Snider Chambering Problem

stevejones

stevejones

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I am having a problem with a Mk11 Snider. The cartridges will not chamber all the way in. When I push the cartridge into the chamber about a quarter inch from the rim is still sticking out. I believe it may be a lead build up but I cannot see anything. I have a Mk 111 sergeants model that chambers the cartridges fine.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers. Steve.
 
Get yourself a good little bendy light and have a look, might be a bit of split brass wedged up in there needing cleaned out/scraped out, or lead ring or a pile of a few things that can all be scraped away with a bit of effort an time.

Or maybe your brass needs to be further fit....unless you have the arm in hand to inspect it and the ammunition.... its all basically hypothesis
 
I see you have two Snider's.

Is your brass, fired or re-sized brass?

If fired, is it fire formed from the MKIII Snider?

As pointed out, only about three things that could be wrong as I see it.

Crud in chamber.

Overall length of bullet. (bullet touching the lands and grooves)

Brass resizing (are you using fire formed or re-sized brass)

I don't resize my brass and keep each batch seperated from Snider to Snider.
 
Well, its not a bullet seating problem as the cases will not chamber even without a bullet... I do not have dies so I'm just hand loading them. The cartridges were originally fire formed in the MK11. I'm going to get a flex light and a mirror to see if I have a crud or lead build up. I took a copper bristle brush and pushed it in and out of the chamber to see if I could break whatever is in there free but no luck. Maybe a dental pick will do the trick.

Cheers. Steve.
 
I have seen a couple chambered with a slight bottle neck usually sporting rifles or Nepalese ones but my 2 band Sargent's model had a slightly tighter chamber than my other ones and brass would not chamber in it once it had been fired in my 3band I think your chamber is just tighter in one so either new brass or a set of dies . Order some from C-H 4-D tool and die without the bottle neck if you can the lee ones put a bottle neck on the brass and so do the new c-h dies
 
Yes the Sargent's model has the faster twist mine did 1-48 mine shot very well . I think it was referred to as a short rifle not the Carbine as I said mine had a tighter chamber than my 3band
 
Hi Steve.
I likewise have several Mk2** Sniders. The chambers are definitely different, however even when keeping the brass segregated for use in only one gun, I regularly have to size the cases right down to the rim to get them the last 1/8" into the chamber. I made my own sizing dies for this and have to shove them in fully to the rim (no shell holder) then tap out with an aluminum dowel which has a releif pocket as to not damage the primer pocket. I am using mostly Magtech converted 24ga brass but also have had to do this on heavier RMC brass as well.
It also happens more predominately in one gun over the other.
Also to help locate the "tight" spot, try coating the outside of a case with black magic marker, let dry, then thumb frirmly into the chamber, remove and where the marker has been rubbed off shows where they are binding.
Best of Luck
Cheers
Jaguar
 
I just measured several original snider shells that I have and they appear to be several lengths ranging from a little over 1.5" up to almost 2". Of the short shells,(1.5 - 1.6") one appears to be a blank and has a paper body while two are empty brass cases and appear to be simply short. Of the long cases, (slightly less than 2") one is foil wrapped, two are standard brass cases but one is a shot shell with a round nosed paper slug presumably filled with shot. As mentioned earlier, I vaguely think I recall reading that the carbines kicked too much and a shorter lighter load was used in them. On the other hand I am too lazy to look for the info and my memory is foggy on a good day.

cheers mooncoon
 
So I think I have a leading problem plus...? I used a long steel pick and felt around the chamber. I can feel a build up around the area were the case mouth would be and got some lead particles after some careful scraping. Now whats the best way to get this lead out? I was thinking of using a dowel that is a tight fit in a spent case (I have some Berdan cases) and running it down the barrel into the case. Then apply a polishing compound on the case and then turning the case with a hand drill on the end of the dowel while pulling the case in and out of the chamber. I'm nervous of using emery cloth as I think it would be too abrasive. Perhaps someone has a better suggestion?

Cheers. Steve.
 
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