Got a kettle? if so, save yourself some time and just use that. When I did my SKS, I tried the varsol route also and found it didn't do squat. The boiling hot water washed it all off quickly. I then used the air compressor to get blow out any water left inside spots I couldn't get at with a rag. Light coat of oil on everything isn't going to hurt it...
Sks cosmoline removal
- Thread starter amenra11
- Start date
Got a kettle? if so, save yourself some time and just use that. When I did my SKS, I tried the varsol route also and found it didn't do squat. The boiling hot water washed it all off quickly. I then used the air compressor to get blow out any water left inside spots I couldn't get at with a rag. Light coat of oil on everything isn't going to hurt it...
Iron sights
Member
- Location
- Petawawa on
After reading this hot water seems to work, i could just fill my bathtub up on full heat and put the gun in? Im assuming i should take it apart...
Hot water from your hot water tank is a long way away from boiling and will be less effective.
Kerosene is great for cosmoline removal and is the recommended method when you buy large woodworking power tools from Delta (cast iron tablesaw tops, etc come with a thick layer on top).
I let the small metal bits soak in Kerosene for a while and then wiped them off. Then one of my spray gun cleaners (G96, etc) for a final wipe down.
For the stock I put the wood beside the gas fireplace and let it sweat the cosmoline out that way, wiping off the cosmoline every once in a while. The wife wasn't too keen on putting the stock in "her" oven.
Kerosene is great for cosmoline removal and is the recommended method when you buy large woodworking power tools from Delta (cast iron tablesaw tops, etc come with a thick layer on top).
I let the small metal bits soak in Kerosene for a while and then wiped them off. Then one of my spray gun cleaners (G96, etc) for a final wipe down.
For the stock I put the wood beside the gas fireplace and let it sweat the cosmoline out that way, wiping off the cosmoline every once in a while. The wife wasn't too keen on putting the stock in "her" oven.
Iron sights
Member
- Location
- Petawawa on
Hot water from your hot water tank is a long way away from boiling and will be less effective.
Kerosene is great for cosmoline removal and is the recommended method when you buy large woodworking power tools from Delta (cast iron tablesaw tops, etc come with a thick layer on top).
I let the small metal bits soak in Kerosene for a while and then wiped them off. Then one of my spray gun cleaners (G96, etc) for a final wipe down.
For the stock I put the wood beside the gas fireplace and let it sweat the cosmoline out that way, wiping off the cosmoline every once in a while. The wife wasn't too keen on putting the stock in "her" oven.
Alrigjt thanks man, now i dont got no kerosene but i got a jerry can full gas gasoline for the quad in the garage, would that work or should i stop and get some kerosene on the way home?
Do *not* use gasoline.
Either buy a small container of Kerosene or Varsol (paint thinner) that many folks here use. I had Kerosene already. Varsol is also handy in the future if you do any oil painting around the house.
Doesn't make any sense. Cast iron is super soft and will rust like crazy if left unprotected. Yet, Delta recommends using kerosene to clean off the cosmoline. They've been at this a very long time.
Excess paint thinner is more useful for most folks so stick with Varsol.
Hot water from your hot water tank is a long way away from boiling and will be less effective.
Kerosene is great for cosmoline removal and is the recommended method when you buy large woodworking power tools from Delta (cast iron tablesaw tops, etc come with a thick layer on top).
I let the small metal bits soak in Kerosene for a while and then wiped them off. Then one of my spray gun cleaners (G96, etc) for a final wipe down.
For the stock I put the wood beside the gas fireplace and let it sweat the cosmoline out that way, wiping off the cosmoline every once in a while. The wife wasn't too keen on putting the stock in "her" oven.
Will not work well, if at all.
I found with my particular SKS, steamer water worked like a charm. Combination of steam and water at the same time, all of it just oozed and sprayed off. Best of all enviro friendly. Some of my other cleaners give me a headache.
I got the $75 Marstar deal too. The SKS was swimming in gunk.
After wiping off the goop with paper towels,
For the metal parts, I did a 3 step process:
Step 1: put in boiling water, took most of it off.
Step 2: used mineral spirits not as toxic as other paint thinners,
(but I still got high!)
Step 3: used the normal Hoppes 9 to give it a final clean up.
I had a large tube of PVC piping and industrial garbage bag which I used to dunk the
barrel.
