Resistance in closing bolt

StevieK

Regular
Rating - 100%
83   0   0
Location
Hamilton, ont
I just recently picked up a used Rem 700 sps in 223. I haven't had a chance to get to the range or reload for this calibre yet. I picked up a few boxes of really cheap MFS steel cased FMJ rounds. When I tried chambering them the bolt takes an incredible amount of force to close. When I finally do get it closed it extracts the round fine, but there seems to be scraping marks on the cartridge. I am assuming this is caused because the steel case is slightly too big, and that's what I get from using really cheap ammunition. Just wanting to confirm this. I can chamber empty once fired brass just fine (not fired from this gun). I thought that the OAL may be too long, but that would not account for the marks on the cartridges, and I have never had a length problem with factory loaded brass. Just making sure it is a problem with the cheap ammo and not the chamber of my rifle
 
if it chamers once fired from a complely differnt gun just fine, but scrapes the steel cased stuff, grab your callipers (im assuming u have them if u load) and messer the OD of the once fired vs the steel cased, id assume if there was a problem with your chamber, it would mark up the brass as well, especially if it came from a different gun
 
I just recently picked up a used Rem 700 sps in 223. I haven't had a chance to get to the range or reload for this calibre yet. I picked up a few boxes of really cheap MFS steel cased FMJ rounds. When I tried chambering them the bolt takes an incredible amount of force to close. When I finally do get it closed it extracts the round fine, but there seems to be scraping marks on the cartridge. I am assuming this is caused because the steel case is slightly too big, and that's what I get from using really cheap ammunition. Just wanting to confirm this. I can chamber empty once fired brass just fine (not fired from this gun). I thought that the OAL may be too long, but that would not account for the marks on the cartridges, and I have never had a length problem with factory loaded brass. Just making sure it is a problem with the cheap ammo and not the chamber of my rifle

Probably the ammo. Do the test for the COAL for the gun then compare to the factory stuff.
 
I too have an SPS Varmint in .223 that has been doing this since day one with factory ammo and my reloads. I even sent it in to Gravel (Remington warranty centre) to have them take a look at it. It was slightly better when it came back, though I have no idea what they did as no explanation was given.

The odd thing is, I noticed on the last range session that it would sometimes chamber smoothly (only very little resistance), and other times I would have to really put some pressure on the bolt to get it to lock down, all while using the same ammo (factory and handloads). It's been a thorn in my backside with this gun for a while, but I'm starting to just learn to live with it as it shoots great otherwise.
 
You cant fire surplus 5.56 military amo in a 223 it is a bit longer will not fit.
You can fire 223 in a 5.56 military chambering but you cant fire 5.56 in a 223 chambering.
 
You cant fire surplus 5.56 military amo in a 223 it is a bit longer will not fit.
You can fire 223 in a 5.56 military chambering but you cant fire 5.56 in a 223 chambering.

MFS is not surplus just steel cased cheap ammo.

Might be and issue with OAL and a short chamber.
If you extract an unfired round is there any marks on the bullet from the rifling?
 
Try loading the bullets in the magazine first and then chambering them. If the gun is a controlled feed(meaning they should be loaded from the mag) then loading them one at a time,they will be hard to chamber. If it is a" push feed" then you may have a problem with the gun.
 
+2 on using your mic to see the COAL. I would check every measurement. You could also "paint" the whole bullet with a black sharpie. That will give you a pretty good idea where the contact points are. Just cause it's "factory" ammo doesn't mean that someone didn't screw something up and pop the shoulders out of whack.
 
Can I ask a question? You didn't make it to the range but you still chambered a live round? Did you do this in your dwelling? I have a rule of thumb......live rounds are only to be chambered in an appropriate place (i.e. at the range, in the bush hunting, etc.). What would of your done if that bolt did not open? You would of been stuck with a live round in the chamber and in the situation of how to legally and safely transport this firearm to get the issue dealt with. I once had a live round in the chamber and the bolt would not open. I was at the range, so I just blasted the round off and then removed the case at home.

