Need help with stuck bullet in Winnipeg!

jawsman

jawsman

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G'day

I have a 340gr 454 Casull bullet lodged in my new Super Redhawk. It's stuck about 1" into the barrel (from the rear)

Looks like I had some contamination somewhere and the powder did not ignite.

I went to Home depot and picked up a hardwood dowl, and cut it down to be about 2 inches longer than the barrel (7.5")

Used it to try and dislodge the bullet, and it broke. Luckily for me at the muzzle, so I easily got it all out. (No damage to the barrel)

Now onto plan "B"

I need a 3/8" or 7/16" piece of solid brass about 12" long to use as a punch to push this troublesome bullet out of the barrel.

Can anyone point me in the direction of someone that can sell me/make me the piece of brass I need?

Struck out at both Home Depot and Princess Auto this morning.

Suggestions??????????

Thanks in advance!
 
Some Canadian Tire stores stock small amounts of rod ... last SS rod I needed, I bought from a hobby (RC & model) store. Good luck!
 
blacksmithden said:
If you're careful and it's a cast bullet, or even a jacketed soft point, you can use one section of a cleaning rod. Put the female threaded end on top of the center of the bullet and tap it with a hammer to get the rod sunk into it a bit. Then give it a good wack or two.
Click to expand...

good advice, but first wrap a layer or two of electrical tape around it to help centre it in the bore better. Then whack it.
 
It's a Frontier Bullet, Hard Cast Copper Plated. It's being a real problem. This is my frst revolver in more than 20 years and my first stuck bullet, so I'm no doubt being EXTRA cautious trying to remove the bullet.

Thanks for the advice, keep them coming......
 
Put some Kroil or other penetrating oil down the bore on both sides of the bullet before you start pounding, let it do it's work.....Ben
I'm sending you some nice bullets on Monday!!
 
Get your leftover dowel, wrap it with masking tape until it's snug in the barrel. Get out the grease gun and put a good 1-2" of grease in front of the bullet, insert the dowel, clamp the gun solidly in a wood-jawed vice and give it an allmighty SMACK with a 5 lb sledge.

This is known as "Hydraulic-ing" out a bullet, and it works very well.
 
forget drilling- your drill won't be long enough, and you can't get a clear shot at it anyway- best bet( and i've done this on a 44 mag redhawk- piece of brass rod 7/16ths diameter and a hammer- small hammer, and tap it out - one of this whonking the heck out of it- the 7/16s mikes out at.437 so you have enough to give one wrap of electrical tape in a couple of places- secure the revolver, open the cylinder, run the brass rod in from the muzzle end, and tap it free- i've done this AT THE RANGE- and only use a rod that's about 3 inches longer than your barrel for maximum effect- the reason you open the cylinder is so you don't tap the bullet back into the cylinder- you can clear that in a similar fashion if need be- they call it a "clearing rod" for just that reason- i got mine at canadian tire-as welding rod or feed rod acklands or any welding shop should have them-- i normally carry 2- one in 3/8ths for the 44 ( yea, it's a little sloppy) and one in 5/16 for the 9mm,38/357 crowd
 
We have already had one long thread about using a wood dowel, and sticking the dowel and having great difficulties in getting it out.
You do not need to get a brass rod.
You should not use your cleaning rod, unless you don't plan to use it as a cleaning rod any longer (you might damage the threads).
Get a 1/4 or 3/8 inch steel rod from Canadian Tire and cut it to a couple of inches over barrel length. Wrap duct tape, or electrical tape, at a couple of spots around the steel rod until the wrapping is almost at groove diameter (not critical). One sport an inch back from the bullet hitting end, and then every 2 or 3 inches. This way the steel rod is always centred in the barrel and can never touch the barrel. As suggested, use some oil and then slide your rod into the barrel and tap away (you are not trying to drive 6 inch nails).
Use brass if you want, but not necessary.
Then, figure out exactly how you ended up with a squib load. 'contamination' is the least likely reason.
 
Al-Sway said:
We have already had one long thread about using a wood dowel, and sticking the dowel and having great difficulties in getting it out.
You do not need to get a brass rod.
You should not use your cleaning rod, unless you don't plan to use it as a cleaning rod any longer (you might damage the threads).
Get a 1/4 or 3/8 inch steel rod from Canadian Tire and cut it to a couple of inches over barrel length. Wrap duct tape, or electrical tape, at a couple of spots around the steel rod until the wrapping is almost at groove diameter (not critical). One sport an inch back from the bullet hitting end, and then every 2 or 3 inches. This way the steel rod is always centred in the barrel and can never touch the barrel. As suggested, use some oil and then slide your rod into the barrel and tap away (you are not trying to drive 6 inch nails).
Use brass if you want, but not necessary.
Then, figure out exactly how you ended up with a squib load. 'contamination' is the least likely reason.
Click to expand...

- you want a rod that closely matches your bore diameter, i've seen a 1/4 inch steel rod punch right through a hollowpoint 44 , leaving a worse mess than before- you want as much contact as possible across the front of the bullet- we had to wind that rod out with a pair of pliers, then go back in with the 3/8s- but since we're talking 454 here-7/16ths and i'd be looking at a no-powder situation before contamination-
 
With the H110 powder your using it might be time to switch to magnum primers!! Or switch powders to something like Unique that goes off every time.
 
tigrr said:
With the H110 powder your using it might be time to switch to magnum primers!! Or switch powders to something like Unique that goes off every time.
Click to expand...

with clouds of smoke that take years to dissipate- there's nothing wrong with the powder, it's a SQUIB, plain and simple
 
In a pinch, I've used a long philips screwdriver wrapped in tape. The point of the screwdriver digs into the bullet, or in the case of a HP bullet,it fits int he hollow point...Teh screwdriver wont' break, either.

Use a small sledge (or even choke up on a big sledge. Using a carpenters hammer or small ball peen means you have to whack hard and often, which isn't good. The sledge will drive it out with a gentle whack or three.
 
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