My SKS
- Thread starter Fyn
- Start date
Mostly just some elbow grease and a spare stock. If you would like I could do a brief write up?
....i hate it when people mess with perfection.....I hate it more when it looks better than perfection when they mess with it! Sh1t
Haha I think that's good?
umcoles said:
those were actually done at 100.
7mmlefty and luke s, thanks for the kind words, keep me posted on both your projects
Last edited:
- Location
- Alberta Free State
X2. I got lucky with my recent first SKS. Palm-size groups of 5 at 100 first time out, with a couple of flyers before I got used to the trigger. Pie plate groups at 200 later on, all with iron sights and bifocals on a windy day. Nothing wrong with that rifle.
Maybe the Russians who built it had some pride in their work? Whatever the reason, results were much better than expected.
- Location
- London Ontario
I took mine out today for the first time- completely stock (I LOVE the look of the OP's btw, and wish to use mine for hunting, so I'll be taking copious notes from this), all my rounds at 50 yds were palm-sized with just a few strays while I got it lined up. As a precision rifle it leaves a lot to be desired, but they were all kill-shots.
here is my thread
the spare cut off stock really needs that folder
that will look great with the folder
Exactly, our camp is in pretty close hardwood, and basically all shots are taken under 100 yards, with 90% being much less than 75 yards. At those distances, combined with an easy handling rifle it should get the job done.
Yes Please....I'll do a winter project on my Chinese...if i can find a spare stock off EE for less than $1000
Still non restricted, I'll try to get an actual measurement for you. I'll get a write up in the next few days going. You can check EE for the folder (just a surplus VZ58 stock), I know Wolverine has them (in the VZ accessories page).
- Location
- Alberta, let freedom reign!
Nice looking stock. Good job OP.
I am looking at doing a similar project.
I wanted an East German AK wire folder but they have become very pricey, so I bought an 858 folder off the EE as well. It will be interesting to see how these projects compare.
ct
I wanted an East German AK wire folder but they have become very pricey, so I bought an 858 folder off the EE as well. It will be interesting to see how these projects compare.
ct
I had a couple people contact me in regards to the folding stock, and what exactly I did. I've been promising a write up for a few weeks due to computer problems, but hopefully this helps out whoever was interested.
To answer a few questions about the stock:
-the length of a sks barreled action is somewhere between 29-30", so no need to be concerned of classification issues
-my stock folds to about 31"
-based on feel, the folder seems slightly heavier than the original (obv due to steel vs. wood)
-LOP is very close to the original
Pros: obviously it folds (I believe the factory overall length is somewhere around 40", so your losing closing to 10"), it is quite comfortable and points easily, feels alot more "fun", very solid (feels like it would hold up to a good amount of abuse), maintains the ability to strip down the rifle without tools, different from what is commercially available, looks pretty gnarly
Cons: a little on the heavy side, the vz stock isn't exactly soft on the cheek, nothing really serious though
*this was by no means an exact science, to be honest I did very little measuring during building this stock, I just went by feel and ergonomics. Furthermore, you may find different ways of accomplishing the same thing, I realize everyone may not have access to certain tools, there is ways around certain steps. Whatever I did, I did for functionality and stength, and I will say, this thing feels pretty damn solid. Please ignore the finish, consider this sort of a rough draft. Obviously take care and safely handle your firearms as well as your tools*
Components
-factory wooden sks stock (I used the hardwood stock)
-factory cz858/vz58 folder
-factory ak pistol grip (I used a factory bakelite Romanian surplus)
-some 1/8" flat stock
-1/4" threaded rod
-various hardware/fasteners
Tools
-Chisels
-Saw
-Welder
-Angle grinder w/ cut off wheel
Step 1
You need to decide where exactly you are going to cut off the original butt stock. Things to keep in mind, leave enough room for your pistol grip, don't go too far back as well (as further down the original stock grip will affect your cheek weld, as the comb will drop). You also need to start reworking the original stock grip, so it follows the same line (ie; goes straight back, as opposed to dropping for the original grip). I did this PRIOR to cutting off the buttstock. This will enable you to place the trigger group in the new stock and gauge how far back the pistol grip will go. Once you have that figured out, mark and cut the buttstock off. NOTE: always do a couple of trial test/fits before cutting! Here's a vague example of what your working with:
Step 2
Now you will have the stock, that is more of a stump. I extended the recess for the trigger group to the rear to form sort of a channel (this will enable my adapter for the folder and the pistol grip to sit flush with the surface of the original stock. I used a chisel for this. Sorry I don't have a picture of this, but you will see from the more completed pics.