I'm not sure how many people out there in CGN land do (or not do) this on a regular basis, so I would like to hear back on this forum about what your live round "chambering habits" are.
For me at home, the only thing I will do is put a case with only a live primer in the chamber (no powder or projectile) and close the bolt.

I just recently picked up a used Rem 700 sps in 223. I haven't had a chance to get to the range or reload for this calibre yet. I picked up a few boxes of really cheap MFS steel cased FMJ rounds. When I tried chambering them the bolt takes an incredible amount of force to close. When I finally do get it closed it extracts the round fine, but there seems to be scraping marks on the cartridge.
 
I would imagine that the percentage of CGN members who have NEVER loaded a live round in a rifle at home would be fairly low. It isn't a safe practice but at times it just seems like the right thing to do.
 
I have had this same problem with my sps varmint in 204. I took out the extractor and hone it with a EZE-LAP diamond sharpener. It worked fine after that no marking on the brass and the bolt open and closed smooth with new and fired brass.
 
You cant fire surplus 5.56 military amo in a 223 it is a bit longer will not fit.
You can fire 223 in a 5.56 military chambering but you cant fire 5.56 in a 223 chambering.

Funny, I fire 5.56 in my .223 all the time and have never had a problem.
 
I have the .308win R700 5R
Chamber space would allow for a 2.898 OAL.
SAMMI Max is 2.800

Rem does this specifically so that all your factory stuff would work. (Also at 2.898 it wont fit in the internal Mag)

I am not sure if the .223 ver is like this too..... but I would imagine so.....
I just thought I would throw this out there to maybe take away one of your doubts.

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Cartridge overall length is only relevant to the magazine, whether the rifle will be a repeater or a single shot.
There are two lengths relevant to chambering - the length from the cartridge base to the spot on the ogive of the bullet which will contact the leade at some point, and, the case length. If the case length is excessive, the case make contact with the cahmber. This is not a good thing, can spike pressure. It the bullet ogive is making hard contact with the leade, this can result in various things, from hard chambering to increased pressure to increased accuracy. The chance of a factory round contacting the leade in a factory chamber is remote.
If the extractor is not snapping over the rim easiy, this could cause hard chambering.
If the ejector plunger is stiff, this too could affect chambering.
There would be no harm in checking the rifle with headspace gauges.
Incidentally, a way of reducing the risk of chambering a live round with minimal risk of a discharge is to remove the entire striker assembly. Doesn't make it a good practice, but does reduce risk.
 
I had a marking issue with my "Remington" M700 .300 WSM and tough bolt closure as well with Federal Factory PSPS. Sent it to W.R. Longs (a registered Remington gunsmith at the time - GRAVEL seems to be the only only on today), and he "cleaned up the chamber" - it had machining marks/tooling marks. This problem was diagnosoed as being an asethetic issue - didn't warrent a replacement.

As for the tough bolt closure, I was simply told not to use Federal ammo - which I thought was a peculiar suggestion, that is UNTIL I got a second Remington M700 .300 WSM and had the same bolt closure issue with Federal ammo (no issues with Winchester factory ammo). With the help of an RCBS precision MIC, I have since determined that the "headspacing" of both my Remington Chambers were under the minimum SAAMI SPECS (but still safe), and that some of the Federal rounds (those that caused problems with bolt closure) were at or just .001" below the minimum SAAMI spec. In short, your bolt closure issues may due to factory rounds that are at or slightly larger than the specs for your chamber. To find out, measure the headspace of a 2x fired but unsized piece of brass fired in the rifle of concern (2x fired to ensure it more accurately reflects your rifle's chamber headspace) AND the headspace of the factory ammo that is giving the bolt closure (must be the ammo giving you the issues - I've found that the headspace between the Federal ammo was incosistent in the SAME box of factory federal ammo checked - not all the ammo from the same box gave bolt closure issues). I am betting that headspace of your factory ammo will be at or slightly bigger than your chamber.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom