Whattup loosey goosey cooey?

mikeystew

mikeystew

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What's the deal with the single takedown screw on the cooeys? When my barreled action on my 75 is torqued down real tight in the stock it is still a little wiggley, as in i can slightly pry the barrel up out of the channel. Not much at all, but enough to know it annoys me.

Has anyone noticed that theirs does this? Im thinking of adding a second takedown screw forward on the stock where the sling swivel is and pilliar bedding them in. Anyone ever seen that done? Cause i just might do it. I think it would make it a better gun... not that it's not a good gun, but I think it could be better. Am i over complicating it? Probably... but thats how i operate.
 
take action out of stock.on the bottom should be a hex shaped stud that the acton screw goes into.turn this into the bottom of action some more (if possible).this will let action sit lower in stock so you should have more bearing surface between action and stock.
 
deadeyes40 said:
take action out of stock.on the bottom should be a hex shaped stud that the acton screw goes into.turn this into the bottom of action some more (if possible).this will let action sit lower in stock so you should have more bearing surface between action and stock.
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I did that already... Well sort of. It was originally bottoming out on the barrel so i cut 3 threads off the takedown screw to allow the reciever to seat snug. But the barrel and action channel is all wacky. I still think I may just go ahead and diddle with this gun some more.
 
i had a 75 that i STRONGLY considered modifying. i was going to drill and tap a second hole in the rear bottom of the reciever, and use a kind of unbedded pillar, inletted into the stock from the inside, and use a long rear trigger guard screw. I didn't bother, as shooting under an inch at 50 with irons was good enough for me (and an old cooey, i think :)
 
Well it shoots good enough but that's not the point. For me it's the fact that everytime I pick it up or put it down I can hear and feel the barrel squeak in the stock, and it's driving me nuts. I think first though I may try a shim under the barrel and then just epoxy bed it once it's under load to fill the void... Seems like a sound plan.
 
camster said:
Mine aren't wiggly...

You've already shortened the takedown screw and, it's still wiggly? Is it possible the stud is blocked (broken screw? Gunk? Ba threads?) preventing takedown screw from torquing in all the way?
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No, I've torqued it down with vise grips and still wiggly. Also all parts are nearly new as I just rust blued them. The elephant in the room to me is the slightly warped stock. I think it is just not cradling the barrel properly in the barrel channel.
 
deadeyes40 said:
it shouldn't cradle the barrel.barrel should be free floating when action is tightened down.
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Re-he-healy...??? Well mine isn't floating that's for sure.
Im not going to float a long barrel with one action screw... I'm either going to add a second screw or some upward pressure via a shim under the barrel.
 
I added a second action screw to mine. I welded a tab on the barrel and used the first trigger guard hole to thread it through.
 
Well I ended up floating it, after a very crude jb weld bedding job. It sure is an ugly bedding job as I don't take the same pride of craftsmanship in $60 experimental rifles, but holy unreal group shrinkage! I had no idea it was shooting bad before, but now it shoots ragged holes at 25m. Who woulda thunk it? The one action screw and shoddy bedding, she's a tack driver!
 
camster said:
all's well that...

You're actually a bedding job ahead as far as "tacks" go... My Cooey singles are the most accurate things in my safe.
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Right? I had no idea it could be any more accurate. Besides the accuracy though, this thing was a proverbial lemon and the wood was warped which seemed to cause all sorts of issues, not the least of which was a poor receiver to wood fit, and the forestock was rubbing the barrel on one side.

Mucho better now, I think I just may scope it yet...
 
my brother/father both have 75's with floating barrrels.i have a model 39 the barrel on it is also free floating and these rifles are the most accurate things in the safe.i have outshot guys shooting scoped target rifles with the 39 and irons(offhand/free standing of course).glad you got it tightened down.should have no isses now.
 
Originally Posted by camster
Mine aren't wiggly...

You've already shortened the takedown screw and, it's still wiggly? Is it possible the stud is blocked (broken screw? Gunk? Ba threads?) preventing takedown screw from torquing in all the way?
Click to expand...

mikeystew said:
No, I've torqued it down with vise grips and still wiggly. Also all parts are nearly new as I just rust blued them. The elephant in the room to me is the slightly warped stock. I think it is just not cradling the barrel properly in the barrel channel.
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I have the same problem!! And really me too I'm very annoyed with that. And still don't know what is the solution. The stud is ok, the threads are good... everything seems to be fine. Can the stock be warped??
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CIL said:
I have the same problem!! And really me too I'm very annoyed with that. And still don't know what is the solution. The stud is ok, the threads are good... everything seems to be fine. Can the stock be warped??
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That was my problem... It twisted and one side of the forestock was rubbing the barrel. I sanded out the channel to float it and bedded the action just in front of and behind the takedown screw. It sure is ugly but it works. I'm MUCH happier now. It's stiff as a goodmorning.
 
Exactly the same problem! If I close my hand on the forestock and barrel trying to "join" them together, there is some free play, but around of the takedown screw, the two things are snuggly fitted.
Thank you for the advise, I will try with sandpaper even if the channel may be look ugly after the job is done. Did you use some coumpound, epoxy or glue to bed the action?
 
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