.38/357 roll crimp

[mmcintyre1220]

hey guys

I am just starting to load up some 38 special and then some 357 soon after. My question here is how much of a roll crimp should I be using ? I currently load 9mm and 45 ACP so roll crimping is new to me. I pulled one bullet I made and it took 3 medium hits with the puller. I inspected the projectile and it defiantly held the bullet but did not deform it.

As always any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[mlehtovaara]

If you google your same question you should find some pics.

Typically if they are lighter target loads, I put little crimp, but if they are full poser I would crimp more.

 

[mlehtovaara]

This is an example of a pretty heavy crimp, and is about what my full power loads would look like.

 

[stevebc]

I realize it's a different cartridge, but if it's any help, I reload for .38 S&W and I only remove the case mouth flare. (taper crimp)
Sounds like you have enough crimp to me.

 

[easyrider604]

This is an example of a pretty heavy crimp, and is about what my full power loads would look like.

+1 My 357s and 38 spls look like this. This much crimp will work great for lead bullets and jacketed bullets with cannelure.

My only caveat is this: Plated bullets may have "jacket separation" issues if this much crimp is applied. IMO, this much crimp will have the case mouth cut the plating.

For plated bullets that have no cannelure, I use only enough roll crimp such that you can see a slight tuck-in of the case mouth, compared to a perfectly straight case wall.

 

[mmcintyre1220]

Perfect thanks guys time to make some more, test, tinker and mass produce