#10 percussion caps for muff pistol
- Thread starter danyboy
- Start date
Very unlikely it was rifled.
These turn-off pistols used a ball greater than bore diameter.
There are commercial 5.5-.9 metric pistol nipples available. In Imperial measure it is .216-28. Dixie lists them.
I am in the process of replacing the nipple in a .58 caliber boxlock sidehammer belt pistol. It also appears to be this size.
I'm probably going to order one, but in the meantime, I'll have a go at making one on the lathe.
These turn-off pistols used a ball greater than bore diameter.
There are commercial 5.5-.9 metric pistol nipples available. In Imperial measure it is .216-28. Dixie lists them.
I am in the process of replacing the nipple in a .58 caliber boxlock sidehammer belt pistol. It also appears to be this size.
I'm probably going to order one, but in the meantime, I'll have a go at making one on the lathe.
Light reaming should be OK. You do not want to remove much metal.
I would try a .345-.350 ball. As long as the ball fits in the recess in the breech, and doesn't enter the bore, you should be good to go. I would also be inclined to put a bit of lube on top of the ball.
I would try a .345-.350 ball. As long as the ball fits in the recess in the breech, and doesn't enter the bore, you should be good to go. I would also be inclined to put a bit of lube on top of the ball.
You indicated the bore was .343-.352. I don't know the exact size, that's why I suggested a diameter larger than the .343, a bit smaller than the .352. A .360 might be OK in .352, might be too much of a good thing in .343. As long as the ball is caught between the breech and the barrel, and doesn't freely enter the barrel, it should be OK.
If you are able to slightly ream the bore, you will be able to have good control over oversized ball diameter.
Turns out the nipple I needed had a finer thread than the -28. Made one on the lathe this afternoon, fits well, looks good. Bit of a sledgehammer driving a tack, using a 1600 pound lathe to make a percussion nipple.
If you are able to slightly ream the bore, you will be able to have good control over oversized ball diameter.
Turns out the nipple I needed had a finer thread than the -28. Made one on the lathe this afternoon, fits well, looks good. Bit of a sledgehammer driving a tack, using a 1600 pound lathe to make a percussion nipple.
Muff pistol
OK, I get it. You're lucky to have all those tools at home. I think I'll make a new barrel caus this one is oval, probably due to someone who tried to screw it off in a vise.
Figured out the thread is M11X1.25 and that a piece of 3/8" black iron pipe would do the job. I'll make the inside tap first and harden it next.
OK, I get it. You're lucky to have all those tools at home. I think I'll make a new barrel caus this one is oval, probably due to someone who tried to screw it off in a vise.
Figured out the thread is M11X1.25 and that a piece of 3/8" black iron pipe would do the job. I'll make the inside tap first and harden it next.
Don't use a piece of black iron pipe. Use a piece of steel. You could even use a piece of barrel with rifling; a scrap of .38 barrel would likely work nicely. Are you referring to making a tap and hardening it, or the barrel? No need to harden the barrel.
Is this a Birmingham gun or a Belgian? Former is likely Imperial, latter, metric.
Is this a Birmingham gun or a Belgian? Former is likely Imperial, latter, metric.
muff pistol
'Don't use a piece of black iron pipe. Use a piece of steel.'
Isn't black iron pipe steel ?
'You could even use a piece of barrel with rifling; a scrap of .38 barrel would likely work nicely. '
Where would I find a scrap .38 barrel ?
' Are you referring to making a tap and hardening it, or the barrel? No need to harden the barrel.' I would have tapped the piece of pipe first and hardened it after'
'Is this a Birmingham gun or a Belgian? Former is likely Imperial, latter, metric.' Must be a Birmingham cause it's metric for sure. I used a whitworth gauge and both the nipple and barrel have metric taps. Mind you, I looked at the Birmingham proof marks on the net and these look different but threads are definitely metric.
'Don't use a piece of black iron pipe. Use a piece of steel.'
Isn't black iron pipe steel ?
'You could even use a piece of barrel with rifling; a scrap of .38 barrel would likely work nicely. '
Where would I find a scrap .38 barrel ?
' Are you referring to making a tap and hardening it, or the barrel? No need to harden the barrel.' I would have tapped the piece of pipe first and hardened it after'
'Is this a Birmingham gun or a Belgian? Former is likely Imperial, latter, metric.' Must be a Birmingham cause it's metric for sure. I used a whitworth gauge and both the nipple and barrel have metric taps. Mind you, I looked at the Birmingham proof marks on the net and these look different but threads are definitely metric.
Pretty much this.
For sources of old barrel, try a gunsmith, they'll likely be able to properly fit the chunk of barrel. Unless you've got a bottom tap of appropriate size I'd think you'll end up with internal threads entering the bore and leading/fouling up, or having the pistol's external threads binding up as the tap tapered, since it couldn't be run full length into the bore.
No, they're not.
There are three tap types, taper, plug, and bottoming. The leading portion of the taper and plug taps is ground with a bevel to facilitate starting the taps.
H Wally is pointing out that the barrel threads should be finished with a bottoming tap, so that the plug threads won't jam, and the plug will seat against the shoulder at the end of the barrel threads. The breech of the barrel should also butt up against the receiver shoulder. There should be two points of contact.
It may also be necessary for there to be a slight "chamber" at the leade into the bore to allow the ball to be seated properly.
If your original barrel was flattened slightly during a ham handed effort to unscrew it, passing the correctly sized reamer through it will correct the bore, and allow the original barrel to be used.
There are three tap types, taper, plug, and bottoming. The leading portion of the taper and plug taps is ground with a bevel to facilitate starting the taps.
H Wally is pointing out that the barrel threads should be finished with a bottoming tap, so that the plug threads won't jam, and the plug will seat against the shoulder at the end of the barrel threads. The breech of the barrel should also butt up against the receiver shoulder. There should be two points of contact.
It may also be necessary for there to be a slight "chamber" at the leade into the bore to allow the ball to be seated properly.
If your original barrel was flattened slightly during a ham handed effort to unscrew it, passing the correctly sized reamer through it will correct the bore, and allow the original barrel to be used.
If the barrel were mine, I would chuck it up in the lathe, and run a drill bit through to start the cleanup process, then follow up with a reamer, to smooth out the drill marks.
I would not grab the barrel in a vise and then attack it with a reamer in an electric drill. Too much chance of getting the reamer started crooked. With the oval bore, getting the reamer cutting smoothly is going to be a bit of a challenge.
I would get a drill bit just barely large enough to even out the bore, and then a reamer just barely large enough to clean up the drill marks.
It might be possible to run the drill bit and reamer at low rpms with a hand held variable speed electric drill. The barrel is very short.
I would be necessary to make sure that the drilling and reaming do not touch the threaded portion of the barrel.
I would not grab the barrel in a vise and then attack it with a reamer in an electric drill. Too much chance of getting the reamer started crooked. With the oval bore, getting the reamer cutting smoothly is going to be a bit of a challenge.
I would get a drill bit just barely large enough to even out the bore, and then a reamer just barely large enough to clean up the drill marks.
It might be possible to run the drill bit and reamer at low rpms with a hand held variable speed electric drill. The barrel is very short.
I would be necessary to make sure that the drilling and reaming do not touch the threaded portion of the barrel.
