Im sure there is a thread in here somewhere about it, but im not going to spend hours looking through them. Question is, i was gonna buy a 10/22 for $229 at wholesale sports and im being told that the cheaper ones are really unreliable and jam ALL the time. Is that true? i can understand you get what you pay for but are they really that bad?
10/22 question
- Thread starter Mandown!
- Start date
10/22s are, as a rule, quite reliable out of the box with their own factory magazines, or with Butler Creek Steel lips magazines (heard good things about Tactical Innovations magazines too, but only second hand). Low end ones are just as reliable as higher end ones.
They're not tack drivers though, especially if you're used to bolt guns.
They're not tack drivers though, especially if you're used to bolt guns.
A 10/22 is a 10/22 regardless of the trim level. You pay more for better stock material, or barrel options but the reciever and base parts are all the same. These parts are the only ones that effect reliabilty.
Like Whamo mentioned, if using the factory 10 rd mag, you will have years of reliable fun.
Like Whamo mentioned, if using the factory 10 rd mag, you will have years of reliable fun.
jlovie
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Sorry, should clarif my statement. If you search for one thing on the 10/22, you are guarenteed to find out a bunch of other stuff you haven't thought about yet. Besides that, I can't add to what has already been said
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
The more important question you should be asking is how does it group?
The standard models didn't cut it for me in that department. Even the tactical target model with a Hogue stock, and 16 inch hammer forger barrel, is tuff to get good groups out of with the crappy trigger.
I upgraded the hammer to a Volquartsen and that helped quite a bit.
I just put my 10/22 Tactical Target up for sale, with a Bushnell banner 3-9 x 40 for cheaper than you will pay for the standard model and a cheap scope.
PM me.
The standard models didn't cut it for me in that department. Even the tactical target model with a Hogue stock, and 16 inch hammer forger barrel, is tuff to get good groups out of with the crappy trigger.
I upgraded the hammer to a Volquartsen and that helped quite a bit.
I just put my 10/22 Tactical Target up for sale, with a Bushnell banner 3-9 x 40 for cheaper than you will pay for the standard model and a cheap scope.
PM me.
It sure wasn't the "most important" question when I bought my 10/22's.
I have bolt action .22's than can handle the accuracy department if need be.
I just wanted a cheap bullet hose to put a red dot on and waste an insane amount of ammunition with.
Since the OP asked about reliability first and foremost, I have to give the 10/22 an excellent rating in any configuration.
But ya, its not really a target rifle by any stretch.
It sure wasn't the "most important" question when I bought my 10/22's.
I have bolt action .22's than can handle the accuracy department if need be.
I just wanted a cheap bullet hose to put a red dot on and waste an insane amount of ammunition with.
Since the OP asked about reliability first and foremost, I have to give the 10/22 an excellent rating in any configuration.
But ya, its not really a target rifle by any stretch.
There are way better options if you want cheap. I realize I'm sounding like a broken record, but for under $200 I know of a couple semi auto guns that are extremely accurate, equally reliable, have last shot bolt hold open, and do not need to have anything replaced to make it shoot like a rifle should.
Marlin model 60 or model 795. Extremely underrated and underpriced guns. Both my 60ss and 70pss (papoose) will shoot under 3/4" at 50m with a 4x bushnell banner scope from a bench. My 60's iron sights are so good that even without a scope it is easy for me to keep 50m groups under 1.5", even after considering the "flyers".
They also NEVER jam or misfeed. I think my 60 has only jammed twice in over 3000 rounds of CCI standard velocity, and it was right after i cleaned it and it was running dry, about 3 bricks in. I've only had to clean it once in all that time, and it still shoots amazingly tight groups... exactly as good of a shooter as my 925 bolt action... but semi auto.
If WSS told you you need to spend more on a 10/22 to get a reliable one, they're full of sh*t. If they didn't tell you that, then I take back that sentiment.
Stick with the 10 rd. rotary/factory mags and you'll have no troubles. I hate shooting guns with mags hanging out of the the stock anyway, and it rules-out shooting prone~which I like to do sometimes.
I sold my 10/22 last year, and may never buy another. Absolutely the WORST trigger of any gun I've ever used. The trigger on my daughter's $30 Daisy Red Ryder is better...and lighter. My next, and arguably, only .22 semi I may ever own is the Marlin 795. Unless I hit the lottery...a T/C Benchmark might be added to the list.
Stick with the 10 rd. rotary/factory mags and you'll have no troubles. I hate shooting guns with mags hanging out of the the stock anyway, and it rules-out shooting prone~which I like to do sometimes.
I sold my 10/22 last year, and may never buy another. Absolutely the WORST trigger of any gun I've ever used. The trigger on my daughter's $30 Daisy Red Ryder is better...and lighter. My next, and arguably, only .22 semi I may ever own is the Marlin 795. Unless I hit the lottery...a T/C Benchmark might be added to the list.
I think the most important thing for the OP to consider is whether he wants a not so precise "bullet hose" that can be tweaked to look like an assault rifle, and might require multiple upgrades in the pursuit of accuracy, but can accept several after market 25 round mags, but will cost much much more.
Or...
Whether he wants an affordable semi .22 that functions flawlessly and is very, very nearly as accurate as a quality bolt action rifle, but does not have much in the way of aftermarket "upgrades" and only accepts factory built and widely available 7 and 10 round mags, but does have many features already built into the rifle that the ruger does not... for less money than the 10/22.
Or...
Whether he wants an affordable semi .22 that functions flawlessly and is very, very nearly as accurate as a quality bolt action rifle, but does not have much in the way of aftermarket "upgrades" and only accepts factory built and widely available 7 and 10 round mags, but does have many features already built into the rifle that the ruger does not... for less money than the 10/22.
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- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
Savage model 64 comes to mind.
Problem or benefit(depends how you look at it) with the Ruger is the aftermarket parts availability, and the neverending add ons you can buy.
Problem or benefit(depends how you look at it) with the Ruger is the aftermarket parts availability, and the neverending add ons you can buy.
$229 is a great price, buy it!
the question is "do you REALLY need the special chrome cup holders in ALL four seats?- " if you look at the way these things are manufactured, the only diff is in the options ( the stock and maybe the barrel) and the finish- well, finish doesn't help your SHOOTING, and why spend money for NO BENEFIT?- i've got a dead stock 10/22 left over from the 80's that i'm intending on "tricking out" that was 239 back then- they don't pick out the "special " ones and then spend time with the smiths stoning the sears and smoothing the triggers- not like the way s&w does - they're CRANKED out and as long as the hammer falls, they're gtg
Buy it, fire it and enjoy it. If you want to make something else you can. More aftermarket kit available than you wave a stick!
I have one, and its one of my favourite's. The trigger is poor, but that can be changed, and in so many ways.
Stock out the box, they are reliable. I have stuck to mainly copper coated rounds, but in reality it eats everything. There is the occasional 'stovepipe', but this is normally associated with a poor grip.
Buy it, and enjoy!
Candocad.
I have one, and its one of my favourite's. The trigger is poor, but that can be changed, and in so many ways.
Stock out the box, they are reliable. I have stuck to mainly copper coated rounds, but in reality it eats everything. There is the occasional 'stovepipe', but this is normally associated with a poor grip.
Buy it, and enjoy!
Candocad.
Poor grip on a pistol can cause a stovepipe alright, but your grip on a rifle would have to be impossibly poor to cause a stovepipe, especially with a .22. Stovepipes in a rifle are normally associated with poor feed lips or feed ramp angles, or improper bullet shape/design for the action such as truncated cone and large hollowpoints.
Cheers
