What is the best .22lr autoloader rifle?

speedf8

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Hey everyone. I am looking for something under $300 that will handle any and all bulk box ammo with minimal jams or problems. I was initially looking at a Ruger 10/22 in blued or stainless, but I think the stainless' receiver is nickel-plated and could flake off into the action of the gun. Anyway, let me know what you guys think as far as which gun, and if blued or stainless is the way to go. I might also consider putting different stocks on, and I know there are some cool assault rifle ones for the Ruger. Thanks for your input everyone!
 
You are going to get a lot of different opinions, evertbody has a good or bad story to tell. Personally i have a 10-22 that i`ve shot for years, if it didn`t work it would be gone.
 
but to answer the question- REMINGTON NYLON 66- has been since 59, and forever SHALL BE- take a look at the "torture test videos" and then you tell me- no OTHER rifle has accomplished so much with so little care
 
I originaly wanted a Ruger but got a Nylon 66 ultracheap during the winter and have put a few hundred rounds of every type of lr ammo i could down it and have had almost no issues.

internal 14 round magazine, so light its insane, seems rugged enough

mounted a scope and have had very little movement from it since i sighted it in at 50

only thing i dont really like about it is no options for any customization besides a scope which you wouldnt want to invest any serious cash in for a nylon

i got one in a bulk deal so slapped it on
good luck finding one. i'm very happy with mine
 
All 10/22s have aluminum receivers. They are black on the standard models and bare aluminum on the stainless models.

Most 10/22 cycling problems can be fixed with the Volquartsen extractor and the use of quality magazines. Mine will even run on subsonic ammo.

I would consider the 10/22 the best candidate for customization, but the Marlins are the better of the two as-is.
 
The marlin 60 and 795 are the answer to your question. They're both sub $200 and are extremely reliable and accurate. You already got this answer in your other thread on basically the same topic.
 
The marlin 60 and 795 are the answer to your question. They're both sub $200 and are extremely reliable and accurate. You already got this answer in your other thread on basically the same topic.

If you just want a basic gun and plan to do no modifications, then yes go with the Marlin.

If you are a tinkerer at all and might want to start bolting on a bunch of cool #### in the future, get the Ruger 10/22.

I have a Ruger, and it has been almost 100% reliable, with the stock magazines. I get a jam every once in awhile with some after market 25 round Butler Creek mags though.

Oh yeah there is another thing to consider. 25 round mags, or 50 round drums in the 10/22 are fun as hell.
 
I've heard the older 10/22s are better than the new ones. I had a new one which I got rid of because it was a jam-o-matic. i've heard a lot about the new ones needing new extractors and maybe some other stuff to make it reliable like the marlin. Then you're still missing some features the marlin has which require more add-ons. Oh, and it's not as accurate as the marlin either which will require again more add-ons. This puts it WAAAY out of his price range.

The marlins have sling swivel studs, thicker barrels, more accurate out of the box, last shot hold open, choice of magazine style, better balanced (esp mod 60) and they're more reliable and less picky with ammo out of the box. Oh, and they cost about $80 less and don't require any accessories to make them work.

These marlins have sold about 11 million units. The 10/22 has sold about 5 million. While a lot of tinkerers are fans of the 10/22 it's by no means the most popular .22 semi nor is the most reliable or accurate. It's not even best value for money. The one thing it does do better than anyone else is serve as a platform to upgrade. That's it.
 
Ya. it's synthetic with a carbon fibre coating. The coating is real carbon fibre. It's still really nice.
 
I concur 101% with everything Idcurrie said /\:cheers:

11 million Marlin 60s sold....that alone speaks for itself. Aside from being super reliable, my two 60s are almost as accurate as my CZ 452s. No mods necessary at all.
 
In order of what I have seen working, the Marlin 60 slightly beating the Nylon 66, but only because it's still available with options to customize, and a 10/22 copy, the AMT 25/22, followed by the 10/22's of various trims. That AMT is what the Ruger should have been, had mine for years and will probably die with it.
 
Why do you guys think a fancy extractor will help your 10/22 cycle better? You do know that the extractor is only used to extract live, unfired rounds right? When you fire the 10/22 the blow-back fires the casing out of the chamber and it then hits the lip on the back of your mag causing it to leave the breach.
 
The extractor works in conjunction with the ejector to properly time ejection. The case needs to be held against the bolt face until the ejector kicks it out or stovepipes will result.

My 10/22 is an older one that stovepiped frequently when I first got it. Replacing the worn extractor made it run like clockwork. I can tell you from firsthand experience that the extractor is critical to proper functioning.
 
The downside to a 10/22 needing an aftermarket extractor could very well be true in many cases. I didn't fire my new 10/22 with the original extractor in it, so I can't say.

However, I also want to bring up a negative of Marlin rifles from my experience with my brother's 7000 a few years back. (The 7000 is/was a heavy barrel version of the 795.) Marlins have a grooved receiver for mounting rings, while the 10/22 is drilled & tapped for a scope base. The 10/22 method is better because:

1) Scope rings attached to a grooved receiver can slip. My brother had to get a BKL mount with 6 screws to avoid slippage.
2) With a 10/22 base you can use weaver-type rings. I'm a big fan of the weaver-type Burris zee rings because the plastic inserts have a number of advantages.

And the Marlin method is better because:
1) If hit with great force (like dropping the rifle scope-first onto concrete) the 10/22 base can rip off, stripping out the threads. I imagine a grooved receiver is much stronger in this regard.
 
Try completely removing your extractor and firing the gun some time if you don't believe me.

Why? If the extractor truly plays no role besides ejecting unfired cartridges, then changing extractors should have no effect, which is clearly not the case. Furthermore, I do want the ability to extract an unfired round, so the ability to run without an extractor is irrelevant.

A similar situation exists with S&W Model 41s. Pistolsmith Austin Behlert developed a method of tuning the extractors to cure the stovepiping sometimes encountered with these pistols.
 
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