Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Husqvarna 640 FN Commercial 98 action chambered in 8x57 IS. German engineering, Belgian receiver, Swedish steel barrel. Ausgezeichnet! Diese Gewehr ist sehr gut!

Und ... die Fotos:

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Now, there's some small specks of rust on the metal surface on the barrel and magazine floor plate. What's the best way to remove them? 0000 steel wool and gun oil? And how should I clean up the stock and maybe give it a good protective finish?
 
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Nice late M/648. Should clean out with the medicine you're describing (steel whool and oil - just be be careful not to scrub too much finish). The wood (beech) was originally packed with linseed oil, so there's no wrong in saturating it once again, just scrub a thin layer with your hand until you can feel some heat, then let it sit for some time, whipe out the excess and you're done.
 
Do I need to remove any of the finish before putting on more linseed oil? Also, there are some deep dings in the stock that I doubt can be steamed out. Would wood putty work?

Lastly, where I can I find out the date of manufacture?
 
Mosinmaster,

If the dings are too deep to be steamed out, I personally won't suggest you to put wood putty in those. It will give a hawful look, whatever you use to do so. There is a method for embedding wood pieces into holes, but you really nned some kind of exercise to do so properly. In your pics, I don't see any ding deep enough to cry about, but it's just my opinion. To me, it show the previous life / years of the rifle.

You can go in the Serial number sticky and check out the address of the site wich copied the HVA Museum book, but you can also post the number here, less the last two digits and I'll givce you the right timline of your rifle's birth.
 
Regarding these rifles cracking at the tang, what can I do to prevent that from happening? And here is the picture of the dings:

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Well, as it was discussed so many times, the "problem" is not a HVA problem, but is related to Mauser's staggered column design. The thin sidewalls each sides of the magazine are bending having the wood grain under extension when there is a play between the receiver's front recoil lug and the stock's carved bedding, and / or the rear of the tang and / or the action srew(s) are making contact, say, hammering, on the stock, creating those cracks.
We know wood is a better material in compression than in extension, and usually loose bolts and / or wood dryness, sometimes bad fitting of the bedding / recoil lug, bad woodgrain or weak woodgrain together with the bending will make this happening. Still from my experience, it is more commonly seen with very dry beechwood than walnut, but any wood will crack under the above conditions.
Keep the actions screws tight and put some care to your stock first.
Then, If you're really concerned, you can check the bedding contact.
But my own experience is that they usually don't break when they are well cared of.
Even my 1651 in .358 Norma Magnum is still with the original bedding and I shoot it regularly without an issue.
Get yourself a good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers to make sure you don't strip the bolt head slots, too.

Regarding the scratches, I'd personally try to steam them, using a wet cotton rag and hot iron. It will come up a bit and a maybe even more than you may thnk. When it's reaaly too deep, then, sanding or rasping becomes an option. You must master finition sanding to make it really smooth and almost invisible, though.
But I think that steaming is your option here, scratches are part of the rifle's life, too.
 
Here's my contribution to the thread. 1960 manufacture according to skydevaaben.

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She's taken down a little buck whitetail and a big bull moose since coming into my possession.
 
Kanabo,

What is the finish on the rifle? is it a thick plastic-like (kindof epoxy) finish or varnish or shiny oil finish?
From the S/N you supplied to me in your P/M, 1960 as a year of manufacture is correct. In fact it was made early 1960.
From what I can see, the receiver seems to have been reblued, they usually have the same color as the bolt shroud. But the 1640K originally had this purpleish color from the factory.

The name of this model is 4100 (i.e. 4108, to be more precise, when chambered for the .308 Win).
It should give you years of loyal service, without any doubts.
 
The finish on the rifle does seem more like an epoxy. It does get used in the field, so it's got a few dings in the stock, but the finish is not broken anywhere that I've noticed. Thanks for the information on the rifle.
 
Is there anything else stamped on the rifle? - such as "Imperial" or else?
Do the finish makes a "wither" spot where the dings are?
 
Husqvarna M146 9.3x62

The stock on my M146 was in good shape but I thought I would try something different - I stained the beechwood green before applying several coats of Tru-Oil. Not everyone's cup of tea but I quite like the look. It's a good shooter, 1-1/4" group for five shots at 100yds with Speer 270's.
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Custom Husqvarna 9.3x62

This rifle was originally a Husqvarna Commercial M98 in 8x57. The barrel was not up to the accuracy I was expecting so I had some friends turn it into what you see here. It hasn't seen the field yet, still hasn't got that first scratch.
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D-Man,
The M/146 have walnut stocks and were chambered in 9.3X57, but from what I can see, you have a late M/98 (post '48), so it would be a 648 model.
What's the S/N ?
 
Thanks, Baribal, after I sent my post I realized that I had identified it incorrectly. I do have a M146 '98 in 9.3x57, I believe it dates back to 1937 (S/N 242xx) The S/N on the green stocked rifle is 1347xx, it is indeed a post '48 commercial FN, as is the custom 9.3x62, S/N 1456xx. Thanks for your input.
 
Is there anything else stamped on the rifle? - such as "Imperial" or else?
Do the finish makes a "wither" spot where the dings are?

No markings like that. S/N followed by 'A', the manufacturer and calibre, the 'Nitro' marking. The finish stays consistent where there are dings.
 
I took out my FN98 Action and Husqvarna barrel to clean up, and saw some proof marks and numbers that perhaps you guys can help me out with.

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Is my Mauser a C or H type?
 
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"C" or "H' is easy to determine.
Pull the bolt and look inside the receiver ring. "C" has one slot cut through the internal shoulder where the extractor rides.
"H" has a second slot opposite, where the bolt lug rides along the receiver rail.
 
1407XX would be the mid- production of 1952.
FN started to broach both sides of the receivers somewhere end of '47, so, we can say that '48 was the start of the production. They presented the reshaped actions end of '48, then just after they offered actions d&t for peep sights and they introduced the Supreme actions in 1956, but HVA did not use the Supreme actions, because in 1953 they introduced their own action, the 1640.
 
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