New AR, can't get the pistol buffer tube off...

BooSSted

BooSSted

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There is no nut holding this thing on and I have cranked on it as hard as I can and it won't budge... Anyone have one of these and taken it off before? I'm stumped.

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It's actually called a buffer tube. You're not the only one to have this problem, RRA uses red loctite to hold them on.

This thread has hints on how to remove one:

h ttp://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_122/440843_Questions_re__RRA_pistol_buffer_tube.html

Heat, cold or acetone seems to be the suggestions offered. Let us know how it goes and how that pistol shoots.
 
Just tried to heat it with the heat gun and it still didn't budge... Looks like I need to go to 300F before Loctite melts.

Why the hell would they use Red Loctite anyways? Just to be a pain in my ass I assume. Had I known it was this tight, I would have gotten Questar to remove it before they shipped the gun..
 
New question, If I put a torch on the end of the receiver to melt the Loctite, am I going to cook the finish off?
 
They use red lock tite because the assinine laws in the US forbid anyone from putting a shoulder stock on a pistol. Try heating it from the inside, while using a strap wrench to turn the receiver extension -(I'm assuming the castle nut is gone) alternatively, drip acetone down the inside threads and let it soak in. Gun Laws, there has to be an alternative.
 
Wrap a piece of leather around the tube then a pair or channel locks or vice grip adjusted till it grabs support the lower with a vice block in the magwell and apply pressure to break it free. This is how QUESTAR does it to install collapsibles check with their armorer to confirm.
 
There is no Castle nut on there.

I'll try heating it from the inside, but I'm going to need to get a vice block for the lower so I can clamp it in without destroying it.
 
correctly installed there is NO need for loctite
Do NOT use a torch, heatgun is sufficient,just keep the heat moveing on it. you do not need to disolve the loctite,just soften it. You will likely need @ 100ft.lbs to start the movement. once it starts to move only rotate out @ 1/2 a turn, let it cool again working it as it cools(by hand) after it has cooled rotate out by hand(retain the buffer stop detent...it will pop out after 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn). If you do not feel confident in doing this get help or take it to a gunsmith. you can damage the lower if you get to much heat and torque on it.
 
heckler said:
correctly installed there is NO need for loctite
Do NOT use a torch, heatgun is sufficient,just keep the heat moveing on it. you do not need to disolve the loctite,just soften it. You will likely need @ 100ft.lbs to start the movement. once it starts to move only rotate out @ 1/2 a turn, let it cool again working it as it cools(by hand) after it has cooled rotate out by hand(retain the buffer stop detent...it will pop out after 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn). If you do not feel confident in doing this get help or take it to a gunsmith. you can damage the lower if you get to much heat and torque on it.
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I'll give that a try, thanks!

I just ordered a Vice Block for the lower, so I'll go at it again when that come in.
 
Unless your buffer tube has a "notch" in it like the photo below..no likely loctite only
Only 3 manufacturers that I know of use these and RRA is not one of them.
POF002.jpg
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POF001.jpg
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VanIsler said:
True, but considering buffer tubes and stocks are normally staked on I'd still use some Blue. I'm an engineer though and we love to over complicate things.
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The fact that your willing to admitt that makes you a good engineer in my books. Not many will LOL

A lot of military rifles are staked to prevent average GI from messing with it.
 
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