Cutting the barrel on a SKS?
- Thread starter sametwinnie
- Start date
I wondered about this as well as I want to make a project out of an sks...
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
LOL
Yep, that is one butt ugly SKS, so in the grand scheme of things, who really cares?
If it shoots well, good on bubba!
I did that. The accuracy is no worse, it's not a sniper rifle to start with anyway. But make sure you cut it 90deg. A friend of mine did it with his milling. I got him to cut the bayonet off as well.
No impact whatsoever on cycling, never got a problem after cutting it. Obviously make CERTAIN you do not cut it too short to keep it legal!
With a bit of paint, the final result is this:
ciao! Nic
No impact whatsoever on cycling, never got a problem after cutting it. Obviously make CERTAIN you do not cut it too short to keep it legal!
With a bit of paint, the final result is this:
ciao! Nic
Last edited:
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
I did that. The accuracy is no worse, it's not a sniper rifle to start with anyway. But make sure you cut it 90deg. and re-crown. A friend of mine did it with his milling. I got him to cut the bayonet off as well.
No impact whatsoever on cycling, never got a problem after cutting it. Obviously make CERTAIN you do not cut it to short to keep it legal!
With a bit of paint, the final result is this:
ciao! Nic
Wow, nice work.
I worked in a hard chrome plant for a coupple of years and he is correct it does not flake like bumper chrome but it is mutch harder than any cutting bit also mutch harder than the metal it's on,for best results you need to use a stone to grind it ,you could use the lathe to shape the end of the barrel but to get the best result on the crown I would use a grinder attachment clamped it the lathe to shape the crown this will give the best transition from the hard chrome to the steel of the barrel.you will need a diomand stone.the problem with a cutter even carbide is it will cut the metal easier than the chrome ,this will leave a step at the end of the chrome .
I would use a abrasive chop saw to do the cut
lathe with cutter to true the cut
grinder attachment in lathe for the crown work
my 2 cents Roger
looking good
hum, not exactly certain what you mean... It is a Yugo model. I cut the barrel at 18.5" (well more like 18.7" to be sure!). That happens to be just in front of the sight on a Yugo. The big metal part behind the sight used to hold the grenade launcher sight, which I also removed. Taking if out would have been more difficult and I decided to let it be.
I hope this answers your question, if not clarify a bit.
Nic
fat tony
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
That is not likely to be an issue. the bloody hole is huge to begin with, to ensure positive functioning in extreme conditions, making the SKS cycling violent to say the least. Edit: you could darned well almost hunt small game with the empty casings coming out of there.
The gas tube is not solid enough to mount a sight on IMO.
He mean moving back toward the gas tube,not mouting on it.
The trick to this one is: Remove lower (bayo) and upper (frontsight) pin.Then take a heat gun or a propane torch and heat the bayo/sight assy around the tube...at 250 F it comes off there rather easy (no hammer required)
Then you cut your barrel nice and straight by 1.5" and recrown it. After that you cut the bayo part off right behind the front sight (no need to be flush,you can leave 1/16 or less)
Heat the front sight up again and slip it back on...the key is to get it on straight,but even if you are a little off to the side,the front sight adjustment range will cover that.
Then run a same dia. drill trough the pin hole and put the pin back in
...now there is a 1/2" of barrel in front of the sight that can be threated or left or what else
And no worries about the gas pressure,it's overkill anyway,as for my gas tube...I have four (!) holes in mine,still cycles beautyful...first hole 1/8 from tube front.Easier on the whole system,plus won't spit emtys all over the place.
