPPER***

It is handy to have a wood scrapper to help remove the remains of the finish which becomes gooy, but you can simply scrub it off with a few rags, or with 00 steel wool.

Once the finish is off, I like to "clean" the wood with more 00 steel wool, followed by a light sanding, and then finishing again with 0000 steel wool.

The final product is a perfectly new, raw finish ready for oiling.
 
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Beautiful work Kurgan.
I like how you took the time to finish the nooks and crannies on the stock.

I just stripped the original finish off both my 49 and 50 SKS tonight, and am already impressed with what I see.

Hopefully they will turn out as your's did.:confused:
 
7mmlefty said:
Beautiful work Kurgan.
I like how you took the time to finish the nooks and crannies on the stock.

I just stripped the original finish off both my 49 and 50 SKS tonight, and am already impressed with what I see.

Hopefully they will turn out as your's did.:confused:
Click to expand...

Thanks. Just take your time and the results will be night and day.
Don't be affraid to give it a light sanding, and use the opportunity to smoothen out the mag well area, etc. I personally prefer the natural colours of the wood, but if you want you can add a reddish brown stain to darken up the wood.
 
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One question to 7mmlefty and The Kurgan.

Did you (or are you), going to remove the upper hand guard from the gas cylinder? I tried getting that tapered rivet/pin out and she won't move.
 
trubluscrew said:
One question to 7mmlefty and The Kurgan.

Did you (or are you), going to remove the upper hand guard from the gas cylinder? I tried getting that tapered rivet/pin out and she won't move.
Click to expand...

To be honest, its worth the work to remove that damn pin, but be careful or you'll crack the handguard wood. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, however, then don't bother, as it can be a real ##### on some SKS's.

Removing the handguard makes refinishing so much easier, and when it comes time to clean the gas tube, you can easily remove the wood. That is because I replaced the factory pins with simple roll pins. They don't have to fit that snuggly, as they hold in place when the handguard/gas tube assembly is re-attached to the rifle.

Now, when I'm done shooting, I put every loose metal part (except barreled action of course) in my Lyman ultra sonic case cleaner for 1 to 2 hours. When done, I quickly wipe it all down and give it a quick coat of light oil. No more fuss.

This is the handguard on my '54 after it was stripped and cleaned, but before it was oiled. You will notice the cut of roll pin that I used to replace the factory nuisance pin:
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Just after refinishing:
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After a few months the tung finish nicely darkens/ages (I put it on my '52 SKS in this photo):
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trubluscrew said:
One question to 7mmlefty and The Kurgan.

Did you (or are you), going to remove the upper hand guard from the gas cylinder? I tried getting that tapered rivet/pin out and she won't move.
Click to expand...

No I didn't, I just mushed the stripper around the wood, and scrubed it off, and there wasnt the coating on it, like there was on the stock so not sure if its needed.
But now that you guys mention it... I'll take a better look in the morning.

I didnt know there was a pin for removal of the hand guard, but it does make sense.:)
 
Just finished the final sanding and applied the first coat (of five) of tung oil.

The difference is night and day... or ugly to outstanding.:D

I sure hope the finish makes the rifles shoot more accurate, they will certainly woo the targets.:)

Thanks TK
 
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