Problem with MFS 308

JRW (QOR)

JRW (QOR)

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I was rolling arround a round when I felt something on the tip of the bullet. A very small flare of metal right at the tip, but only on about 1/5th of the end. You can feel it if you run your fingernail down the bullet off the tip.

Thought it might be just the one, so checked others. Yep, they all had it to some degree. Obviously some flaw in the factory processing. This would make the bullet pretty unstable rather quick.

I checked the Serbian ammo I just bought, and no flare of metal at all on any of them.

Once I'm done with the MFS at the next CQB shoot, that will be the end of them for me.
 
At the tip, won't cause too much of a problem. At the ogive, or base, would give much more significant problems. Given it's the cheapest brand available, and the stuff seems to go bang pretty reliably, a little defect, isn't surprising.
 
curtmg said:
At the tip, won't cause too much of a problem. At the ogive, or base, would give much more significant problems. Given it's the cheapest brand available, and the stuff seems to go bang pretty reliably, a little defect, isn't surprising.
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I'm sure it's fine below 500m. Will be testing that today with my Rem 700 to see how much it wanders.
 
"...would make the bullet pretty unstable..." Hi. Like curtmg says, the only part of a bullet that matters is the base.
If you haven't tried as many brands as you can in your M700, you may find the rifle doesn't like the MFS. Match ammo it ain't. Isn't reloadable either.
 
I just bought some of this stuff on a whim to try it out in my m14s . and when i was inspecting the rounds i noticed what looks to be seating issues . some of the rounds had the cannaleur (sp?) above the case neck and some didnt , which i think may have consistency issues , i took a picture and will post it in a bit.
 
If you are using it for CQB (30 to 10 yards) nothing matters about the ammo other than it goes bang.

For CQB I shoot cheap bullets that are pulled from old military ammo, complete with pull marks.

The ONLY test of ammo is to shoot it at the relevent distance. I cannot imagine ammo so bad that it is not accurate enough to shoot CQB at 20 yards.
 
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sunray said:
"...would make the bullet pretty unstable..." Hi. Like curtmg says, the only part of a bullet that matters is the base.
If you haven't tried as many brands as you can in your M700, you may find the rifle doesn't like the MFS. Match ammo it ain't. Isn't reloadable either.
Click to expand...

For long distant I assumed the point was important too, hence the plastic tipped ammo.
 
There is one good thing I really like about the MFS is the packaging. Being wrapped in paper 5x4 means taken out of the box, the wrapped ammo fits perfectly into a grenade pouch. All you have to do is rip off the top of the paper and easily extract rounds to load mags.
 
JRW (QOR) said:
There is one good thing I really like about the MFS is the packaging. Being wrapped in paper 5x4 means taken out of the box, the wrapped ammo fits perfectly into a grenade pouch. All you have to do is rip off the top of the paper and easily extract rounds to load mags.
Click to expand...

But, then where will you keep your grenades?
 
I just tried this stuff and so far im on the fence a bit .

The ammunition fired considerably well and grouped at about 2.0" at 50 yards out of 5 shots which i just contributed to be steel cased and seeing as i was just having fun i didnt mind a whole lot .

what i didnt like so much was the red powder mess of primer sealant in my receiver after only firing 40 rounds and all around the chamber mouth was copious amount of unburnt powder .

Also the primer strikes were like craters . they didnt pierce the primer but left a ridge around the indentation that you could feel by running your finger over it (soft primers?).

Didnt do this with any of the brass stuff i fired either.
 
a small mark on the tip of the bullet wont make any difference, when the projectile is travelling trough the air it creates a fairly flat presure wave of air in front the tip and the tip and sides of the bullet dont make much differnce. the base and rear section "tail" is MUCH more importent

also, plastic tipped bullts have nothing to do with accuracy, or long range performance, the purpose of MOST plastic tipped bullits is so you can have a deep hollow point bullit that will still feed reliably in bolt guns and semi autos, yet when it strikes the target/game the plastic flattens out and the bullets preforms like a hollow point on impact.

another reason for plastic tipped bullts is so that lever gun guys can use pointed bullets in the tube mag of a lever gun where the tip of one bullet touches the primer of the cartridge in front which causes risk of mass detonation should one cartridge slam into the primer of the one in front in the mag for whatever reason, plastic tipped is softer so there is less change of it detonating the primer.

and as mentioned before if your shooting a rem 700, one of the most accurate modern actions out there, you would greatly bennifit from ethier match ammo or reloading to get the most out of that accurate rifle
 
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