Optics for F-class

toxic

toxic

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I'm looking to buy a scope and I'm getting tired of doing the buy one better thing. I've gone through 3 scopes in and am learning that it would have been better to pay more once. So...I want to buy a premium scope that I can use for long range varmints now (from a bench) and use it for F class later.

Problem is I don't know much about F class equipment but I need to buy a scope very soon for a trip to South Dakota. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 
I use a Schmidt and Bender PMII 12x50x56 with Sport Fine reticle. 1/8 MOA adjustment with multi turn turrets. It has 75 MOA elevation and 30 MOA windage.

S&B part # 878-911-855-A7-A4

In my opinion there is nothing better out there. Yes it cost a small fortune but it was worth every penny.

Lots of folks are going to recommend Nightforce and I have nothing but good things to say about the Nightforce NXS and BR scopes. I just like my S&B scopes better. It's my opinion that the optical quality of the S&B scopes exceeds the Nightforce significantly, especially at the high end of the magnification spectrum.

I' also sure that someone will chime in with an endorsement for March copes. Very nice scopes, but just as expensive as the S&B and there's no Canadian importer/distributor and no legit way to get them across from the US that I'm aware of. Even if there was, rying to get warranty work on March would be a nightmare as it would have to get back into the US then out again.

Both Nightforce and S&B have Canadian reps who will back up their products.
 
I just noticed the sticky at the top of this forum. Looks like I posted in the wrong area. My appologies Mods.
 
I have used my Nightforce NXS 8-32x56 with MLR reticle and found that while it may not be the 'perfect' F-Class rig ( 1/4 rather than 1/8 adjustments and not a pure target reticle ) it sure works real well and sounds like it may be the perfect double duty scope for you. I have just picked up a Sightron 10-50x60 solely for F- Class and it appears to be an excellent choice but that may not be a sufficiently premium scope for your needs.
 
prairieguy said:
I use a Schmidt and Bender PMII 12x50x56 with Sport Fine reticle.
Click to expand...
The two that I use for F Class have 0.25cm turrets though. I also use a 6-25 PMII Illuminated with Mil Dot on a 338LM.

In addition to the two S&B for F Class, I also use a Zeiss Diavari 6-24x56. Warmer picture (more brilliant colour) than the S&B but not quite as incredible as the S&B with respect to clarity.

Swarovski makes a very fine optic also, just not high enough magnification for targets (for my taste).
 
I compete with the SIII 10-50X60 scope with FCH. It is everything an F class scope could be with excellent optics and rock solid tracking. Side focus works superbly.

Dialed back, it would work very well as a varmint scope if not a bit big.

Nothing on the market even remotely close to this performance even at double the price.

Jerry
 
Thanks all - looks like there are more choices there than I thought.

I've noticed that the scopes listed don't have yards marked on the parallax adjustment. How do you know if you're on the right setting for a known distance?
 
toxic said:
Thanks all - looks like there are more choices there than I thought.

I've noticed that the scopes listed don't have yards marked on the parallax adjustment. How do you know if you're on the right setting for a known distance?
Click to expand...

You turn the knob until things come into focus. I have never found a scope yet where the adjustment matches with distances on the knobs. Think of it this way, if your elevation knob was graduated at set distances for a 175 SMK at 2750 fps you'd still have to fine tune for atmospheric conditions and altitude.

Same goes for your parallax adjustment. The distances on the knob should not dictate where you end up turning it so why even have the graduations listed. just turn the knob until you get what you want to see.
 
Well tommorow I am pulling the pin a buying a NightForce 5.5-22 scope. I'm torn on a recticle. Any advice on going with the NP-R1 or NP-R2?
 
Dan, if the scope is for F class you should seriously consider the 8-32. I can tell you that you will regret not having the higher magnification once you start using the scope.

Either way, the reticle you want is the NP-2DD.

h ttp://www.nightforceoptics.com/nightforcescopes/NP-2DD-15x.pdf
 
toxic said:
Well tommorow I am pulling the pin a buying a NightForce 5.5-22 scope. I'm torn on a recticle. Any advice on going with the NP-R1 or NP-R2?
Click to expand...

My vote would be NP-R2
Less cluttered then R1

I would move up to a NXS 8-32 with the new 1/8 MOA turrets.
 
prairieguy said:
Dan, if the scope is for F class you should seriously consider the 8-32. I can tell you that you will regret not having the higher magnification once you start using the scope.

Either way, the reticle you want is the NP-2DD.

h ttp://www.nightforceoptics.com/nightforcescopes/NP-2DD-15x.pdf
Click to expand...

I totally agree on the 8-32. I can't learn to like the 2DD though- I got one and have a hell of a time not loosing that floating dot on a black target face.

I also have an NP-R2, which I like better, but I'd go NP-1 if starting over. Everybody has a prefrence, but unfortunatly there are no hard and fast answers!
 
Definitely +1 for the 8-32. I even know a of people stepping it up to the 12-42. You can really see how steady you at that magnification.

I just ordered a Sightron cause I like the features of the LRMOA. My next scope, once I have a .338LM to put it on, will be the 10-50x60 LRMD CM.
Very nice.
 
Thanks again guys. I actually chickened out today and delayed ordering until Monday.

I'm all over the more magnification is better for F class idea in the future but I' concerned about the 8 minimum for the task at hand. This weekend I'm going to play with my other scope at 8X to see if I can handle that as the minimum power.

That 2DD recticle looks slick and for the immediate use would be perfect to simply put the dot on a prairie dog's head. :)
Really if a guy is going to adjust the turrets for drop and wind is there really a need for all the marks like on the R1 or R2 anyway? I really wish there was someone locally who sold Nightforce so I could see the recticles in person before dropping this much dough.
 
Pull the pin!! I have the 5.5-22X56 with NP-R1 and the NP-R2. I like the NP-R1 when I'm shooting. Oh and the 8-32X56 is great but on the line you don't see many cranked all the way up because of the mirage. I seldom have the 5.5-22 cranked all the way.
IMHO with a NightForce you can spot all day and not have eye strain, not so with cheaper scopes.
Having shot out to a mile, with 28 different shooters and 15 different types of scopes, there are few that see hits like the NightForce on steel plates out to a mile. I paint the 1 mile target with 2 coats of black and then 2 coats of yellow. The NightForce shows the hits.
You won't regret it.
 
I'm going down to the states this week and I've found a NightForce dealer in the area where I'll be. I know I can't export one but at least I'll get to see the different recticles in person. Then I'll pull the pin. :)
 
Toxic.... good on you. One of my favorite sayings is it takes a wealthy man to buy cheap scopes. S&B are the Porsche of scopes. Nightforce are the Lexus of scopes. 8-32 is a good choice, but for the modest increase in size, I'd suggest the 12-42. Scopes - regardless of their max power and objective diameter - tend to be the dimmest at their max magnification. A 12-42 scope will be brighter at 32X than a 32X scope at full magnification.

Funny how Matt dislikes the NP2DD. He is a world class shooter and his opinion should be regarded as highly credible, but I - and many other FO shooters LOVE the NP2DD. FWIW, I am a hard core gopher/coyote slayer and have used this scope for both... Very nice, but I tend to like less power for varmints so that i can find them, and in the case of mirage, so I can HIT them.
 
I was tickled to find a 12-42 2DD used, and have tried very hard to like it, but I have a hell of a time finding that floating dot on a black target face, especially in mirage. A white center on the target would change the water on the beans. It all comes down to looking through as many scopes as possible, and figuring out what works best for you.
 
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