303 British No. 4 Mark 1, Sporterized, Disassembly help please

.303

.303

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I am going to refinish the stock on the old girl and was doing ok until I came across this screw... (in the stock above trigger)

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh127/HideOutside/Dads Rifle/DSC_1522.jpg

I was doing ok, until i though it was stripped as it kept turning and turning. After much aggrevation and trying to figure out how to gently get out a stripped screw, I found, through the grime on the other side.....

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh127/HideOutside/Dads Rifle/DSC_1523.jpg

The I realized that the metal piece that surrounds the screw was turning as well, and i saw 2 notches on either side.

Is there a certain type of tool I need to get this out? I tried with some minor damage to the wood....:mad: minor chip (please don't even go there..)

Any info would help, pictures would be great....thanks guys/gals.
 
.303 said:
Ok...thanks...

But, how do i take the stock off? Short of beating it over a rock. there is no movement forward.....
Click to expand...

You already removed the trigger guard, which is if is a sporter stock is all that hold the stock on. The stock should be removed with a straight, even pull down (both the front and rear should be pulled evenly, not pulling on one side only). It way be a little stiff (which is good) so a little force may be needed.
 
When you remove the stock DO NOT lever it out by pulling down on the front of the stock. If it's tight, which it should be, tap it out gently on either side of the action. Otherwise you will damage the draws.
 
You will have to remove that screw to remove the forend. Your rifle had a block of steel brazed on the front of the butt socket when given a Factory Thorough Repair in 1953. The trigger was then mounted on the bottom of that block rather than on the trigger guard where it had been before. You have the Mk2 type of forend. The screw should be tightened to snug the ends of the forend up against the sides of that steel block. You'll see when you get it off.

Get an old screwdriver and notch it out on the edge of a steel cut off bonded fibre blade, then grind the two forks you have created to fit the slots in the round nut. Should take all of two minutes to make. Or use a hacksaw or the edge of a flat file or both.

Again, you will have to remove the screw before removing the forend.
 
RRCo. said:
You will have to remove that screw to remove the forend. Your rifle had a block of steel brazed on the front of the butt socket when given a Factory Thorough Repair in 1953. The trigger was then mounted on the bottom of that block rather than on the trigger guard where it had been before. You have the Mk2 type of forend. The screw should be tightened to snug the ends of the forend up against the sides of that steel block. You'll see when you get it off.

Get an old screwdriver and notch it out on the edge of a steel cut off bonded fibre blade, then grind the two forks you have created to fit the slots in the round nut. Should take all of two minutes to make. Or use a hacksaw or the edge of a flat file or both.

Again, you will have to remove the screw before removing the forend.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that is the conclusion I came to about the screw because it will not budge past 1/4" of movement....
 
TCBF said:
- Long screwdrivers available at Canadian Tire, etc.
Click to expand...

Funny enough I found a pack of new screwdrivers that was given to me as a gift that I had forgot about...(we've moved a few times in the last few years and never managed to get them out)....they were the master craft ones....that flathead in there is huge.

I've managed to get the stock apart and stripped and sanded. Now just have to deal with a minor crack and away we go.

On a side note, the minor dent I put it while trying to get it apart came out with a nice steam! :)
 
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