Cleaning and maintenance: anyone tried CLP Break Free?

Forget hot water

1). Forget the Windex which in 95% water regardless.
2.) Hot water.
3.) Heat from the hot water = self drying.
4.) Clean with whatever solvent you prefer (I like CLP).
5.) No need to lubricate with oil if CLP is used.
6.) No rust problems with my SKS using above method.

Hot water causes flash rust.
Corrosive salts are most effectively cleaned by water AND soap.

Windex is soap and water.

Windex also has ammonia D (it is NOT ammonia) that acts as a dessicant which prevents flash rust.

Windex - less work , more effective.
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:ar15:
 
Hot water causes flash rust.
Corrosive salts are most effectively cleaned by water AND soap.

Windex is soap and water.

Windex also has ammonia D (it is NOT ammonia) that acts as a dessicant which prevents flash rust.

Windex - less work , more effective.
swingerlh.gif

:ar15:

I always used how water...I wasn't aware of flash rust..something to consider.

Interesting info on Windex. So how much do you rinse the barrel down with?
 
no it doesnt if you run a patch right after .

If you are quick enough you hide the rust. Tests on MANY oils have shown that they cover the rust (which eventually grows). There are only a few that are true moisture displacers.
In any case - more work using hot water - Why bother?

Windex is more effective, is cheap, has a dessicant AND REQUIRES LESS EFFORT.

:ar15:
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There is one advantage to hot water -

The heat opens the pores of the metal and softens the dirt.
Thats why I clean at the range immediately after shooting - while the barrel is hot. (no mess at home either).

If you are a hot water afficiando - heat up the windex (you dont have to add soap) :p

:ar15:
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my tests shown that the water doesnt have to be heated to flush out the corrosive chemical .

hot water , room temperature water, windex will all do the job .
 
I've often wondered why use hot water, windex or whatever else? I'm not doubting that it works, I use the windex myself and have no visible signs of corrosion or rust anywhere. But, wouldn't your solvent, whichever one you use, work just as well?
 
The advantage something like Windex has over plain water is that it is also a degreaser. It does a better job of removing dirt that might be concealing salt residue.

The salt residue from corrosive primers is polar and thus needs a polar liquid to dissolve it, like water or any water-based cleaner. Regular petroleum-based cleaning solvents are non-polar and do not dissolve the salts. Remember, like dissolves like.
 
I use boiling hot water because it disappears nice and quick. That's just the beginning. I use any given cleaner and brush the hell out of it (with a chrome lined barrel I'm not too worried about wear and tear). Then some patches with cleaner. Then oil. And ALWAYS clean the gas system! Some guys say run them dry, my experience has shown me to oil it. I clean and oil EVERYTHING every trip out. Tedious, but ensure it functions flawlessly next time out.
 
I use CLP break free in my AR7, it works well. The only problem I have with it is that it's runny, unlike gunslick oil. When I put the barrel in the stock, it runs out all over the place. I have also tried CLP in my 858, and I find that it runs down into the trigger assembly and down around the pistol grip from trigger guard.

Keep in mind i use boiling water in my 858 to clean it, so the CLP goes in afterward.
 
I use boiling hot water because it disappears nice and quick. That's just the beginning. I use any given cleaner and brush the hell out of it (with a chrome lined barrel I'm not too worried about wear and tear). Then some patches with cleaner. Then oil. And ALWAYS clean the gas system! Some guys say run them dry, my experience has shown me to oil it. I clean and oil EVERYTHING every trip out. Tedious, but ensure it functions flawlessly next time out.

I clean mine every time too programming from the army I guess. Then I get my wife to inspect it tell me it's filthy and to do it again. I dont touch it and then she says much better good job. just like the old days. :D
 
Do you guys use hot water on your trigger groups as well? And on the bolt carrier spring? Or even the bolt carrier for that matter? Do you dissemble the bolt/bolt pin and clean the bolt pin channel? Or do you just pour hot water over it as is and let it dry without dissembley?
 
Do you guys use hot water on your trigger groups as well? And on the bolt carrier spring? Or even the bolt carrier for that matter? Do you dissemble the bolt/bolt pin and clean the bolt pin channel? Or do you just pour hot water over it as is and let it dry without dissembley?
I grab a 5 gallon bucket. I take the gas spring, tube & piston, op-rod & spring, bolt and bolt carrier on the bucket. I spray the inside of the barrel at the chamber with sweet 7.62 and give it a few sec's to make its way to the bottom of the barrel. I then take a M14 brass chamber brush and while the sweets is in the barrel I quickley dip it in some laquer thinner and scrub the chamber. By this time the kettle is whistling and I pour the hot watter down the chamber with the barrel point down into the bucket. Once the kettle is empty I swish the water all around the parts that are in the bottom of the bucket. Then come time for the brake cleaner scrub down to remove all the carbon deposits. Then it's all dry by the time I am finished swabing the barrel. Now I get some of that cheap Marstar CLP & slap it on to a rag witch I wipe on all the metal parts. Re-assemble and Bob's your uncle.
;)
Damm just writing this make me want to buy another SKS.
 
Do you guys use hot water on your trigger groups as well? And on the bolt carrier spring? Or even the bolt carrier for that matter? Do you dissemble the bolt/bolt pin and clean the bolt pin channel? Or do you just pour hot water over it as is and let it dry without dissembley?

For the water, I just take the stock off and flush out the barrel. For the pin I just spray the snot out of it, then spray in some lube. That baby runs free and sloppy every time.
 
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