upper recievers
- Thread starter Bryan Carvalho
- Start date
This has been proven incorrect time and time again with ARs.With military weight ammo you need velocity as much as you can get.Might not make as much difference if you are shooting 77s.
I was in Australia with GL when we were forced to shoot M4s and it wasn't good.And these were brand new Colts to boot.Thier consistant accuracy beyond 200m is not very good with a 14 inch barrel.
If you do decide to go with a carbine, stick to a 16" with mid length gas.
Pass on the M4 cut b.s. As you don't need it(unless of course you are strapping a GL under the barrel...).
The upper receiver is a case - nothing more, nothing less.
Discussion on billet/forgings, anodizing, color, etc. Is just drivel.
The case has no bearing on accuracy or how it will shoot.
Samesame with the M4 feedramp cut - it's awesome to tell your airsofting friends, but will not matter with a range toy.
Your best bet for a barrel is one from a known barrel manufacturer that has a stellar rep. For quality and accuracy.
Krieger, Compass Lake, Lothar Walter are but a few - there are lots out there.
A Wilde chamber is probably the best bet.
Pass on the M4 cut b.s. As you don't need it(unless of course you are strapping a GL under the barrel...).
The upper receiver is a case - nothing more, nothing less.
Discussion on billet/forgings, anodizing, color, etc. Is just drivel.
The case has no bearing on accuracy or how it will shoot.
Samesame with the M4 feedramp cut - it's awesome to tell your airsofting friends, but will not matter with a range toy.
Your best bet for a barrel is one from a known barrel manufacturer that has a stellar rep. For quality and accuracy.
Krieger, Compass Lake, Lothar Walter are but a few - there are lots out there.
A Wilde chamber is probably the best bet.
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I would agree than a 14.5" barrel with a carbine gas system probably won't perform like a 20" HBAR, but the latest guys are shooting 16" HBARs with longer mid-length gas systems.
Honestly, I have no idea whether a 20" or 16" target rifle is better - both shoot better than my abilities if properly put together.
LOL. OK.
Type III Hard anodizing is typically 13 and 150 μm (0.0005" to 0.006") thick. Standards for thick sulfuric anodizing are given by MIL-A-8625 Type III, AMS 2469, BS 5599, BS EN 2536, and UK DEF STAN 03-26/1. They are worth reading before you want to input too much to this discussion
The longer you bathe the part in solution, the deeper the anodizing will typically go. Also, the more broken the surface, the penetration will be deeper. Typically this is achieved by grit blasting.
When you grit blast to get maximum penetration, you get a rougher surface that looks more like a parkerized finish than typical anodizing over a raw or machined forging like most AR15 receivers are.
To get truely deep parkerizing, you want a long bath and a roughened grit blasted surface. The rougher finish will retain some oxidants which can lighten the finish somewhat and also the black dyes used will wash out a little and your colors often go a bit greyer.
But don't take my word for it. Go invest in an anodizing setup and try it for yourself
LOL. OK.
Type III Hard anodizing is typically 13 and 150 μm (0.0005" to 0.006") thick. Standards for thick sulfuric anodizing are given by MIL-A-8625 Type III, AMS 2469, BS 5599, BS EN 2536, and UK DEF STAN 03-26/1. They are worth reading before you want to input too much to this discussion
The longer you bathe the part in solution, the deeper the anodizing will typically go. Also, the more broken the surface, the penetration will be deeper. Typically this is achieved by grit blasting.
When you grit blast to get maximum penetration, you get a rougher surface that looks more like a parkerized finish than typical anodizing over a raw or machined forging like most AR15 receivers are.
To get truely deep parkerizing, you want a long bath and a roughened grit blasted surface. The rougher finish will retain some oxidants which can lighten the finish somewhat and also the black dyes used will wash out a little and your colors often go a bit greyer.
But don't take my word for it. Go invest in an anodizing setup and try it for yourself
You can spout all the technical bibble-babble you want.
My point, that you obviously missed, is that you can have anodizing in different colors and shades of those colors.
