Need some insight on this Kar 98k

Cdamen

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Bought from a fellow CGNutter, looking to restore the stock on this rifle. It looks to be covered in laquer of some kind.
Just wondering if there were a SAFE way to remove this finish down to bare wood WITHOUT harming the original markings on it.
Also, would it be better to refinish with linseed or Tung oil? (I know Tung looks good on garands)

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Another thing i noticed upon stripping this rifle down, was the amount of grease inbetween the stock and the barrel/action.
Is this amount of grease normal? Does it perform some sort of function (water repellant)? Can i just remove and apply a corrosion inhibitor?

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Cheers

-Craig
 
Bought from a fellow CGNutter, looking to restore the stock on this rifle. It looks to be covered in laquer of some kind.
Just wondering if there were a SAFE way to remove this finish down to bare wood WITHOUT harming the original markings on it.
Also, would it be better to refinish with linseed or Tung oil? (I know Tung looks good on garands)

230034_169802329741473_100001351228041_362030_5740261_n.jpg


227232_169802343074805_100001351228041_362031_2896744_n.jpg


222997_169802399741466_100001351228041_362032_3797201_n.jpg


Another thing i noticed upon stripping this rifle down, was the amount of grease inbetween the stock and the barrel/action.
Is this amount of grease normal? Does it perform some sort of function (water repellant)? Can i just remove and apply a corrosion inhibitor?

229490_169802583074781_100001351228041_362035_330866_n.jpg


217024_169802656408107_100001351228041_362036_1925393_n.jpg


Cheers

-Craig
You can use furniture stripper to remove the old finish. Using steel wool to clean the stock without any marking damage. I think linseed oil would be the proper finish, i did put tung oil on my rc K98 and look great also. I like to grease all my military rifle, the grease help to preserfe the metal and once i grease them, i dont remove them from stock.
Jocelyn
 
I would leave the shellac on the stock as RC Kar98ks are becoming their own collector piece in their own right. Wipe the stock with a shop towel and with a bit of gun oil and that will make the surface layer quite smooth while keeping the shellac intact should you wish to keep it on.

As for stripping the wood, I have walked down this path before in regards to one of my Kar98ks as the finish on the stock was violated with an evil layer of poorly applied wood varnish. The shellac was gone as well. The varnish had bubbling leaving a very uneven and sticky finish all over the wood.

Items like paint stripper, from my readings, would raise the wood grain (and markings with it) so any wiping with steel wool to smooth out the wood grain might run the chance of removing the ink markings. I wasn't taking that chance with my first Kar98k.

As for removing it, here is what I did after consulting my fellow CGNers: I washed the stock under some hot running water for a few minutes, wiped it reasonably dry with a shop towel, and lightly rubbed the stock with 0000 steel wool. I then rinsed the stock again under hot water and rubbed in some gun oil. The ink markings remained intact (other markings came through more clearer as well) and the nasty varnish was more or less removed. There is only a minute amount left and you can only see it in the light but the stock looks and feels a heck of a lot better.

The grease is to be expected. These rifles were packed away in crates by the Soviets after re-furbishment and cosmoline was poured all over them to preserve the rifles and prevent corrosion from long term storage. I have to say it worked damn well after 60 years!

To remove the cosmo, grab yourself some shop towels from Crappy Tire, a box of Q-tips, and get wiping ;). I recommend a complete disassembly as you will find the cosmo in every nick and cranny.

Finish the metal off with some 0000 steel wool to remove any surface leave gunk but leaving the original finish intact. Lastly, rub some gun oil on the metal parts exposed to the steel wool and especially parts like the bolt and action.

The one thing I took off of my RCs was the crude paint on the bolt take down disc on the butt stock and the stock bolt (Yeah, flame me already). It was 30-40% intact and looked really terrible. I left the shellac on the stock (on my second Kar98k that is) and the Russian re-blue on everything else and my babies turned out mighty fine in the end.

It looks like you have a stamped trigger guard. These are a great addition for a Kar98k and the German rifle collector as these stamped parts are not common.

Out of curiosity, what is the letter code and date on the receiver ?
 
I would leave the shellac on the stock as RC Kar98ks are becoming their own collector piece in their own right. Wipe the stock with a shop towel and with a bit of gun oil and that will make the surface layer quite smooth while keeping the shellac intact should you wish to keep it on.

As for stripping the wood, I have walked down this path before in regards to one of my Kar98ks as the finish on the stock was violated with an evil layer of poorly applied wood varnish. The shellac was gone as well. The varnish had bubbling leaving a very uneven and sticky finish all over the wood.

Items like paint stripper, from my readings, would raise the wood grain (and markings with it) so any wiping with steel wool to smooth out the wood grain might run the chance of removing the ink markings. I wasn't taking that chance with my first Kar98k.

