What round to shoot through my LE no.4 mk1

TransAm1991

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So, I will be recieving my rifle in the mail hopefully tommorow..
I'm dieing to try this baby out..
At my local Ctire, I have 3 choices of .303 british.
Remington, Federal, and Winchester, all 180 grain, what should I look for? I would mine sticking to a game round, which is the best to use.
 
It's really rifle dependent. Like women, some perform fine with the cheap stuff and some will only go for the most expensive.

As ArtyMan said, try them all to see what works.
 
I've been told Winchester is the better of the 3 as far as the brass is concerned....That's if you're going to re-load that is.....And if your not:p throw your brass Plinkers' way alright:D

For 29.99 a pack of 20, I think I'm going to be hanging on to the empties.. $1.50 per round, man, if I get out with this thing too often, buying a reloader might be a good plan in my future..
 
I've been told Winchester is the better of the 3 as far as the brass is concerned....That's if you're going to re-load that is.....And if your not:p throw your brass Plinkers' way alright:D
plinker777 is right about Win. being the best brass. I have found that Federal ammo is very accurate in .303 British. If you are going to reload, Hornady's 174 gr.RN is an excellent game bullet. Your barrel 's twist is made for 174 gr.(Mk.7) projectiles.
 
I don't have any advice regarding the rounds to use, they all come out the end of my No4 MK1 with sufficient velocity to bring down a deer and when it misses it's more my fault than the round or the gun.

I just wanted to say congratulations on your new purchase! You'll really enjoy that rifle, but be careful, they're very addictive. I have two and am looking for number three at the end of the month and I'm just a noob compared to some of these folks.

And thanks to Plinker and c1a1 for the advice regarding reloading. My plan is to spend more time at the range and start reloading my brass.
 
i have had good experience with the federal powershock as far as cheap stuff goes, i have seen some very ####ty looking winchester super x rounds i wouldn't buy those, however they might work well
 
I have tried the CanTire Winchester, Remington and Federal rounds through my No.4 and all seemed to perform pretty much the same. With the Federal being the cheapest.
I would even say my rifle actually prefered the Federal ammo. Save yourself several dollars a box to start with and get the cheap stuff ...and go have fun!
 
I tried a few types of ammo in my LE .303brit, I found the Remington the best in my gun, but I don't remember if I had tried all the manufactures ammo in 180gr, 150gr doesn't work as well, but I have taken most of my deer with it.
 
I don't have any advice regarding the rounds to use, they all come out the end of my No4 MK1 with sufficient velocity to bring down a deer and when it misses it's more my fault than the round or the gun.

I just wanted to say congratulations on your new purchase! You'll really enjoy that rifle, but be careful, they're very addictive. I have two and am looking for number three at the end of the month and I'm just a noob compared to some of these folks.


And thanks to Plinker and c1a1 for the advice regarding reloading. My plan is to spend more time at the range and start reloading my brass.

Tell me about it! I just learned mine has a detachable clip!
And while you guys are reading, how does the safety work?
 
the prvi stuff is outstanding

Yes I know that the op didn't ask. As for brass the prvi is the best I have seen other than Lapua. Thier loaded ammo is worth it just for the brass. Stay with 180 gr bullets ot the superb hornady 174 gr match bullet
 
Handload and you can get some exceptional accuracy. The Hornady bullets are excellent, I am loading right now with Speer Match 174 gr.

I think it is easier to load a few of different powder weights to find out accuracy rather than buy boxes of 20 and hope you get a good one for your gun early in purchasing.
 
The design was intended to be loaded from stripper clips inserted in the charger, a slot for the stripper clips built in as a bridge across the action, with the magazine installed. The magazine would normally be removed only for cleaning.

I've bought Federal 180gr PowerShok and Remington 180gr CoreLokt and both have quickly killed whatever deer I hit with them, and they are too close in accuracy to tell whether my rifle likes one better than the other - any difference is inconsistent and would have to be blamed on me. I never tried the Winchester stuff because it was too much more money once the others were known to work.

