***Trigger report on new M14 build***

You let us know when that TRG "like" trigger doubles, slam fires or goes uncontrolled fire on you. Again not trying to diss your build, she appears to be a fine example of what the right accessories can do. 4.5 lbs is the minimum safe trigger pull reduction for this design. Some marksman units would have rifles tuned to 4 lbs, and eliminate the first stage. These triggers had an armorer with all the correct tools and spare parts bins to rebuild these triggers after every match if need be.
For everyone else that cares to heed the warning, 4.5 lbs is National Match trigger weight(recommended only for usgi trigger groups), 5.5lbs is Civillian Match weight, recommended for commercial manufacture trigger groups.
These trigger jobs should only be performed by an experienced M1A/M14 gunsmith or by someone with a very good understanding of the procedure. This information can be found in the 30 cal service rifle shop manual by Jerry Kuhnhaussen. Without it, don't even try it is my advice. Let's play safe out there. A blown up rifle can not only damage you, but also the shooters beside you, and uncontrolled fire doesn't go down well at any range I've been too... Even if it is only 5 rounds. :D
 
M14Doctor said:
You let us know when that TRG "like" trigger doubles, slam fires or goes uncontrolled fire on you. Again not trying to diss your build, she appears to be a fine example of what the right accessories can do. 4.5 lbs is the minimum safe trigger pull reduction for this design. Some marksman units would have rifles tuned to 4 lbs, and eliminate the first stage. These triggers had an armorer with all the correct tools and spare parts bins to rebuild these triggers after every match if need be.
For everyone else that cares to heed the warning, 4.5 lbs is National Match trigger weight(recommended only for usgi trigger groups), 5.5lbs is Civillian Match weight, recommended for commercial manufacture trigger groups.
These trigger jobs should only be performed by an experienced M1A/M14 gunsmith or by someone with a very good understanding of the procedure. This information can be found in the 30 cal service rifle shop manual by Jerry Kuhnhaussen. Without it, don't even try it is my advice. Let's play safe out there. A blown up rifle can not only damage you, but also the shooters beside you, and uncontrolled fire doesn't go down well at any range I've been too... Even if it is only 5 rounds. :D
Click to expand...

A great build! Very nice looking. Back to the trigger, Even I don't do any work to / with anybody's trigger. Not even my own. :eek:

A beauty build and that's what matters! Thanks for sharing!

:cheers:
Barney
 
M14Doctor said:
You let us know when that TRG "like" trigger doubles, slam fires or goes uncontrolled fire on you. Again not trying to diss your build, she appears to be a fine example of what the right accessories can do. 4.5 lbs is the minimum safe trigger pull reduction for this design. Some marksman units would have rifles tuned to 4 lbs, and eliminate the first stage. These triggers had an armorer with all the correct tools and spare parts bins to rebuild these triggers after every match if need be.
For everyone else that cares to heed the warning, 4.5 lbs is National Match trigger weight(recommended only for usgi trigger groups), 5.5lbs is Civillian Match weight, recommended for commercial manufacture trigger groups.
These trigger jobs should only be performed by an experienced M1A/M14 gunsmith or by someone with a very good understanding of the procedure. This information can be found in the 30 cal service rifle shop manual by Jerry Kuhnhaussen. Without it, don't even try it is my advice. Let's play safe out there. A blown up rifle can not only damage you, but also the shooters beside you, and uncontrolled fire doesn't go down well at any range I've been too... Even if it is only 5 rounds. :D
Click to expand...



Hungry said:
A great build! Very nice looking. Back to the trigger, Even I don't do any work to / with anybody's trigger. Not even my own. :eek:

A beauty build and that's what matters! Thanks for sharing!

:cheers:
Barney
Click to expand...

I am also going to chime in here regarding M14 trigger pull weight...............I agree with the two posts quoted above..........The M14 is was not designed to be a Precision type rifle with a light trigger pull........and you can't compare the M14 trigger with a bolt action trigger............there is a reason the trigger specs are what they are...........anything under the recommended 4.5 Lbs trigger pull can be dangerous and have unexpected and dire consequences !!!!!!!!

and I agree that you have a badass looking build there.... ;)
 
Well I went to the range today and I have to be honest it did slam fire twice out of 24 rnds and after the second I was convinced and called it quits. It did not slam fire when using the bolt release or charging the action on the initial round or even when the rifle was cycling rounds it slam fired when the bolt was to the rear with the bolt release engaged and I pulled the charging handle to its full length then let it go then it would slam fire. But even that I am not happy with. So I would like to thank the Doc, Hungry,and Skullboy for giving me the heads up on what could happen, because it did. Now....anyone got a USGI trigger for sale!! Or even just the hammer part would work. I may even replace it with just a chinese trigger.
 
