40sw crimp.

Kc.338Lp

Kc.338Lp

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Ok , just got a reloading press about a week or so ago , all in all ive made 2 dummy rounds .

Following the videos on youtube , the instructions in my rcbs die sets , other information on the internet i still have a very confusing issue..

And it pertains to how the hell do i tell how much crimp is on my 40 and how much is too much .. from what i understand you just want to take the bell out and your suppose to feel it gone. and then a quick set back test to make sure the round doesnt move OAL of 1.130 .

both of my dummy rounds chambered first time and extracted just fine and headspace fine with my barrel but im still concerned once i get into loading real cartridges that i might put an excessive crimp (or worry that i have).

So what do you do to avoid such an issue ?
 
Are you single stage or progressive loading? Are you seating and crimping in one step? If you are progressive loading, then it might be a good idea to get a taper crimp die for the stage after your bullet seater and back the bullet seater/roll crimp up a bit so it doesn't get involved.

If you are single stage loading, it would be slow as hell to do it in two steps. I'd say just adjust it so your fingernail doesn't snag on the rim... Just a little bit of crimp and try it.. if the case is blackened by soot, maybe try it a tiny bit more to help build pressure. Work up until it stops sooting.

I'm no expert, I've been reloading for years and I am most definitely constantly learning too.

p.s. I single stage loaded .40 for IPSC last year :)
 
I use a lee factory size die for all my pistol ammo, very easy to adjust the crimp and fixes minor case bulges and what not after you have loaded the round, I found it especially good for 45 auto and have not had a chambering concern since. Hope this helps, it works for me.
 
just crimpit till it at or about the saami dimensions listed in your reloading manual. another way is hold it up to a straight edge, mouth should be parallel not tipped in (too much) or belled out (not enough crimp).
hope this helps
Andy
 
Yes for this im using a single stage , i didnt want to go progressive my first time . Im using a set of 40sw/10mm Rcbs carbide dies and im trying to set it up so it crimps and seats in the same stage .

I compared it do a factory round and the factory round seems to have a bit more of a lip that i can feel with my fingernail than my dummy rounds but i cannot see any bullet deformation , which i was told is indicative of too much criimp.

I dont currently have a reloading manual , which is why i only made the dummy rounds.

But basically from what ive read is OAL is 1.130 , max is 1.132 , mouth is suppose to be 0.42 or 0.43 (sammi max spec) , i plan to start off 4 grains of bullseye and a 180 grain jacketed projectile and finished with a roll crimp .

I also have the ability with my die to taper crimp but i havnt tested it out yet .
 
Well.. you must first and foremost get a FEW reloading manuals and read the introductory reloading info in each. That is where you really need to start! From there you can begin your load development. Always start 10% BELOW the recommended max load and work up from there.
Another bonus would be to seek out an experienced reloader at your local club and have them help you out. This type of first hand, hands-on knowledge is invaluable.

Regards,
 
.40S&W head spaces on the mouth of the case and you cannot use a roll crimp. it must be taper crimped and there must be some case left to catch with a fingernail so the round head spacces correctly.
 
.418" or about .004 under str works on 9 38su 40 45 you must use a taper crimp. the lee is super for this , it won't let you over crimp.
 
I wouldn't crimp 40 S&W too much below .421", as it may not headspace properly on the case mouth during chambering depending on the gun. .423" is SAAMI spec.

Are you using a micrometer or at least good quality calipers to measure crimp and other dimensions of your loads?
 
my best advice i can give you is find someone near you that reloads and get them to show you hands on reloading can be dangerous if not done properly
 
Skyhawk said:
I wouldn't crimp 40 S&W too much below .421", as it may not headspace properly on the case mouth during chambering depending on the gun. .423" is SAAMI spec.

Are you using a micrometer or at least good quality calipers to measure crimp and other dimensions of your loads?
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Yes i have a good micrometer , i tested it out on my dummy rounds and they headspaced and chambered perfectly .

Ive seen enough videos and read enough information online that i feel comfortable doing reloading with just the one load ive been given from a friend who loads 40 for now anyway my reloading manual is in the mail .

180 grain jacketed projectile with 4.5 grains of bullseye .
 
Kc.338Lp said:
i feel comfortable doing reloading with just the one load ive been given from a friend who loads 40 for now anyway
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Go for it. But one piece of advice. I generally get my wife to first shoot my more creative recipes while I hang out behind the berm or under the table in the safety area.

In all seriousness now, as long as you're within the range that the online powder manufacturers provide and starting on the lower side, you really don't have anything to worry about so long as you set up your dies properly (OAL, etc.) and measure the power again every now and then. I also would suggest a chrono is important if you're developing pistol loads that make power factor for IPSC or IPDA. Otherwise, just load to make your rounds less snappy than factory while cycling reliably and being as accurate as you are. There's no sense in beating up your gun for nothing.
 
Basically to start off im just loading something for basic run of the mill paper punching so i dont have to buy factory ammo all the time .

If anyone wants to share from their manuals in the mean time 165 , 180 and 185 grain loads for jacketed projectiles using bullseye powder im all ears lol.
 
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