electric motor for brass tumbler, what switch?

mrq5daw

mrq5daw

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Oakville, Ontario
Hi I have a motor, I think it is from HVAC, given to me by a friend and would like to use it to make a brass tumbler, I would like to buy a switch for it (on and off with speed selector) and I do not know what to buy and where to buy , color of wires as follow,
white, black,yellow,blue,orange and red..there is already capacitor attached to it.
here is what is written on the template;

1/10 HP 1075 RPM/5 SPEED
115V 8HZ 1.7A 8P 1PH

thank's
 
Or you COULD spend the 50 to 100 bucks and buy a tumbler?
Cheap cheap cheap,cheap cheap cheap,cheap cheap cheap! (To the tune of the song...)


valmet762 said:
i used a light dimmer switch for mine... i used an old weed wacker ac motor... switch is 8 or 9 bucks at home depot.
Click to expand...
 
Barry F said:
Or you COULD spend the 50 to 100 bucks and buy a tumbler?
Cheap cheap cheap,cheap cheap cheap,cheap cheap cheap! (To the tune of the song...)
Click to expand...

A Cheap tumbler won't do 1000+ pieces at a time.
Mine does.
Taggart1500baseunit.jpg

Taggart1500parts.jpg

 
If you had the diagram from where it was originally installed it would help. 8 Hz does not make sense nor does 8P. You need a selector switch to the various leads to change rpms. A proper disgram is needed. Just buy a vibrator cleaner and enjoy.
 
Typically with furnace type motors the white wire will be the common (neutral).

Blue and black are usually high speeds. (A/C speed)
Red is usually low speed. (heating speed)
Orange/yellow are likely middle speeds.

The wiring is typically white to neutral, hot will go to one of the coloured wires at a time for each speed. To test your motor speeds to confirm which is which connect neutral to white and hot to the desired colored wire while keeping the other wires isolated from each other/any grounded object/yourself. The loose wires will be live when power is run to one of the motor speeds.


You would need a single pole/ 5 throw switch if you wanted to access all of the speeds to switch your power feed to each of the individual speed wires at a time. You might find such a switch at an electrical supplier but it might not be easy. Alternately a single pole triple throw switch might be easier to find and give you a choice of three speeds off of one switch. You might be better off trying each of the speeds with your build and just using the one that suits your use best. You could also use multiple single pole / double throw switches in a series/parallel circuit to get all the speeds using a few switches that are easy to find at any supplier (home depot).

HTH
 
mrq5daw said:
Dinsdale, you got the point...that is what I am planning to achieve..1000 per load? ummmmmm..:stirthepot2:
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Hey, I have a similar setup and can run 1500+ 9mm cases at a time in my 5 gallon pail/tumbler powered by a 1/2hp blower motor without it breaking a sweat.

MB

DSCN0042.jpg


The only switch I run is a timer...
 
Last edited:
Now THAT's a great idea!! A square bucket!! What is the round thing you put that bucket into? I've got two motors and I failed mainly because I could not get the reduction gears required and/or the large pulley.

What did you guys use?

I am now currently experimenting with using a couple of very powerful magnets and stainless steel media. The idea being that I stand the motor upright, attach magnets to a disc (this is the last thing that I need to get) that is itself attached to the motor somehow. NO need for reduction gears etc, the pins spin at whatever speed the motor spins...the faster the better and give a deep clean/polish to the brass.

That's the plan anyway.

My original plan was just like you guys things. Except that the reduction gears and pulleys scuttled those plans.
 
OEM said:
Now THAT's a great idea!! A square bucket!! What is the round thing you put that bucket into? I've got two motors and I failed mainly because I could not get the reduction gears required and/or the large pulley.

What did you guys use?

I am now currently experimenting with using a couple of very powerful magnets and stainless steel media. The idea being that I stand the motor upright, attach magnets to a disc (this is the last thing that I need to get) that is itself attached to the motor somehow. NO need for reduction gears etc, the pins spin at whatever speed the motor spins...the faster the better and give a deep clean/polish to the brass.

That's the plan anyway.

My original plan was just like you guys things. Except that the reduction gears and pulleys scuttled those plans.
Click to expand...

The drum has to turn slow. At high(er) speed everything would be held out by centrifigal ? speed and nothing would tumble.
 
OEM said:
Now THAT's a great idea!! A square bucket!! What is the round thing you put that bucket into? I've got two motors and I failed mainly because I could not get the reduction gears required and/or the large pulley.
Click to expand...

It's two pieces of 5/8" MDF cut to shape and screwed to the lips of the bucket. My gear reduction mostly comes from the fact that my rollers are 3/8" round bar stock spinning a 14" diameter cylinder. The motor is located in the base and the shaft runs out the back. I have a ~1.5" motor pulley driving a ~2" pulley on the first roller so I do get a small drive reduction from the 1725 rpm motor speed down to around 1300 rpm and the small roller driving the big drum equals around 34 rpm.

Here you can see the back side...

DSCN0043.jpg


The chain transfers power to the other roller so it helps distribute wear between the rollers/bin and ensured the bin spins regardless of how heavy it is loaded.

Click the pic to see it in action...


HTH
MB

P.S. The duct tape around the lid is to fully seal it... My lid only clips on two sides and the other sides leak a bit if not sealed up... I have yet to address the problem as duct tape works fine when I only have to tumble my brass once in a long while due to the large batch size.
 
Thanks for the explanation Milton...that's a really nice setup that looks quite bulletproof. Bruce, the thing that works with the centrifugal cleaner is the media. Its supposed to go fast and get into every crevice. I'm not entirely sure if it works myself, but here's a video of a typical setup.
[youtube]3_FpiTzVYP8[/youtube]
 
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