The price of factory ammo for .303British is a great motivator to get you into reloading. Save your brass from the factory stuff until you have built up a pile and you won't feel so bad about having spent so much on that ammo. I use Lee equipment and it works well. Others will recommend more expensive gear and I can't tell you it's not better, but I can tell you Lee is certainly good enough and very good value. When you start reloading, learn about neck-sizing instead of full-length sizing and your brass will last longer in a Lee-Enfield.
 
ALL Lee-Enfield and Lee-Metford rifles were fitted with barrels with 1 turn in 10 inches, which works just peachy-keen fine for any bullet between 150 and 215 grains.

ANY rifle with ENFIELD rifling (odd number of lands and grooves, deep grooves, lands and grooves of equal width) will shoot its best with FLAT-based bullets.

My TEST load for the .303 round is DI brass, CCI or WLR primers, 38 grains of IMR-4895 and a Sierra Pro-Hunter 180 flatbase pointed bullet, seated to the OAL of a Mark VII military round. With this loading I have had .5-MOA groupings from several rifles, smaller in a Ross. This is NOT a heavy load, produces 2250 out of an SMLE, 2335 out of a Ross.

By actual British TEST in 1910 it was determined that MOST Lee-Enfields will shoot their most accurate with a .312" bullet. Only Hornady makes this, but the other American bullets are soft enough that if you kick them hard on the back end, they will obturate. An excellent load for the Hornady 150 flatbase is 40 grains of 4064, bullet seated so the entire cannelure shows. This is a reasonably zippy load but not absolute tops. Much venison in freezers around here from this load...... and it shoots half a minute if you can hold the rifle steady.

Hope his helps.
.
 
ALL Lee-Enfield and Lee-Metford rifles were fitted with barrels with 1 turn in 10 inches, which works just peachy-keen fine for any bullet between 150 and 215 grains.

ANY rifle with ENFIELD rifling (odd number of lands and grooves, deep grooves, lands and grooves of equal width) will shoot its best with FLAT-based bullets.

My TEST load for the .303 round is DI brass, CCI or WLR primers, 38 grains of IMR-4895 and a Sierra Pro-Hunter 180 flatbase pointed bullet, seated to the OAL of a Mark VII military round. With this loading I have had .5-MOA groupings from several rifles, smaller in a Ross. This is NOT a heavy load, produces 2250 out of an SMLE, 2335 out of a Ross.

By actual British TEST in 1910 it was determined that MOST Lee-Enfields will shoot their most accurate with a .312" bullet. Only Hornady makes this, but the other American bullets are soft enough that if you kick them hard on the back end, they will obturate. An excellent load for the Hornady 150 flatbase is 40 grains of 4064, bullet seated so the entire cannelure shows. This is a reasonably zippy load but not absolute tops. Much venison in freezers around here from this load...... and it shoots half a minute if you can hold the rifle steady.

Hope his helps.
.

Smellie your Test Load velocities sound like what I've seen in different ParkerHale No4's with cut to 24" barrels while shooting W-W 180 PPSP. Accuracy and standard deviation impressed me. 2270 @ 15 feet if i recall correctly.
The load i'm using pushes 174 FMJs at 2510 @ 15feet in a No4. Very accurate but probaly not wish to shoot excessively, for wear and tear reasons.
 
Is it normal to reload it by removing the magazine? It was really easy...

Just razzing you bud, Like tooner said, the enfield is designed for the use of stripper "clip" from the top, pushed down the rounds stack into the "magazine". I don't like to remove my mag from my rifle as every time you do it wears and will eventually become loose. The mag should be a very tight fit to the rifle. BTW the range officers always tell me to remove the mag when the firearms are at "make safe" and I always argue the point saying I'll remove the bolt but the mag stays...Most RO's are ok with it but some are not and insist.
 
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