Reloading basics question

"...boxer primed military brass is uncommon..." Um, no. Your IVI brass is boxer primed. So is Lake City, most Radway Green and nearly all other NATO spec brass. Warsaw Pact brass is usually, but not always berdan primed.
Milsurp brass is a bit thicker though. You remove the primer crimp and reduce the powder charge by 10%.

OK, if boxer primed military brass is so common, then where can you get me some? I'll take 2k please......
 
OK, if boxer primed military brass is so common, then where can you get me some? I'll take 2k please......

Budget shooter supply, link above the main menu, i got 1000 from Henry, just need to make sure you use a swager to get rid of the crimp, its IVI boxer primed crimped, or pay a little more and you can get sized and crimp removed.
 
Budget shooter supply, link above the main menu, i got 1000 from Henry, just need to make sure you use a swager to get rid of the crimp, its IVI boxer primed crimped, or pay a little more and you can get sized and crimp removed.

Any IVI(Imperial) commercial brass from days of yore if you can find them, is 762NATO brass in .308WIN clothing I do believe. These commercial .308 cases were by far the lowest case capacity of any commercial brass I reloaded. Anyone know for sure if iVi loaded their commercial .308WIN hunting ammo, with the same cases they made the NATO rounds for the CF, with only headstamp changes?:canadaFlag:
 
Take your time

Thoughts-

-the doofus who said don't even reload for that rifle? ignore him for the rest of your life.
-you're going to love how much more accurate your rifle gets once you find a load for it!! I'm using a 2007 M14s, btw, fave load (so far) is 42.7 grains IMR 4895 powder, a Hornady #3037 (150 gr FMJ), CCI 200 primer (actually had a slamfire with Federal once! never again...), and whatever brass I've go (I've got Federal, Winchester, IVI, DA, Norma, yup, I'm a scrounger.)
-read up! Choose a reloading manual, and read it thouroughly!!
-lots of good advice above about what to get, so I'm not adding to it.
-take your time and be sure about whatever you're doing, such as 'making certain that you have powder in a case before seating it's bullet' types of things. You'll eventually develop a rhythm that'll help you not make mistakes, but let's be safe at first, eh?
-yeah, if you're using NATO brass you're going to have to deal with the primer crimp; no need to crimp your primers in, but this crimp can really be a pain in the ash when pressing a new primer in... I just use an RCBS or Lee chamfer tool, end of story.
-hmmm, boxer primed milsurp brass is all I've ever met...unless it comes in case-lots from eastern europe or is super old (like WW2)... ...just be sure to check for the one big centred hole instead of two smaller holes side-by.

NEXT! :welcome:
 
Thoughts-

-the doofus who said don't even reload for that rifle? ignore him for the rest of your life.
-you're going to love how much more accurate your rifle gets once you find a load for it!! I'm using a 2007 M14s, btw, fave load (so far) is 42.7 grains IMR 4895 powder, a Hornady #3037 (150 gr FMJ), CCI 200 primer (actually had a slamfire with Federal once! never again...), and whatever brass I've go (I've got Federal, Winchester, IVI, DA, Norma, yup, I'm a scrounger.)
-read up! Choose a reloading manual, and read it thouroughly!!
-lots of good advice above about what to get, so I'm not adding to it.
-take your time and be sure about whatever you're doing, such as 'making certain that you have powder in a case before seating it's bullet' types of things. You'll eventually develop a rhythm that'll help you not make mistakes, but let's be safe at first, eh?
-yeah, if you're using NATO brass you're going to have to deal with the primer crimp; no need to crimp your primers in, but this crimp can really be a pain in the ash when pressing a new primer in... I just use an RCBS or Lee chamfer tool, end of story.
-hmmm, boxer primed milsurp brass is all I've ever met...unless it comes in case-lots from eastern europe or is super old (like WW2)... ...just be sure to check for the one big centred hole instead of two smaller holes side-by.

NEXT! :welcome:

Kayser what velocities are you getting with that 4895 load?
On the slam fire,I assume you mean on a Federal 210 primer and not factory Federal .308WIN ammo? I used the 250s alot under 748, and noticed the BLR .308 just barely dinging them, so I always figured CCI for thicker/harder primer cups.
 
Hey yo...

I haven't chronographed the load, but I consider it light. My previous fave was 42.5 grains, btw...

Yup, a tray of Federal Large Rifle primers, from the LGS. I heard about the tougher/thicker/'slam fire resistant' (don't quote that last part, fer jeezus' sake!) CCI primers, tried the Fed's, dropped a round in the chamber and let the bolt fly home, and BANG! a new hole just in front of the firing line. Shocking, and I ain't never going back (unless that's all they have in stock at the time...) :)
 
Just a thought.... if I'm hitting the gong at 225m, I'm a happy camper. The factory ammo wasn't working it for me but then I found this load... and I'm pleased. Light load? Mayyybe... but the shoulder doesn't mind, and the gong gets hit. Groups about 3-4" at 100m.

Works for me! (any idea what that load would chrony at?)
 
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What do you guy's think about boxer primed military brass? Not the berdan primed stuff.
I know that the primers are crimped but once there out the first time you don't have to crimp them again right?
Also are these military brass thiker walls than the comercial brass?

I use Dominion 7.62NATO 1965 brass, and found it to be the thickest. I keep my loads to 2 grains under max, and found 43.5g RL 165g Hornady Interlock BTSP to shoot 1.5inches in a stock 2007 Norinco. I think my OAL was 2.8 but I'm not at home right now to check.

Anything less than 43.5g was giving me FTF's, and 44 had pressure signs.

My next project will be finding 150g FBSP accuracy, as I remember my 42g varget loads shot a lot like factory winchester ammo. I didn't check for accuracy, but I rapid shot 100 rounds of that and had perfect form. If I get less than 1.5 inches with Varget and 150's, that'll be my hunting load.
 
Man there are a whole lot easier ways to learn how to handload than to start feeding an M305. I'm just saying. Beltfed in post #13 has a point. And, might I suggest Fulton Armouries M14 FAQ's especially the one on handloading for gas operated US rifles.

I know, I know. We all load for the beasts. But some of us know what we are doing, and some of those know that what we are doing has risks. I like Fulton's way of putting it. He ain't saying handloading caused the Kabooms, he is just saying he ain't ever seen a Kaboom in a US gas operated rifle using factory ammo. Not in 7.62, .30'06, or 5.56. But he has seen lots of kabooms in US gas operated rifles. He's not jumping to any conclusions, but he ain't shooting your reloads either!

Knowing what I do now, I'm mucho happy I did not bite off learning how to handload by feeding my M-14. Personally, I know I fired some of my boo boos, before I realized they were boo boos. Now, some others here are perfect, and have never screwed up, so if the OP can just follow their lead, he'll have a great time, shoot lots, and pass his rifle on to his grandkids.
 
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