Neck Turning Question

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I've gotten some mixed advice from some very experienced and succesful F-Class shooters on the need to neck turn (or not), so I thought I'd pose the question to the larger group:

Is neck turning necessary or recommended for a .308 with standard chamber? If it matters I only use Lapua brass, and a Redding S bushing neck sizer.

My thinking is that the bushing would essentially uniform the neck, or at least the outside diameter so it may be a lot of good time wasted, but I'd certainly welcome any thoughts.

I've got an eye on a Forster neck turning tool if needed, but if the difference is negligible I probably won't bother.

Thanks as always!

Scott
 
While I neck turn several calibers, I use Lapua brass in my 308 match gun and have never found a need or necessity to turn the necks, nor do I ream the flash holes.

Grinch
 
If you are using bushing sizing dies, outside neck turn and keep touching them up through the life of the brass.

When I trim, I outside neck turn as well. Just a touch but the brass had to come from somewhere and it rarely flows evenly.

A bushing die only works because the necks being sized are consistent and even. If they are not, the defects will be pushed INTO the neck opening and can cause bullet seating/runout issues.

Also varying neck thickness will affect neck tension from case to case. Not ideal for best accuracy.

Size some cases, seat some bullets, measure runout. If within your desired specs, fly at it. If not, outside neck turning is helpful.

Don't forget annealing.....

Jerry
 
if it is a standard chamber then you will probably have more then .005 clearance you don't need to neck turn, I would instead, look at getting a lee collet die to move any imperfections of the neck from the inside to the outside. The bushing dies push imperfections from the outside to the inside this tends to screw up neck tension and will cause larger groups higher ES/SD.

If you want to neck turn get the K&M, sinclair, and more recently the 21century neck turning tool they are a better product and do a better job.
 
I run a no turn neck in my 6BR but I still turned the necks so that I have as close to 100% concentricity as I can in the necks.

It wouldn't hurt to turn them to about 75-80% just to even things out as (has been stated) the bushing die will uniform the outside of the neck while the inside (the part that grips the bullet) will be uneven.

If you don't want to neck turn, another option is to size it a bit small and then run the neck through an expander mandrel which will push the inside of the case neck concentric leaving the uneven parts on the outside.
 
If you have a tight neck chamber, then obviously you have to. For those of us that don't shoot with tight neck chambers, it is more of an option. Basically for most precision rifles you want .002-.003 clearance with a loaded round and if thats what you get with unturned brass than really all you want to do is turn for consistency.
 
FWIW Scott,
if you are achieving the level of performance you require from the unturned quality Lapua brass and your current loading procedures ,then no additional work is needed.

However if you are looking to improve upon your current results,it's been proven time and again that neck turned (uniformed for thickness and easier to control neck tensions) will improve results of reloading.
There's a lot that can be discussed on this matter,but for the simplest shortest answer
determine if you are consistently getting the results demanded.If not ,turning is another step that can help.(holding 1/2 MOA to 1000yards is challenging for the shooter AND their ammunition at the best of times)
Some reloaders will sort (cull) brass by measuring neck thicknesses. Others will use
a bushing sizing die WITH a button (I suggest carbide button kit for Redding dies)
Others use an undersized expanding mandrel after sizing down necks with a bushing.
Lots of options.
Myself I spend my winter prepping brass for next season and "turn" necks of "match" brass. For non match brass I use a bushing die with carbide mandrel to uniform at best.
(as the brass is being withdrawn from the bushing and pulled over the "button" you can feel if the tension is the same or different and sort brass into same tensions.Likewise as you seat the bullet you can feel differing neck tensions and sort loaded rounds)

Good luck with your progress and welcome to the "F" ing madness.:)
Gord
 
If you have quality brass there does not seem to be much of an accuracy advantage to a tight neck and having to turn brass... less you you screw it up. Neck tension is more important I think.

A chamber made for use with no neck turn Lapua brass is my choice today. Not always possible with wildcats and some cartridges... but if I can make it without turning brass I much prefer it.
 
CyaN1de said:
I run a no turn neck in my 6BR but I still turned the necks so that I have as close to 100% concentricity as I can in the necks.

It wouldn't hurt to turn them to about 75-80% just to even things out as (has been stated) the bushing die will uniform the outside of the neck while the inside (the part that grips the bullet) will be uneven.
Click to expand...

I think CyaN1de has the right thinking and I have followed this same thinking Religiously. I turn my 6 BR Lapua brass as well and at least check the flash holes for any possible problems. I anything it gives you piece of mind that you did everything you could in the name of accuracy.
Cheers:D
 
guntech said:
If you have quality brass there does not seem to be much of an accuracy advantage to a tight neck and having to turn brass... less you you screw it up. Neck tension is more important I think.

A chamber made for use with no neck turn Lapua brass is my choice today. Not always possible with wildcats and some cartridges... but if I can make it without turning brass I much prefer it.
Click to expand...

Even quality brass such as Lapua will have inconstancies in the neck. Some of my BR brass had 14thou on one side and as little as 12thou on the other side.

The extra clearance has not seemed to affect the accuracy of my gun in anyway, shape or form.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

It sounds to me that the general consensus is that while's it's not strictly required, if I'm looking for the best accuracy it's one more variable that can be covered off with a little more time and as I'm finding out is the case with all things F-Class, a little more money.

If it's one of those things like Jerry and Gord have suggested that need to really be done once then touched up periodically then I don't think I'd mind doing it over the winter, or on the patio one night with a cold beverage or two. It can take the place of all the time I'm freeing up by from moving to a WFT trimmer from my Lee handheld!

Cheers,

Scott
 
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