10mm, Bluedot VS 800X

Rode

Rode

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
373   0   0
Location
Drayton Valley, Alberta
I have been using Bluedot for my 10mm reloads but keep hearing good things about 800X being a great choice for the 10mm too.

Please advise on any advantages or disadvantages to ether in the 10mm. E.g. Pressure spikes due to temperature, ECT.

I’m using 200gr XTP’s and don’t intend on loading a lighter bullet for my G20.
 
The biggest problem with 800-X is that it doesn't meter worth a s**t. If you need to push whatever weight bullet an extra 50-150 fps it will give it to you. Blue Dot is my go to powder for nearly everything but 135grn JHPs. I have also found it to be mostly temperature insensitive and very consistent.
 
I have used both for 10mm loading from 135gn to 190gn. I would not say that I have noticed a significant difference between the two. Both are capable powders when pushing the 10mm. I have pushed 800x beyond my comfort level with 135gn Nosler, although it took some doing. 800x does seem to react to warm temperatures when playing on the edge - stuck cases requiring gun disassembly on a warm/hot day. I have not pushed blue dot this far, so I do not have a fair comparison for you with respect to temperature spikes. I use 800x more often simply due to the fact that I have four times the volume of this powder compared to blue dot.

You are likely to find that the case powder capacity is exceeded when using heavier bullets before you get yourself in pressure trouble using either powder.

If you want to push the 10mm as far as you can, try VV N105. Win 572 (if you can find any) is another good choice, although it is dirty compared to others discussed here.
 
I've used Blue Dot in my S&W 1006 for so long and with such satisfying results, that I'm not even tempted to change. I also settled on 200 XTPs.

I did the "try everything available" trick years ago; Blue Dot was where everything fell into place for me - accuracy; velocity; consistency; clean burning; easy metering.
 
Unlike Blue Dot I individually weigh/load IMR800X in my 10mm's I do not trust metering it yes I learnt from experiencing pressure spikes.

Blue Dot is my go to powder as well but when I want the very top performance loads I can put together I grab IMR800X it is awesome...

Well worth the extra time I need to put these loads together.

CC
 
Camp Cook said:
Unlike Blue Dot I individually weigh/load IMR800X in my 10mm's I do not trust metering it yes I learnt from experiencing pressure spikes.

Blue Dot is my go to powder as well but when I want the very top performance loads I can put together I grab IMR800X it is awesome...

Well worth the extra time I need to put these loads together.

CC
Click to expand...

Ya, hand measuring 800X is a must. Not a plinking powder.
 
Are you guys pushing these hot loads through factory glock barrels. I'm about done with my powder and looking at alternatives. Is longshot worth considering? I'm shooting 180/200's from factory barrel. Did you find changing springs were required?
 
fuzzynuts54 said:
Are you guys pushing these hot loads through factory glock barrels. I'm about done with my powder and looking at alternatives. Is longshot worth considering? I'm shooting 180/200's from factory barrel. Did you find changing springs were required?
Click to expand...

IIRC Camp Cook had a pretty bad day as a result of an overcharge of Longshot. I use aftermarket barrels and springs. Brass life is pretty much indefinite, I lose a lot more than I throw out. When you are shooting the Nuke type stuff through a factory setup you will likely end up tossing a lot of your brass due to bulges, or, you may end up losing it because it was thrown into the next county:D.
 
Titegroup... and thanks to Gunner @ Armco my Delta is doing just fine again I am out a 6" Barsto barrel though...

What happened is when I first started using a progressive press RCBS Piggyback 11 I screwed up and missed that I did a double charge on a low power plinking load in other words guys do not use a power that will not spill over the case if you double charge it.

and no I have not screwed up again...

:)
 
Yah titegroup is what I've been using, I picked it up when I first got my 10 and loading equipment. Titegroup is too fast for any real performance. That big hunk of unsupported web has me a little leary about putting any fullhouse rounds through. Is case rupture a likely issue, or just bulged brass? To me it would make sense that I'd get fewer reloads with my looser chamber than a tight/fully supported but is it likely to have any cycling issues if I switch to x brand barrel?
 
Switching the barrel shouldn't affect reliability too much, I have had great luck with Lone Wolf barrels. As for bulging most of the higher end loads will bulge the case somewhat in a stock G20. Whether or not it will lead to a rupture depends on what load you are using. If you are loading out of a book or other reputable source you should be fine. Brass life will obviously be very short though.

I wish I had kept a few of the junk cases I got after buying some 10mm brass off a CGNer. That guy was as close to blowing himself up as I have ever seen. Coincidently he was using Titegroup as well. Some people shouldn't roll their own...
 
Well that's the next question, is it easy to see when that particular case is toast? All mine, even factory loads have the buldge but the die fixes it, I realize it can only be stressed so many times before it fails. Visual clues??
 
I've never had a reliability issue with any of the barrels I have swapped out.

I have KKM & Lone Wolf barrels for my Glocks in both 40S&W & 10mm prefer the KKM barrels by the way need to get one for my Delta again I'm running the original stock factory barrel now and like I said I had a 6" Barsto in the Delta.

CC
 
fuzzynuts54 said:
Well that's the next question, is it easy to see when that particular case is toast? All mine, even factory loads have the buldge but the die fixes it, I realize it can only be stressed so many times before it fails. Visual clues??
Click to expand...

Well the best thing to do IMO would be to relegate any brass that has been bulged toward much lighter loads.
 
fuzzynuts54 said:
Well that's the next question, is it easy to see when that particular case is toast? All mine, even factory loads have the buldge but the die fixes it, I realize it can only be stressed so many times before it fails. Visual clues??
Click to expand...

Switch to a slower powder like Blue Dot and the pressures to get the velocities you are wanting will be far less = far less stress/bulging of the cases.

CC
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom