Hornady 7.62x39 with ballistic tip at LeBaron

Hornady Ammo

Should be more accurate than the army surplus stuff.

Well not so sure about that. Today I fired a box of the Hornady ammo (50 rounds) out of a new Sino- SKS (chrome barrel etc). 10 round Groups were 8-10 inches at 100 yards. Could barely keep rounds on the paper. I then went back to Czech corrosive ammo and fired 60 rounds. 10 round groups were 3 to 4 inches at 100 yards. Beats me why. My gun doesn't like the Hornady ammo.
 
Im gonna pick up a few boxes of the hornady loaded 7.62 x39 if they have them in stock?,.. when I pick up my pre ordered case of Russian corrosive ammo.

Hope they shoot well out of my new 1950 Russian unchromed.

Should be fun... no matter what.:D
 
Sounds like someone needs to RTFRM! If you want to shoot 150 grain use a reloading manual to find a proper load. Pulling a 123gr bullet and seating a 150 gr bullet over the same powder charge is asking for trouble, especially in a small case like the x39.
 
If you are going to replace a 123gn FMJ with a 150gn SP, then you will need to remove some powder. I wanted to do the same but with an unknown powder that can be dangerous. So, I checked the manual and in almost every case there was a difference of 2-3 gns when you moved up to the 150gn. So, I removed 5gns and worked up from there, same as if I was working up any other load.
My rifles like losing 1.5gns of the original powder and shoot quite accurately. Less than that and I was observing signs of pressure. Now I simply dump out the powder, remeasure, and do up 50 at a time. I started out re-using 150gn bullets from milsurp X54R that I also replaced the bullets in for hunting, then just sighted in with those, shot to get comfortable with the rifle and round, then zeroed with the 20 SP tips, saving 10 or so each year for hunting. When I need more, I have them. Several hundred of the same lots
 
I finally shot my 7.62x39 hunting ammo into duct seal today. The top bullet is the Hornady SST and the bottom is the S&B SP. Both penetrated about 12cm and the cavitys where about equal. The S&B bullet held together in a perfect mushroom, while the SST fragmented about 40% of it's weight. I shot a fmj at the block, but it just blew right through.
 

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I finally shot my 7.62x39 hunting ammo into duct seal today. The top bullet is the Hornady SST and the bottom is the S&B SP. Both penetrated about 12cm and the cavitys where about equal. The S&B bullet held together in a perfect mushroom, while the SST fragmented about 40% of it's weight. I shot a fmj at the block, but it just blew right through.

Thats only 4-3/4 inches of material.

What is duct seal, and how thick was it, to stop an expandable bullet so short, but lets a fmj bullet pass right through?.
 
Thats only 4-3/4 inches of material.

What is duct seal, and how thick was it, to stop an expandable bullet so short, but lets a fmj bullet pass right through?.


It's a thick play-doh like material. Here is a photo where duct seal is used to test the penetration of a BB.

It's probably denser than gelatine hence why it only went in only 4-3/4". I'm sure a little more Googling will reveal the coefficient between duck seal and ballistic gel.
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The block I shot was about 9" thick weighing 60lbs. It stops all expanding bullets as far as I can tell. We've shot .300 win mags with 165gr Barnes X at 3100fps. They bulged the back, but it held. My uncle has had the block for years. He said it asbestos and heavy mineral oil.
 
hmm, i may have to pick up a couple of blocks of it the next time i'm at the suppliers.

though i still like gelatin powder as you can see the expansion and mayhem!
 
If you are going to replace a 123gn FMJ with a 150gn SP, then you will need to remove some powder. I wanted to do the same but with an unknown powder that can be dangerous. So, I checked the manual and in almost every case there was a difference of 2-3 gns when you moved up to the 150gn. So, I removed 5gns and worked up from there, same as if I was working up any other load.
My rifles like losing 1.5gns of the original powder and shoot quite accurately. Less than that and I was observing signs of pressure.

Noted.. Thanks for the heads up.
The action on the sks is a strong one, but the casing and primer may be the weaker.:(
 
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