Step 3
Start making the adapter. I used 1/8" steel flat stock, it's not too thick, not too thin. The adapter will serve as the attachment for the folder and the pg to the original stock. This will not only be stronger than just securing the parts to the original wood, it will also last. Threads going into metal are obviously going to be stronger than going into wood, after removing components several times, screws going into the original wood are going to strip out. With the adapter this isn't a concern, you can also get much more torque on the fasteners for a more solid construction. I cut two pieces of steel, one piece to cover the rear (where the butt was cut off, following the layout of cut) and another piece to fit in the channel by the trigger group. The factory VZ folder bolt is a fine thread, not commonly available in nuts or taps. So I got a similar bolt for a fastener store (this will cost pocket change), I believe it was a 3/8", with the appropriate size head and taper (with an allan drive). Either buy a few sizes, or bring the stock to find the appropriate head (otherwise your folder won't properly open and lock). I would stay at 3/8" diameter, going to big will limit you. I drilled a 3/8" in the center of the adapter, and welded a 3/8" nut to the inside (I ground the sides/corners off of the nut to limit the space needed). I then welded the other adapter piece to the rear section. I drilled a hole in the rear of the stock, to accept the nut (probably around half inch, keep it as small as possible to avoid weakening the wood). I then drilled to holes and countersunk to accept screws to hold the rear of the adapter to the wood (drill pilot holes in the wood, to accept the screws. Otherwise your going to split your stock). I drilled another hole in the bottom section, to fasten the adapter in the trigger channel. This will make for a solid shoulder stock and pistol grip. Then I welded a piece of thread rod onto the bottom of the adapter to secure the pistol grip. Why thread rod and not a screw like a factory ak grip? Because I secured the pistol grip to the stock via a wing nut (if I was to finish this stock, it would be replaced by a knurled nut for aesthetics), this enables me to take down the rifle without tools (the pg needs to come off in order to remove the trigger group, with a screw you would need a driver). Obviously not a huge deal, but this was important to me. A couple things to keep in mind, when designing the adpater, a notch will be needed in the top to keep the folder centered. The factory ak grip has a notch in the front, where it meets the trigger. You may need to widen this slightly to fit the sks trigger guard. I highly suggest locating the grip snug to the guard, this will keep the grip from rotating. You will need to slightly open the hole in the bottom of the grip to fit the threaded rod. The left side of the adapter will also need to be trimmed slightly in order to use the sling point on the folder. Here is some pics of the adapter assembled on the wood to illustrate these points:
heres the bolt you need:
the notch needs for the folder:
and the notch/groove in the pistol grip
Well I think thats pretty much it folks, sorry for the lengthy descriptions, I just want to give people as much help as possible. Remember, measure twice, cut once!
