375 H&H A-Bolt

Browning

I also have the Browning in a wood and blued configuration.I have been loading the 300 gr partitions for my hunting rounds and speers and Hornady's between 250 to 300 for paper punching.I love shooting this rifle.Adding a limbsaver recoil pad couldn't hurt and is in the works,it is much more pleasant to shoot than some of the 30 and 338 cals cals I have loaded with max loads.The 300's lay a world of hurt on everything I have shot as well.Good for everything that walks the face of the earth :sniper:
 
irishbandit1 said:
I also have the Browning in a wood and blued configuration.I have been loading the 300 gr partitions for my hunting rounds and speers and Hornady's between 250 to 300 for paper punching.I love shooting this rifle.Adding a limbsaver recoil pad couldn't hurt and is in the works,it is much more pleasant to shoot than some of the 30 and 338 cals cals I have loaded with max loads.The 300's lay a world of hurt on everything I have shot as well.Good for everything that walks the face of the earth :sniper:
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What is the barrel length of your gun?
My barrel is at 26 inches right now and I am considering cutting it down.
 
NB444 said:
What is the barrel length of your gun?
My barrel is at 26 inches right now and I am considering cutting it down.
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NB444, I was thinking the same thing. As I understand it, the .375 H&H doesn't require a terribly long tube to perform well.
 
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Supercub what muzzle/impact velocity were your 260gr Accubonds that hit that bull I ask because I have never recovered one from either my 375JDJ = 2300fps or my 375RUM = 3020fps and I would like a reference point?

My Sako Hunter IV in 375H&H that my buddy now owns had a very handy 22" barrel I loaded 300gr Partitions @ 2450fps.

I never had one of these Partitions exit a moose and the front core always separated they are designed to retain 60% of their original weight just like Accubonds.

I have been thinking about getting a single shot T/C Encore/Prohunter in 375H&H and having the barrel shortened to 22" if I did I believe I would load one bullet = Barnes 250gr TTSX @ 2650 - 2700fps if it isn't accurate enough I would look at the 260gr Accubonds.

CC
 
Thanks...

Using my ballistic calculator your 2700fps muzzle velocity gives an appr impact velocity @ 100 yards of 2500fps = I like how those bullets performed at that velocity.
 
NB444,

Guess what I ended up with? :) Yup, a Mossy Oak A-Bolt in .375 H&H. What a beautiful rifle! It shoots really well, and I agree that the recoil is not too punishing.

I absolutely love it. Good call! ;)

PS - Ardent - I decided I couldn't afford the Ruger RSI...maybe someday. :redface:
 
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Jeff/1911 said:
NB444,

Guess what I ended up with? :) Yup, a Mossy Oak A-Bolt in .375 H&H. What a beautiful rifle! It shoots really well, and I agree that the recoil is not too punishing.

I absolutely love it. Good call! ;)

PS - Ardent - I decided I couldn't afford the Ruger RSI...maybe someday. :redface:
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Thought you would like it. :) I recently put a limbsaver pad on mine, it make it that much more fun to shoot.
 
NB444 said:
Thought you would like it. :) I recently put a limbsaver pad on mine, it make it that much more fun to shoot.
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Hey, that sounds like a wonderful idea. :) Was it difficult to get the factory pad off? Also, were you able to find one that was prefit for the rifle, or did you have to gring it to fit the stock?

Jeff.
 
Jeff/1911 said:
Hey, that sounds like a wonderful idea. :) Was it difficult to get the factory pad off? Also, were you able to find one that was prefit for the rifle, or did you have to gring it to fit the stock?

Jeff.
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It was very easy, just 2 screws. Just use some liquid soap or petroleum jelly to keep from chewing up the pads with the screwdriver. Use the Limbsaver pad to get an idea where the screws are in the original pad and remove the old and install the new. It’s a very simple job.
The Limbsaver part # is 10002; it is a pre-fit and looks original when complete.
One thing to keep in mind is that the original pad is actually ¼ inch longer than you think it is and retains that ¼ inch camo pattern from the stock. I made the mistake of trying to separate the pad from the stock where the camo and black meet. I found it easier to smack the old pad on the side a couple of times to help release it after taking out the screws.
 
NB444 said:
It was very easy, just 2 screws. Just use some liquid soap or petroleum jelly to keep from chewing up the pads with the screwdriver. Use the Limbsaver pad to get an idea where the screws are in the original pad and remove the old and install the new. It’s a very simple job.
The Limbsaver part # is 10002; it is a pre-fit and looks original when complete.
One thing to keep in mind is that the original pad is actually ¼ inch longer than you think it is and retains that ¼ inch camo pattern from the stock. I made the mistake of trying to separate the pad from the stock where the camo and black meet. I found it easier to smack the old pad on the side a couple of times to help release it after taking out the screws.
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Thank you very much for the guidance. :)
 
Gibbs505 said:
Try IMR4350 and similiar speed powders. With the large bore in relation to the cartridge, medium speed powders like this do best.
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Any experience with RL-15 in a 375? It seems that RL-15 and the above mentioned IMR4350 come up frequently as recommended powders.
 
NB444 said:
Any experience with RL-15 in a 375? It seems that RL-15 and the above mentioned IMR4350 come up frequently as recommended powders.
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I dug out the speer manuel #12. It has the following

IMR4350 80-84C 2756 fps

IMR4831 81-85C 2696 fps

H414 82-86C 2662 fps

IMR4064 69-73C 2658 fps

H380 74-78C 2654 fps

760 82-86C 2640 fps


These were the top loads for the speer 285 GS Bullet. I would look for fresh data if I where you.
 
NB444 said:
It was very easy, just 2 screws. Just use some liquid soap or petroleum jelly to keep from chewing up the pads with the screwdriver. Use the Limbsaver pad to get an idea where the screws are in the original pad and remove the old and install the new. It’s a very simple job.
The Limbsaver part # is 10002; it is a pre-fit and looks original when complete.
One thing to keep in mind is that the original pad is actually ¼ inch longer than you think it is and retains that ¼ inch camo pattern from the stock. I made the mistake of trying to separate the pad from the stock where the camo and black meet. I found it easier to smack the old pad on the side a couple of times to help release it after taking out the screws.
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Hi NB444,

My stock pad doesn't appear to have any holes in it. Did yours look like this too? :confused:
 
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