Cutting Slab Lead?
- Thread starter Flying Beaver
- Start date
Rory McCanuck
CGN Regular
- Location
- Middle of Manitoba
I'm in the axe and a sledge hammer camp.
Not 2lb hammer either. A real one.
Make sure you have someone holding the axe though,
a deflected hit could be more excitement than you want!
Would it be possible to chop pieces off of the edge
with the axe, or even a hatchet?
A hand powered wood saw might also work well.
Your not likely to hurt the teeth with soft lead.
Not 2lb hammer either. A real one.
Make sure you have someone holding the axe though,
a deflected hit could be more excitement than you want!
Would it be possible to chop pieces off of the edge
with the axe, or even a hatchet?
A hand powered wood saw might also work well.
Your not likely to hurt the teeth with soft lead.
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
I was in a similar situation couple years ago. My bud took it to his bud who had a machine shop and they used a power hacksaw. Thing is, my lead slab wasn't as big as the OPs, it was only 7 inches x 14 x 1 inch.
I cut some thick lead slabs(2"") using a thin double-blade fallers axe. Placed the slab on a maple cutting block 20" high. On a 2 1/2" sheet. you should be through on the third hit. The first 2 hits will displace the lead into a V shape. Was surprised that the edge was still keen when finished.
Henry Nierychlo
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Surrey, B.C.
Tiger Torch & catch the drips. It will go fast. I've done it before.
Regards, Henry
Regards, Henry
x2 on the bandsaw...I've cut hardened tool steel on a bandsaw, so lead should be no problem. Also, the handle will get cut up as well, and can be removed from the melt when you skim off the dirt and slag. If you can manage to cut around the steel handle, you could probably use a wood bandsaw on LOW. It might take a couple hours, but it will cut op those blocks with the least amount of mess, strained backs, lead poisoning, burns, etc....
I just went through this with an 80 lb chunk with a 1/2" steel rod running full length of it with an eyelet on one end. I think it was probably used as some kind of a counterweight. The band saw blade made it in about 3/4" and jammed...then broke...then I broke off a chunk of blade in the block trying to remove it....yea...it's not going to let go.
The oxy-acetylene torch made fairly short work of it. I hung the edge of mine off a metal bench and put an empty metal can under it. When I was done cutting it into pieces that would fit into my melting pot, I dumped the contents of the metal can in too...no real loss of material other than the steel rod.
If you don't have access to a oxy-acetylene torch, you're just going to have to try and melt it away, bit by bit with a propane torch and put the drippings in your casting pot. With blocks that size, they're going to absorb a lot of heat before anything starts to melt. Good luck bud.
The oxy-acetylene torch made fairly short work of it. I hung the edge of mine off a metal bench and put an empty metal can under it. When I was done cutting it into pieces that would fit into my melting pot, I dumped the contents of the metal can in too...no real loss of material other than the steel rod.
If you don't have access to a oxy-acetylene torch, you're just going to have to try and melt it away, bit by bit with a propane torch and put the drippings in your casting pot. With blocks that size, they're going to absorb a lot of heat before anything starts to melt. Good luck bud.
- Location
- South Central, Manitoba
any metal shops in your area?? perhaps for a nominal fee they would use a shear to cut it for you.
barring that, i would make a blade out of 1/4 inch steel and use a 20 ton or larger press to shear it myself.
easy peasy that way. might be you have a press, or a pally does. now just make a blade.
barring that, i would make a blade out of 1/4 inch steel and use a 20 ton or larger press to shear it myself.
easy peasy that way. might be you have a press, or a pally does. now just make a blade.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
Funny you should mention the press. I was jacking up the front end of my old 4-door crew cab, and it occurred to me that at 7500 pounds, empty, I might possibly position the lead slab on some 2x4, then a cutting blade welded to a square plate, then a biggish bottle jack, then the truck bumper (3/4" welded steel plate box girder). The only difficulty would be getting and keeping everything lined up - so it's probably not a practical solution.
A large press with a knife tool might do the job, though.
In the interim, I also came across the following discussion on the same subject on a U.S. board, THR.
ht tp://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-469958.html
As with my question, a variety of answers were suggested (except for the hot-wire cutter - I think you'd better patent that invention!)
A number of posters reported using a Skilsaw with a carbide tooth coarse wood blade, putting the slab on blocks and a tarp underneath to collect the shavings, which can be added in when melting. This method seems to have worked successfully for several people, as has the "axe" method.
I hadn't considered using a really large container and attempting to melt the slab - even partially - with the slab in direct contact with the container over the propane burner. I suppose the lack of a sturdy pot that size caused me to overlook it. A really large fry pan or something similar might work for this application, even if it only allowed removing part of the slab.
Henry Nierychlo mentioned that he has melted slabs directly into an iron pot using a tiger torch - perhaps I'll give that a shot before I break out the axe or the saw blades. Even if I could melt the corners off, it would help a lot in reshaping the slab to fit into some kind of vessel for melting.
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If you have access to a steel plate, tie the lead bar to it with wire through the steel handles. Then tilt it on an angle with a tray on the bottom. Apply heat, say from a propane tiger torch to the underside or the steel plate. The lead will melt away and form in the pan.
It is a simple process and works well. I've done it more than a couple of times with ballast bars that weigh 100lbs each. The nice thing about it is that a few seconds after removing the heat, the lead bar stops melting and you can limit the size of the bars to your needs.
It is a simple process and works well. I've done it more than a couple of times with ballast bars that weigh 100lbs each. The nice thing about it is that a few seconds after removing the heat, the lead bar stops melting and you can limit the size of the bars to your needs.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
This idea has appeal because of the absence of mess, strained back, etc,.
I don't know of anyone offhand who has a big band saw, but I suspect if I ask around I'll find one. As you say, use a wood blade on low speed. In all the posts about sawing thick lead, they all agree on this point.
Even a carpenter's rip saw, which has a pretty coarse blade, might be a way to nibble through it, taking a few minutes every day. Certainly would be a good way of building upper arm strength, LOL.
Thank you everyone for the suggestions and the support. I now have a range of options to try, and those are from people who have actually used them.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
OK. Well, that one is easy enough to try out quickly, and it sounds reasonable.
I do believe I have a suitable chunk of steel plate kicking around here somewhere. Limiting the amount melted at any one time, and quickly, makes good sense too. Molten lead is something I'd prefer to handle in reasonably small quantities. It would also be nice to get this done before the snow comes.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
- Location
- Alberta Free State
Interesting that it worked this way for you. After the time spent with hammer and cold chisel, I didn't think that an axe would cut through that quickly.
I've used an axe on fairly large chunks with success, but I find harder lead like wheel weights easier then pure lead as it will eventually crack.
Depending on what part of Alberta you are in, I have access to a linotype melter from a print shop that I'm fairly sure would take the entire slab at once. I'm around Provost.
Depending on what part of Alberta you are in, I have access to a linotype melter from a print shop that I'm fairly sure would take the entire slab at once. I'm around Provost.
