Bedded my Savage 12

Action screws do not touch the pillars. I make up my own pillars for bedding and always allow plenty of clearance. My pillars always touch the action, i make them longer then mill them down so the bottom metal fits perfect.
In my opinion (and its not worth much :)) pillars in todays modern stocks (ie. mcmillan, manners, etc) with heavy fills do not benefit at all from pillars when bedding as the epoxy and heavy fill prevent any crush unlike wood stocks. Given my slight OCD when it comes to my rifles I go ahead and use pillars anyways tho.
Mystic has given some good info on bedding in this post.
 
That is how I have always doneit. I recently pillared and bedded my T3. Same thing, made em long and milled em flush. Can get nice tight action screws wihout fear of crushing the stock.
 
I was told that if you take the front action screw out and the barrel moves f upward form tip of the forearm it needs bedding?
Another question on pillars,
Do the pillars have to touch the action? or can bedding be between the pillar and action?

If you take the action bolts out and move the action within the stock, you need to bed. yes, there are some very interesting interlock stocks that 'clamp' together when the bolts are drawn but that is not what is offered in conventional rifles.

I believe the TC ICONs use a type of matching plate. V blocks and Accustocks dont count.

Yes, the whole point of a pillar is to keep the stock from crushing when the bolts are tightened so making contact with the bottom of the receiver is desired. However, a skim of bedding will resolve any gap between the factory pillar and the action. Epoxy steel is very solid when cured.

If you had to do one style of bedding, I would bed the action and forego the pillars. both would be ideal but if the action and stock are properly mated, the amount of force needed on the action bolts is low thus there is little chance of crushing the stock.

Those bolts just need to be tight enough to keep the action/stock from separating and keep from loosening. hand snug is plenty. All this torqued action bolts tell me that rifle has poor bedding.

As for clearance around the bolt and pillars. Again, two schools of thought and it goes back to how well you have bedded the action.

If you have clearance AND you have sloppy bedding, the action will use the bolts as a load bearing surface and will move until something jams up enough to stop the movement. When the action bolts get slammed and bounced around inside that pillar, it will bend and stretch.

Just look into the pillar of a non bedded rifle and I bet you will see the black imprint of threads. You might even see threads worn into some part of the pillar. Bad....

If the action is properly bedded, it shouldn't move thus there is no load on the bolts. Some say clearance improves tuning. I can't see an affect but whatever makes you happy.

Another way to look at bedding is to use threaded pillars so that the bolt is integral with the stock. NOW, the bolts CAN be load bearing. Try looking up the shear force on a 1/4" good steel bolt.

It is very different from conventional stock design but offers an interesting way to secure your action and stock in place.

There have been many rifles that used a threaded recoil lug. These lugs were part of the receiver so all a solid interface.

bottom line is that the action and stock MUST NOT MOVE under recoil loads.

How you get there is entirely up to you and your engineering ideas.
Jerry
 
Not trying to sidetrack the thread, but what would your thinking be on this T3 action?

bedding.jpg


Everything that I have read where people had success with bedding the T3s, they removed some material from highlighted area to ensure it does not become a recoil surface.

What if a person used threaded pillars and did not relieve this area? Would you then technically have a recoil surface on the lugs, the back of the 1/2 moons on the bottom of the action and the recoil lugs itself? I guarantee the action would not move but with that many surfaces, would repeatability suffer?
 
One thing I have found is that very few, well almost non of the HS stocks I have checked have not been level from tang to recoil lug. If the action is all one size in diameter, their will be stress on it. How do you level this out?
 
One thing I have found is that very few, well almost non of the HS stocks I have checked have not been level from tang to recoil lug. If the action is all one size in diameter, their will be stress on it. How do you level this out?

Inletting in most any commercial product that I have seen benefits from proper bedding.

And proper bedding makes sure the action is level and properly supported in the stock.

Jerry
 
Not trying to sidetrack the thread, but what would your thinking be on this T3 action?

bedding.jpg


Everything that I have read where people had success with bedding the T3s, they removed some material from highlighted area to ensure it does not become a recoil surface.

What if a person used threaded pillars and did not relieve this area? Would you then technically have a recoil surface on the lugs, the back of the 1/2 moons on the bottom of the action and the recoil lugs itself? I guarantee the action would not move but with that many surfaces, would repeatability suffer?

I love reading these bedding posts like you found.

If the bedding is secure, who cares is there is one or twelve contact spots?

Which part of not moving did they not understand?

Relieving that little area has nothing to do with proper bedding nor can it have any affect on barrel harmonics.

The bedding in the pic looks good. How it fits I cannot say but the appearance is nice.

Personally, I would have extended the bedding under the first inch of barrel. Looks like the bedding was removed.

As they say, "Support is beautiful"

Jerry
 
I was taught to have the front face, the bottom and sides of the recoil lug free with ONLY the back side stopping the recoil from moving anything backward. That also applies to each front and rear screws which should touch nothing except the action and the bottom of the receiver. As well the magazine must not touch at the rear.

..also it is a given that the barrel is free floated.
 
About the only thing that type of clearance will give you is ease of removal. That is NOT what proper bedding is all about. See my videos on my dealer forum.

I know there are plenty of opinions on the subject but for me, any movement is bad. I want that recoil lug to be fully supported and locked in place.

All the recoil forces go through this place and if it can move, it will.

And if it can move, what have you achieved?
Jerry
 
The fellow who showed me that method was a Bisley competitor and an avid M70 featherweight user. He has long since passed away, but I have one of his rifles in .308 along with several of my own that while not heavy bench or long range rifles, can shoot .5moa 5 shot groups all day long if the wind is cooperative.

I do however know what you are speaking of as I also have done a lot of bedding bench guns the way you do yours, and agree for those purposes it is a good way to go. My own were sleeved single shot actions and were too tight to easily budge anywhere. I guess I was referring to sporters more and will think more on this...hence the value of learning online here from others.
 
Very interesting and informative post. Thanks to all who have added to it.

A question: Is bedding normally applied to both the stock and receiver before assembly? That seems to be what is shown in these pics. I have played around with bedding a couple of rifles and have only applied the compound to the stock, then lowered the clean receiver into it. Which method is preferred? Also, what is favoured as a release agent? I seem to have success with silicone spray...any better ideas out there? Thanks.
 
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