If a certain manufacturer or anodizer doesn't have the shade or color prefered by the customer they sometimes make up lame excuses of 'oh we can't get that' or 'our anodizing is darker/lighter/not what you want because of so and so'. Obviously there are limitations to anodizing, but for the most part the excuses are B/S.
Anodizing is not specific to ARs or gun parts, btw.
As a specifier, I've seen alot of stuff color matched with the right outfit.
Sometimes it takes a fair amount of coin, but it can be done.
North Eastern Arms
Manufacturer-Business Member
You can spout all the technical bibble-babble you want.
My point, that you obviously missed, is that you can have anodizing in different colors and shades of those colors.
If a certain manufacturer or anodizer doesn't have the shade or color prefered by the customer they sometimes make up lame excuses of 'oh we can't get that' or 'our anodizing is darker/lighter/not what you want because of so and so'. Obviously there are limitations to anodizing, but for the most part the excuses are B/S.
Anodizing is not specific to ARs or gun parts, btw.
As a specifier, I've seen alot of stuff color matched with the right outfit.
Sometimes it takes a fair amount of coin, but it can be done.
i think i will stick the advice given by my engineer on the matter, he says your wrong... The only way for us to darken up the colour is to reduce the depth of plating. colour is also different between grades of Aluminum, and depending on the mill run, different between billet and casting.
North Eastern Arms
Manufacturer-Business Member
we are chambering in 5.56 and our barrels are being made in house, the blanks are coming from a company that also supplies barret. When we check the concentricity of the bore to the OD on the barrel, it was out by 10th's, compared to finished barrels we checked by well known companies whose were out by as much as 12thou..... which really is not that big of a deal.
North Eastern Arms
Manufacturer-Business Member
they will be coated in what has been approved in the Aerospace industry as a chrome replacement.
something our blank supplier talked to us about, chrome lining a barrel does not improve accuracy, and in a lot of cases hinders it.
You can spout all the technical bibble-babble you want.
My point, that you obviously missed, is that you can have anodizing in different colors and shades of those colors.
If a certain manufacturer or anodizer doesn't have the shade or color prefered by the customer they sometimes make up lame excuses of 'oh we can't get that' or 'our anodizing is darker/lighter/not what you want because of so and so'. Obviously there are limitations to anodizing, but for the most part the excuses are B/S.
Anodizing is not specific to ARs or gun parts, btw.
As a specifier, I've seen alot of stuff color matched with the right outfit.
Sometimes it takes a fair amount of coin, but it can be done.
I don't want to point out every mistake people make on CGN, but Type III anodizing (again, you should have read the references I posted) is only available in CLEAR and BLACK. To get other colors, you have to do Type IIb or lesser anodizing.
CLEAR comes out really light grey to titanium/gold-ish color.
AFAIK, the only approved substitute standards in Canada and the US for mil applications in barrel bores are some variants of the nitro-carburization process, and/or EPVD coating. In fact, I just went to a really nifty presentation on EPVD in gun barrels at CANSEC this week.
There are plenty other possibilities, but they aren't in the M16/C7 TDPs as substitute standards. It will be interesting to see which process they go with - some of the non-TDP replacements are also very good and just not approved by the military yet.
I look forward to what NEA brings out in the near future and definitely will acquire a sample and do a review here.
SO...are the receivers black like any other top tier manufacturer.. or do they have a purple tint to them?
They are not purply. I have a LOT of 7075-T6 billet parts from NEA and none of them are purply. It's probably just your monitor or something?
they are a very dark charcoal grey, almost black. They look like USGI parkerizing, except they are anodized aluminum.
- Location
- Peace River, Alberta
Black, purple or whatever colour doesn't matter to me. It is just like my underwear drawer, many different colours in there but I just pick a pair and put them unlike some people of the female gender.
When I get my upper, I am going to run that ##### till she is hot to see what happens. I am sure it will be fine.
Greg
When I get my upper, I am going to run that ##### till she is hot to see what happens. I am sure it will be fine.
Greg
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North Eastern Arms
Manufacturer-Business Member
SO...are the receivers black like any other top tier manufacturer.. or do they have a purple tint to them?
They are black and i suck with the Camera........