As for removing it, here is what I did after consulting my fellow CGNers: I washed the stock under some hot running water for a few minutes, wiped it reasonably dry with a shop towel, and lightly rubbed the stock with 0000 steel wool. I then rinsed the stock again under hot water and rubbed in some gun oil. The ink markings remained intact (other markings came through more clearer as well) and the nasty varnish was more or less removed. There is only a minute amount left and you can only see it in the light but the stock looks and feels a heck of a lot better.

The grease is to be expected. These rifles were packed away in crates by the Soviets after re-furbishment and cosmoline was poured all over them to preserve the rifles and prevent corrosion from long term storage. I have to say it worked damn well after 60 years!

To remove the cosmo, grab yourself some shop towels from Crappy Tire, a box of Q-tips, and get wiping ;). I recommend a complete disassembly as you will find the cosmo in every nick and cranny.

Finish the metal off with some 0000 steel wool to remove any surface leave gunk but leaving the original finish intact. Lastly, rub some gun oil on the metal parts exposed to the steel wool and especially parts like the bolt and action.

The one thing I took off of my RCs was the crude paint on the bolt take down disc on the butt stock and the stock bolt (Yeah, flame me already). It was 30-40% intact and looked really terrible. I left the shellac on the stock (on my second Kar98k that is) and the Russian re-blue on everything else and my babies turned out mighty fine in the end.

It looks like you have a stamped trigger guard. These are a great addition for a Kar98k and the German rifle collector as these stamped parts are not common.

Out of curiosity, what is the letter code and date on the receiver ?

The only reason i was going to refinish the stock is because the shellac finish is chipping off and creating rough spots on the stock. I bought it to shoot it mostly... not just be a safe queen.

I plan on doing a complete strip and clean, then regrease and put it back together. Can wait to shoot her!

The lettering/date on the reciever are...

BYF 42


Cheers
 
Leaving the grease will give you a sticky mess if you ever shoot it until it's hot. If you refinish you're stock, clean the metal with a good degreaser like brake cleaner, then re-oil it and bolt it back together.
 
BYF 42 means...drumroll please...
Mauser Werke, Oberndorf on the Neckar
It's from an obsure tome called The Standard Directory of Proof Marks with WW2 German Ordinance Codes by Gerhard Wirnsberger translated by R.A. Steindler.
I don't know where it came from originally ; Grandad recently. Kinda handy when I frequent this forum; Black Powder too.
Jesus does this make me a nerd or what? Better go shoot a large caliber Milsurp til the Shame bugs go away; semi-auto preferably.
 
The only reason i was going to refinish the stock is because the shellac finish is chipping off and creating rough spots on the stock. I bought it to shoot it mostly... not just be a safe queen.

I plan on doing a complete strip and clean, then regrease and put it back together. Can wait to shoot her!

The lettering/date on the reciever are...

BYF 42


Cheers

Fair enough, when you do finish, please let us see the end results as I, as I am sure others, are eager to see what your lady will look like afterwards.

BYF 42 means she was made as Waffenfabrik Mauser plant in 1942, as previously mentioned. If you do wish, you could also look for a Russian capture restoration kit (they are on E-bay for instance) and bring her back closely to the state she was in before being refurbished.

With her being 1942, I can imagine she has the slots on the front sight base for the sight hood. These are not easy to install but not impossible. I did it with my 1944 BCD and she looks really, really good!
 
T
The lettering/date on the reciever are...

BYF 42


Cheers

I collect Oberndorfs specficially and have them complete, all matched and all correct from 1934 through to 1945 ...

It's really interesting to view the deterioration of production standards and quality control over that period. Guess it's kind of hard to work well when you're being bombed .. :D

1942 Code byf K98k (Karabiner 98) Rifle
(Mfg in 1942 by Mauser Werke AG, Oberndorf a/N)
http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=227-1942-Code-byf-K98k-(Karabiner-98)-Rifle

Regards,
Doug
 
Well I don't have THAT many Kar98ks ;) but I do see a significance difference in production and stamping standards between my 1940 J.P. Sauer & Sohn and my 1944 Gustloff-Werke. The hand guard on the BCD is off a Kriegsmodell and is unfinished overall as you can even see the carpentering work done by hand as well which is rather rough but still attractive to look at.

Both shoot exceptionally so I know that standard did not slip one bit.
 
I plan on doing a complete strip and clean, then regrease and put it back together. Can wait to shoot her!

The lettering/date on the reciever are...

BYF 42


Cheers

There's no reason to Grease it at all like it was dropped in a 300 Gallon Grease Vat, Unless you plan on storing it again for another 70 years and Not shooting it.
 
Some guys really like the rough machining and woodwork on late war rifles. I wouldn't say the quality slipped though only cosmetics. The late war rifles shoot and function every bit as good as pre war rifles, in my experience.
 
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