I'd like to chime in here and mention that when my trigger group was bone stock, I was stunned at how heavy/gritty it was...didn't notice that at the store, but at the range trying to do a tight group? Yea, noticed!

All I'm saying is that if you go from your "TRG-like" trigger, ditching it for safety reasons (and kudos for keeping safe), you probably won't like a bone stock Chinese model AT ALL.

So...maybe you'd be better off ordering new parts for the trigger mech, maybe some match parts to replace the parts you "modified", that way it's going to be a good pull, but safe. Might be cheaper to order a Match hammer and the sear parts than try getting a whole new trigger mechanism.

Maybe the M-14 gurus can inform you of the pitfalls of installing such match grade parts?
 
Glad yer okay. Sometimes those of us who post "warnings" aren't just bein "know it all armchair gunsmiths" :D I'm glad that you reported the results, and agin, very glad that no harm came to you ar the rifle you've worked very hard on.

Trigger pull can be corrected to some degree. I hate posting this as it takes a really good understanding ... But...
Take the trigger/sear and pop out the pin that holds the disconnect. On the spine (back edge) of the trigger body, material can be removed at the precise point where the leading edge of the disconnect would meet the spine during function. This contact point can be marked prior to seperating the disconnect from trigger body. The contact point on the spine is not a hardness critical location. Several thou and trial fitting and adjusting will be necessary till you hit a point where further removal no longer has an effect. 2 lbs increase should be achievable, more than that, I dunno.

All of the above is assuming the rear hammer hooks have enough material for safe engagement.

Replacing the trigger/sear set and the hammer with M1Garand parts is a great way to upgrade a chinese trigger that needs a rebuild.

I offer 5.5lbs civillian match trigger jobs for the chinese trigger groups, parts not included and I generally don't supply upgrade parts. Cost is a flat 100.00, return shipping included. Email me ;)
 
M14Doctor said:
Replacing the trigger/sear set and the hammer with M1Garand parts is a great way to upgrade a chinese trigger that needs a rebuild.
Click to expand...

okay... so with that being said, can someone without lots of experience/understanding replace parts without harm? provided you do the safety checks that is.

other than ee are there any sources?


OP nice looking build, what internals did you go with?
 
There is a YouTube clip showing the disassembly and reassembly of a norinco trigger. Watch it, if you feel confident with the steps buy the parts from Marstar and replace. It's fairly easy if a little frustrating at the final step.
 
Understood everything, filed down the trigger spine and everything is back to normal. I did not touch the rear hammer hooks for the disconnect so the disconnect is good. I took the time while I had it apart to smooth some edges. Put it back together and the trigger pull is just over 6lbs:( but its a smooth safe 6lbs:)
Thanks Doc, Jason
M14Doctor said:
Glad yer okay. Sometimes those of us who post "warnings" aren't just bein "know it all armchair gunsmiths" :D I'm glad that you reported the results, and agin, very glad that no harm came to you ar the rifle you've worked very hard on.

Trigger pull can be corrected to some degree. I hate posting this as it takes a really good understanding ... But...
Take the trigger/sear and pop out the pin that holds the disconnect. On the spine (back edge) of the trigger body, material can be removed at the precise point where the leading edge of the disconnect would meet the spine during function. This contact point can be marked prior to seperating the disconnect from trigger body. The contact point on the spine is not a hardness critical location. Several thou and trial fitting and adjusting will be necessary till you hit a point where further removal no longer has an effect. 2 lbs increase should be achievable, more than that, I dunno.

All of the above is assuming the rear hammer hooks have enough material for safe engagement.

Replacing the trigger/sear set and the hammer with M1Garand parts is a great way to upgrade a chinese trigger that needs a rebuild.

I offer 5.5lbs civillian match trigger jobs for the chinese trigger groups, parts not included and I generally don't supply upgrade parts. Cost is a flat 100.00, return shipping included. Email me ;)
Click to expand...
 
Great thread. I like learning what I can from other mistakes and koodoo's to you jassoplau for letting all of us know what happened in the end. That is very respectable.

Nice build by the way. I just bought my first m305 and I'm thinking of going the way of your build. Did you upgrade your bolt? If so, where did you get it from. I don't plan on firing too many 7.62 rounds through mine, more likely commercial .308. I want to use it for hunting as well as at the range.

Plus, do you have any links you could share with me of your parts suppliers?
 
FWIW, most people benefit more from a smooth pull than a light one. A quick and dirty method is to smear some 800grit valve grinding compound on the trigger hooks, then manually cycle the trigger group a couple dozen times. Clean off all the compound and grease the trigger as per normal. This will usually make the stock trigger dramatically smoother without messing with the geometry.
 
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