Taper crimp vs roll crimp

jdman

jdman

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Hey guys,

searched but found nothing of the two differences.

I am loading for the 500SW, and have roll crimp dies. I have never noticed till now, and dont have any experience with them. I have read on another forum, to only roll crimp into a cannelure groove. However the berrys plated 350 gr's ihave to get a OAL of 2.040, it is just ahead, maybe a millimeter or 2 above the cannelure. And is it normal to feel resistance to get the case mouth the same as the lower part of the seated bullet? Like with taper crimp it says to have it the same or less by i think a few thou? Seems wrong to me.

What to do?
 
As long as the cylinder rotates, you can play with the OAL a little.

I would role crimp into the cannelure for sure.

The idea with a large/powerful round like yours is that the recoil can cause the bullets in the rounds in the cylinder to jump forward out of the cases enough to cause the cylinder to lockup.

A somewhat heavy roll crimp into the cannelure pretty much guarantees this won't happen.

Taper crimping is more for semiautos, and ensuring feeding reliability. Not really meant for heavy crimping, especially with cast and plated bullets, as heavy taper crimps can result in undersized bullets. The taper crimp squeezes the bullet and casing, and if too much is applied, the bullet will esentially be resized, while the brass case will open back up slightly.
 
Not much help here as I load lead exclusively for my 500 S&W.

I noticed that when I roll crimped my rounds some cases (Winchester were worst offenders) would not go in the cylinder.

I switched to Redding Profile Crimp dies and the problem went away.
 
Paulinski said:
Not much help here as I load lead exclusively for my 500 S&W.

I noticed that when I roll crimped my rounds some cases (Winchester were worst offenders) would not go in the cylinder.

I switched to Redding Profile Crimp dies and the problem went away.
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Seems like roll crimping is an art form. Too much and you get what you just described, too little can sometimes let heavy recoiling rounds move their bullets forward. Experimentation is the key. Good luck, that 500 sounds pretty awesome.
 
I have a feeling that brass was the culprit. Even when belling the case Winchester 500 S&W brass too more effort as opposed to Starline and Hornady.

Redding die solved the problem - I still prefer Starline brass though.

One thing to watch with plated bullets is if you have to much of a crimp you can cut the the plating and some if it might come out through the cylinder gap.

Unless you are loading max load seating the bullet slightly deeper should not be an issue.

I used to load 500gr Hornady FMJ well in front of the crimp groove to maximize case capacity.
 
Anytime that I've used the Berry's bullets for the 500, I've just roll crimped them into the groove. The extra OAL doesn't seem to hurt anything.
 
mlehtovaara said:
Then increased pressure isn't even an issue. Only thing you have to worry about is the Max OAL for the cylinder to rotate without binding.
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aubie97 said:
Anytime that I've used the Berry's bullets for the 500, I've just roll crimped them into the groove. The extra OAL doesn't seem to hurt anything.
Click to expand...

Golden!

Thanks for the help guys! There is major room with the 350's, as i am able to load 700's too. :cool:
Off to do some up now. :D
 
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