To answer a few questions about the stock:
-the length of a sks barreled action is somewhere between 29-30", so no need to be concerned of classification issues
-my stock folds to about 31"
-based on feel, the folder seems slightly heavier than the original (obv due to steel vs. wood)
-LOP is very close to the original
Pros: obviously it folds (I believe the factory overall length is somewhere around 40", so your losing closing to 10"), it is quite comfortable and points easily, feels alot more "fun", very solid (feels like it would hold up to a good amount of abuse), maintains the ability to strip down the rifle without tools, different from what is commercially available, looks pretty gnarly
Cons: a little on the heavy side, the vz stock isn't exactly soft on the cheek, nothing really serious though
*this was by no means an exact science, to be honest I did very little measuring during building this stock, I just went by feel and ergonomics. Furthermore, you may find different ways of accomplishing the same thing, I realize everyone may not have access to certain tools, there is ways around certain steps. Whatever I did, I did for functionality and stength, and I will say, this thing feels pretty damn solid. Please ignore the finish, consider this sort of a rough draft. Obviously take care and safely handle your firearms as well as your tools*
Components
-factory wooden sks stock (I used the hardwood stock)
-factory cz858/vz58 folder
-factory ak pistol grip (I used a factory bakelite Romanian surplus)
-some 1/8" flat stock
-1/4" threaded rod
-various hardware/fasteners
Tools
-Chisels
-Saw
-Welder
-Angle grinder w/ cut off wheel
Step 1
You need to decide where exactly you are going to cut off the original butt stock. Things to keep in mind, leave enough room for your pistol grip, don't go too far back as well (as further down the original stock grip will affect your cheek weld, as the comb will drop). You also need to start reworking the original stock grip, so it follows the same line (ie; goes straight back, as opposed to dropping for the original grip). I did this PRIOR to cutting off the buttstock. This will enable you to place the trigger group in the new stock and gauge how far back the pistol grip will go. Once you have that figured out, mark and cut the buttstock off. NOTE: always do a couple of trial test/fits before cutting! Here's a vague example of what your working with:
Step 2
Now you will have the stock, that is more of a stump. I extended the recess for the trigger group to the rear to form sort of a channel (this will enable my adapter for the folder and the pistol grip to sit flush with the surface of the original stock. I used a chisel for this. Sorry I don't have a picture of this, but you will see from the more completed pics.
Step 3
Start making the adapter. I used 1/8" steel flat stock, it's not too thick, not too thin. The adapter will serve as the attachment for the folder and the pg to the original stock. This will not only be stronger than just securing the parts to the original wood, it will also last. Threads going into metal are obviously going to be stronger than going into wood, after removing components several times, screws going into the original wood are going to strip out. With the adapter this isn't a concern, you can also get much more torque on the fasteners for a more solid construction. I cut two pieces of steel, one piece to cover the rear (where the butt was cut off, following the layout of cut) and another piece to fit in the channel by the trigger group. The factory VZ folder bolt is a fine thread, not commonly available in nuts or taps. So I got a similar bolt for a fastener store (this will cost pocket change), I believe it was a 3/8", with the appropriate size head and taper (with an allan drive). Either buy a few sizes, or bring the stock to find the appropriate head (otherwise your folder won't properly open and lock). I would stay at 3/8" diameter, going to big will limit you. I drilled a 3/8" in the center of the adapter, and welded a 3/8" nut to the inside (I ground the sides/corners off of the nut to limit the space needed). I then welded the other adapter piece to the rear section. I drilled a hole in the rear of the stock, to accept the nut (probably around half inch, keep it as small as possible to avoid weakening the wood). I then drilled to holes and countersunk to accept screws to hold the rear of the adapter to the wood (drill pilot holes in the wood, to accept the screws. Otherwise your going to split your stock). I drilled another hole in the bottom section, to fasten the adapter in the trigger channel. This will make for a solid shoulder stock and pistol grip. Then I welded a piece of thread rod onto the bottom of the adapter to secure the pistol grip. Why thread rod and not a screw like a factory ak grip? Because I secured the pistol grip to the stock via a wing nut (if I was to finish this stock, it would be replaced by a knurled nut for aesthetics), this enables me to take down the rifle without tools (the pg needs to come off in order to remove the trigger group, with a screw you would need a driver). Obviously not a huge deal, but this was important to me. A couple things to keep in mind, when designing the adpater, a notch will be needed in the top to keep the folder centered. The factory ak grip has a notch in the front, where it meets the trigger. You may need to widen this slightly to fit the sks trigger guard. I highly suggest locating the grip snug to the guard, this will keep the grip from rotating. You will need to slightly open the hole in the bottom of the grip to fit the threaded rod. The left side of the adapter will also need to be trimmed slightly in order to use the sling point on the folder. Here is some pics of the adapter assembled on the wood to illustrate these points:
heres the bolt you need:
the notch needs for the folder:
and the notch/groove in the pistol grip
Well I think thats pretty much it folks, sorry for the lengthy descriptions, I just want to give people as much help as possible. Remember, measure twice, cut once!
- Location
- London Ontario
Keep us updated on how you do with the deer
without going back through the thread, how are you mounting your scope?
without going back through the thread, how are you mounting your scope?