**** of note, I noticed that the firing pin channel was so full of cosmoline, that it wouldn't shake. ( Risk of SlamFire). Only after dissassembly, and cleaning did it move cleanly. This spooked me and I ended up buy a spring assisted firing pin for the peace of mind.
After wiping off the goop with paper towels,
For the metal parts, I did a 3 step process:
Step 1: put in boiling water, took most of it off.
Step 2: used mineral spirits not as toxic as other paint thinners,
(but I still got high!)
Step 3: used the normal Hoppes 9 to give it a final clean up.
I had a large tube of PVC piping and industrial garbage bag which I used to dunk the
barrel.
**** of note, I noticed that the firing pin channel was so full of cosmoline, that it wouldn't shake. ( Risk of SlamFire). Only after dissassembly, and cleaning did it move cleanly. This spooked me and I ended up buy a spring assisted firing pin for the peace of mind.
hometownhero
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toon Town, Sk
Im thinking about that as well because after I shoot mine and clean it the pin wont rattle so I have to take the bolt apart every time I clean after a shoot
SKS & Slam fires
Thanks for letting me know.. I felt bad for spending $45 for a measily spring I could of put on part of my existing firing pin. Especially in light that I just cleaned out the channel so I thought the firing pin would now be free...but after your comment, I think it was money well spent.
When researching the SKS, I read a lot of slam fire stories.
Thanks for letting me know.. I felt bad for spending $45 for a measily spring I could of put on part of my existing firing pin. Especially in light that I just cleaned out the channel so I thought the firing pin would now be free...but after your comment, I think it was money well spent.
When researching the SKS, I read a lot of slam fire stories.
- Location
- WMU - 41 & 48
Best way to do it! Just put both my SKS stocks in the oven, took about 3 hours at 190, and there was still some sweating out. I think when I have more time il put it in the oven again until it stops sweating.
As for all the other cleaning I just used CLP to take all the cosmo off and it worked just fine, its all gone. Rem oil for storage.
Hey guys, just bought my first sks and did the big clean last night pretty late. I soaked all the metal parts in mineral spirits for an hour or so, every once in a while scrubbing them. Then I boiled them in boiling water a couple times. I read some other guys had done this with good results so I tried it. But after a bit in the boiling waiter the bolt and carrier started getting little black spots on them. Is this bad? I took them out and used 1000 steel wool to buff out the black dots an oiled all the metal up, but couldn't get the steel wool into the tiny firing pin Chanel. Is this bad?
I baked the stock (laminate) in the oven and it worked great and looks great too. Then oiled it up. But in a self-facepalm move I didn't want to put the top piece of wood that's attached to the gas chamber in the mineral spirits, so I boiled it. (I have no idea why I didn't just put it in the oven, it was about 3am at this point). It took the cosmolyne out quick, but left the wood with this weird raw color. So I put oil on it and it looks better, but definatelt doesnt have the same finished feel and color of the stock. If there something I can do, or is it hooped?
Thanks for the help, can't wait to shoot it!
I baked the stock (laminate) in the oven and it worked great and looks great too. Then oiled it up. But in a self-facepalm move I didn't want to put the top piece of wood that's attached to the gas chamber in the mineral spirits, so I boiled it. (I have no idea why I didn't just put it in the oven, it was about 3am at this point). It took the cosmolyne out quick, but left the wood with this weird raw color. So I put oil on it and it looks better, but definatelt doesnt have the same finished feel and color of the stock. If there something I can do, or is it hooped?
Thanks for the help, can't wait to shoot it!
i believe one guy on here who used steam and accidentally "fogged" up the finish on the gas tube furniture. i think he said he used some alcohol on it to get the water out of the shellac. dont quote me on that but its here on the forum somewhere in red rifles.
trubluscrew
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
That was me.
I only steamed it, not boiled. But what I did, was I rubbed some rubbing alcohol on the affected part for a few seconds and let it sit in my "heated" safe overnight. Here is the link of before and after (and yes, I suck at taking pictures)-- canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=686521
Make sure to check out post #24, and "The Kurgan's" link. He redid his stock with tung oil.
trubluscrew
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
If your going to go through the effort, look at this thread; I'm seriously thinking of stripping and tung oiling.
w ww.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6581666#post6581666
Iron sights
Member
- Location
- Petawawa on
Just did the boiling water method. Worked great. I will be doing my dads the same on the weekend. But not the stock yet, after it come out of the oven what should i put on it so it dont crack?
