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fuel80guy

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I have 2 rifles id like to reload for.
Both savage,one is a 223 axis and the other a 22-250 weather warrior.
Im going to use hornady 55 grain v max bullets for both rifles.
I need input on a reloading manual and also powders.
I plan on buying a lee single stage reloader.
Thanks in advance as any input is greatly appreciated.
 
Don't get just one reloading manual. Get 2 or 3 of them to compare values. Use the lowest powder charges for both Max & Min from all the manuals until you gain some experience and learn the signs of over-pressure.

Also, get yourself a copy of "The ABC's of Reloading", it will probably answer ever question you could think of for reloading as far as working up loads, technical information, etc.. It is also very good at explaing the "Why" of the things done during reloading, which I find far preferable to just being told "Do this, because it's the way it has to be done."

As for powders, I've been using 23 gr of IMR3031 or 19 gr of IMR4198 for my 223 with 55 grain spitzers ... I'm still working to find the "perfect" load for my Savage, butthose two are the leading choices at the moment.

My uncle (who taught me to reload) always ran either IMR 4320 or IMR 4064, depending on which bullet he was using (he was using FMJ for muskrat, and HP for groundhogs). Don't have his load book handy to tell you how much or each powder or with which weight bullets he was using. I know one of those two powders were actually a compressed load, which is probably something you'd want to stay away from when you are still learning.
 
IMagius said:
Don't get just one reloading manual. Get 2 or 3 of them to compare values. Use the lowest powder charges for both Max & Min from all the manuals until you gain some experience and learn the signs of over-pressure.

Also, get yourself a copy of "The ABC's of Reloading", it will probably answer ever question you could think of for reloading as far as working up loads, technical information, etc.. It is also very good at explaing the "Why" of the things done during reloading, which I find far preferable to just being told "Do this, because it's the way it has to be done."

As for powders, I've been using 23 gr of IMR3031 or 19 gr of IMR4198 for my 223 with 55 grain spitzers ... I'm still working to find the "perfect" load for my Savage, butthose two are the leading choices at the moment.

My uncle (who taught me to reload) always ran either IMR 4320 or IMR 4064, depending on which bullet he was using (he was using FMJ for muskrat, and HP for groundhogs). Don't have his load book handy to tell you how much or each powder or with which weight bullets he was using. I know one of those two powders were actually a compressed load, which is probably something you'd want to stay away from when you are still learning.
Click to expand...

I will second the ABC's of Reloading, but I am not so sure I would buy a bunch of other manuals anymore. There is lots of load data on the powder company websites now and it is very feasible to get a range of powders and charge weights to start from without ever looking in an actual paper manual.

I have had good results in my 22-250 with both IMR-4064 and IMR-4895 under 50gr V-max bullets.


Mark
 
The loading manuals have very good educational sections that are very interesting and useful. The books have a lot more in them than just receipes.

The 22-250 will shine with a slower powder, so if you want to use the same powder in both, RL15 is about right. If you have a powder thrower, Win 748 will meter perefectly and is a good compromise powder.

If you want to use the same bullet in both, try the Sierra 60gr HP. Both calibers will generate lots of velocity. A heavier bullet will retain some of the velocity downrange, where it will do you some good.

The Savage has a faster twist barrel. If you want to shoot tiny groups and hit things reliably beyond 100 yards, try the 68 or 69 match hollow points.
 
Ditto on the ABCs of Reloading. Best investment you can make. Read it thoroughly (skip those chapters that don't apply, such as casting your own bullets and loading shotshells). When you are finished, you will have a much better appreciation of what you are doing, what you need and what questions to ask.

WRT manuals - I agree that the hard copies are best, but then I'm old-fashioned that way. They're all good, IMHO, but some people's tastes run in different directions. Buy one now and use that data. In a year or two, buy one from another company.

Welcome to the dark side.
 
I am going to buy theabc of reloading.
I want to stick with the vmax bullets as i like the fragmentation of these bullets as im located in southern ontario and safety is my concern.
Im leaning towards lees 50th anniversary loading kit but not sure if the kit has all i will need other than 2 sets of pacemaker dies.
 
What you need to reload:
Press -with Dies & shell holder
Powder measure (for dispensing powder) & Scale (I prefer the balance beam "old school" type of scales over digital)
Case trimmer (for trimming cases to length)
Primer pocket cleaner/reamer
Case Lube pad
Micrometer (for measuring case length, diameters, etc..)

Not included in any "Kit" I have seen:
Brass cleaner - vibrating, rotary or ultrasonic ... read reviews and pick one - I use a cheap vibratory one with walnut/corn media, and while it takes longer than the others, it was cheap and it works fine.

Extras that are very helpful:
Primer tray for keeping them clean and right side up.
Case trays for standing the shells in during the various stages of reloading.
 
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