Setting up a reloading bench?

I ran a similar small table for years, 24"x24", made from steel plate. Still have a Lee turret press mounted on it, easy to use (even while seated) and fairly portable. As mentioned though, I always need more room. - dan

I quite like to spread everything out, over several large surfaces
I hate feeling cramped, production must stop until I can clear everything away.
Hence the 10' bench.

What do you guys use for lighting? should I be concerned about any light sources (desk lamps, etc.) in proximity to my powder/station? I've got a window and some florescent bulbs, but thinking I'd like something closer for better light.

I know I'm beating this to death, but I'm a total noob, who, like most you i'm sure, prefers all ten fingers on his hands, eyebrows firmly attached to face and skin-un-shrapnel-embedded.


Don't worry, after all this, I WILL post a picture of what I've done, if only for ridicule, s&g and harmless name calling.haha
 
What do you guys use for lighting? should I be concerned about any light sources (desk lamps, etc.) in proximity to my powder/station? I've got a window and some florescent bulbs, but thinking I'd like something closer for better light.

I have a small fluorescent lamp under a shelf over the bench. I also have a floor gooseneck lamp from Ikea, small but bright.

The danger from lighting is, I think, not entirely nonexistent but it is minimal. I keep the gooseneck lamp at the other end of the table from the powder measure. An exploding bulb or tipped-over lamp could only set off powder if it is exposed and the most powder ever exposed when I reload is maybe 25 or so cases in the loading block. Minimal quantity, in other words, making the risk very minor.

The danger from having poor lighting, on the other hand, is significant.

BTW - the only stupid question is the one not asked.;)
 
Its a great idea! I would love to build a solid, rotating lazy Susan for reloading that sat on my bench. As for hiding the set up while friends who are antis come over? no thanks....they can deal with my hobby the same way I deal with their BS.



hmmm, anybody extended their press arm to get better leverage?

On my last bench the rock chucker was mounted inboard to save dropping stuff, used an extension to put the handle shaft clear of the bench. It adds leverage in a hurry and will tear the rim right off a case so be careful.

The new bench uses steel clamps made from 4x6 rectangular steel. Again allowing adjustments to be made quickly with no holes left in the bench. Top of the tube is capped with a plate to bolt the press down to. The Lyman press has a different throw than the Rock Chucker. With it raised about 4" above the table top making it feasible to hold the knob right to the bottom. That all depends on your personal height and bench surface height.
 
The new bench uses steel clamps made from 4x6 rectangular steel. Again allowing adjustments to be made quickly with no holes left in the bench. Top of the tube is capped with a plate to bolt the press down to. The Lyman press has a different throw than the Rock Chucker. With it raised about 4" above the table top making it feasible to hold the knob right to the bottom. That all depends on your personal height and bench surface height.

Have you photos of that? Sounds interesting.
 
I thought it was 4" above the work surface, but it is only 3"
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Plate in the bottom is welded from the inside, with two 1/2" nuts for the clamp bolts. Another loose shoe rides inside for the bolts to push evenly against the bottom of the bench, spreading out the clamp surface making the mount solid as a rock.
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This will allow you to take your press with you anywhere if you need to load at the range, or loan it to a friend. Or if you want just one press, toss one under the bench.

Here is the extension I used on the RC. The second handle is in the origonal hole to show the difference in handle locations.
This allowed the press to be mounted inside the work surface, helping this klutz from dropping spent primers and all sorts of other goodies all over the floor.
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Why thanks!:) FWIW, anyone wondering about the goofy drop tube from the Lyman powder measure, I was having it plug repeatedly with only mid 50gr charges going thru it if the handle was lowered too fast. The factory bushing has a very small hole in it causing a bottleneck.

I grabbed a 300 RUM case, cut off the head and beveled the inside to reduce risk of trapping powder and viola, instant drop tube that has not once pluged up. Where's the dancing banana?
The neck was bumped up to .375" Then a 250 savage case was belled as much as possible and cut off from the head, then slid over the end of the 300 drop tube. Works great for .22 up to .321" cases.
Another case was cut off at the edge of the shoulder and can be slid over the drop tube for cases .308" right up to .430".

For the OP asking about lighting, I kind of cheated by putting pot lighting in the ceiling according to where the bench would be set. Two 60 watt bulbs and it is very well lit for all but photography. I have not needed a lamp anywhere with this current set up.
 
i have a 10'x3.5' bench have no shelving on it yet. the top is 2.5" thick so lots strong for the press. there is an 8' double tube flourecent light over top.i do all my powder work and bullet seating at the kitchen table as it has even better lighting.priming is done on the sofa while watching TV.for lighting check out the little 3-5 inch LED spot/work lights at princess auto.
 
Fluorescent lighting over the bench is a good idea, and I also keep a couple of those magnifying glass/lights around (old eyes, what can I say?) That really help. Like Noel I've made numerous drop tubes and funnels from various cases, depending on what I wanted to do. I like those metal mounts ideas though, have to put something like that together and give it a whirl. - dan
 
Here's another small setup

I envy you guys with the 10-foot benches. The only space I have is an old Black & Decker workbench that can fold if I want it to (but I leave it open cos its so small anyway). I don't have much bench space per se, but I made some ultra strong shelves for my boolits and a nice little box/cabinet thingy for the powder/primer storage.

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The inside of the box has more than enough space for my current needs. Powder and Primer in separate areas.

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Here's a shot of the box (to keep out the dust) for my RCBS scale. I'm thinking that a small LED light in there might help. I actually use the scale in the box on the spot there. No need to take it out and its at about eye-level when i'm sitting down.

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I'm especially proud of this base that I designed and a machinist buddy made for me. The presses slide in and out and only the base is bolted to the table. That aluminium is plenty strong and does not flex.
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When not in use, the other press just stows away conveniently on the shelf.
I have more equipment (moulds, dies, brass etc) in a separate cabinet

Hope you have some good ideas from the above.
 
Well i got everything set up, re-enforced the bench to kind of evenly redistribute the pressure/force. turns out the bench was not built as sturdy as I thought, more of a flat work SPACE than a purpose built reloading bench.

I will do a revamp with better materials later on though. Placing a 2x4 under the press, with longer bolts is #1.

Noel, you sir, are a genius.
I would like to get some plates with clamps like that built after seeing yours...

punched about 55 primers out of some .243 with no problem,except that the GD lee press has the primer catch on the opposite side as the chute/where they drop from. Looks like I'm mounting a funnel or cut down pop bottle.

trimmed the cases and seated a two sierras as a test run (sans powder or primer), to check OAL,mostly to make sure I was doing things half right.

God is this easy! why did you guys not get me doing it earlier? haha.
 
Thanks. I believe the base is large enough for most presses, or at least, the one I wanna get. Next press I need is one that makes shotgun slugs :)
 
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