SKS scope mount #2

LawrenceN

LawrenceN

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I generated a thread some time ago regarding the first scope mount I made for my SKS. As it turns out, that was more of a test bed for what will be (I hope) an improved model.
I used the idea of the Choate mount in that it's bolted directly to the receiver. I felt this was the most stable of all the mounting systems and worked accordingly. Instead of aluminum (mount #1), I used steel angle iron (pic #1). This time, I left enough tongue on the front end that it should act as a shell deflector to keep the brass from dinging off the bell. I hunted around for a straight tube scope and picked up an older 1.5-4 power Bushnell for $50. at a gun show. I used the Millett low rings with the adjustable traverse so I could do my coarse adjustments with the rings and fine tune with the scope adjustments. I was going to wait before putting this thread out there until I'd had it to the range, and then I thought "what the hell!" Maybe someone else is in need of a winter project. I can see one of you other handy guys taking my idea and improving on it, but at the risk of seeming egocentric, I think I designed this pretty well. I may drill some 1/2" select holes to lighten it up, but that will be down the road. Enjoy the pics! If anyone wants more detailed descriptions of the process, I'd be more than happy to expand on this thread. Any feedback you'd care to offer would be appreciated.
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i see the rail is quite low , i assume you have to remove it every time you wanna remove the top cover ?
 
You are correct in that I have to remove the mount to do a full clean up. When I use reloads or quality ammo, it's not necessary to remove the mount as I just use a pull through. When I fire corrosive ammo, I have to take it all apart. It's only 3 bolts and the tolerances are pretty tight, so in theory, when I put it back on, it should go to zero.
 
the corrosive part only affects the gas system and bore from what i understand it is in the primer nothing should ever get back into the bolt and trigger group areas. if you could make this mount so you could still load with stripper clips might be a good idea as well how the hell do you load it?

if you could make it a quick release i could see the potential drill it full of lightening holes. you could set it up really nice with a shorter scope. loading with stripper clips is a must imo.
 
dweenz said:
the corrosive part only affects the gas system and bore from what i understand it is in the primer nothing should ever get back into the bolt and trigger group areas. if you could make this mount so you could still load with stripper clips might be a good idea as well how the hell do you load it?

if you could make it a quick release i could see the potential drill it full of lightening holes. you could set it up really nice with a shorter scope. loading with stripper clips is a must imo.[/QUOTE

On the first one, I had a short scope, but since I'm doing this on the cheap, I'm trying to keep costs as low as possible and still achieve a reasonably good shooting platform. Good quality short scopes are kind of pricey. I knew I wouldn't be able to use strippers with it, but I don't have a problem hand feeding the magazine. It's only 5 rounds and it's meant as a hunting rifle not a tactical piece. My big concern was ejected brass pinging off the scope, and I think I've solved that. I'm a carpenter, not a machinist, and I don't have a shop in any case, so making a quick detach mount is beyond my skillset. When I get it to the range, I'll give a full report with target pics as well.
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cool im a carpenter too there must be a cheap way of making a quick detach. if i come up with any good ideas on it i will let ya know. im thinking a rail on the side like the choate or maybe instead of screws use a bit of longer bolt with the right thread and cut the head off so you have a stud sticking out when its threaded into the receiver. then mount your scope mount on the studs and tighten the wing nuts. lock tight blue the stud end that goes into the receiver cut a slot in the other end for a flat head screwdriver. bubbas quick detach lol you will have studs sticking out but that shouldn't bother you for cleaning. and they are removable just like your screws. plus taking out your screws and putting them back in will probably eventually wear and make for a looser fit. maybe. this way you dont mess with that connection to do a cleaning. i want to do this now .... but i dont wanna drill my russian might have a good excuse to buy a norinco.
 
LawrenceN said:
You are correct in that I have to remove the mount to do a full clean up. When I use reloads or quality ammo, it's not necessary to remove the mount as I just use a pull through. When I fire corrosive ammo, I have to take it all apart. It's only 3 bolts and the tolerances are pretty tight, so in theory, when I put it back on, it should go to zero.
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We talked once before with your first mount. Your idea started me looking for something different other than a Choates mount. I settled on the Weaver Converta mount. After installing several over the last few years I found the Weaver mount was the best of both worlds. If you also do the ejection window mod you can put any style of optic on the mount without worrying about brass striking your optic.

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bjs7293 said:
We talked once before with your first mount. Your idea started me looking for something different other than a Choates mount. I settled on the Weaver Converta mount. After installing several over the last few years I found the Weaver mount was the best of both worlds. If you also do the ejection window mod you can put any style of optic on the mount without worrying about brass striking your optic.

What a lovely piece of work!! I think you've gone me one better. Out of curiosity, what did the mount cost and where did you get it? Bear in mind, I was doing mine as an experiment in penny pinching as well as function. Also, I wanted the scope as close to the bore axis as I could get it, so the trade off was the inability to strip it right down without removing the mount. How it holds zero is the next test. Once again, kudos to you.
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Now an extension to my own thread. I finally got it to the range at CFB Borden. It really generated some interest, but the true test was "did it do what it was supposed to"? The answer is yes!! Mind you, I was shooting prone, but all the casings were in a 30" circle. Nothing dinged off the bell of the scope, and the casings weren't flung all over hell and creation. Like a dummy, I didn't loktite the screws holding the scope rail to the mount, and they started to loosen, but up to that point, I was starting to get some very nice groups. Now that everything is put right, I'll get some pics of the targets with the different loads I'm trying out.
 
I too tried something similar with my Cinese military sks and was dissapointed as to how high the scope would sit. I should mention that I used an NcStar tri-rail reciever cover. What I did was to remove the tri-rail from the mounting lugs, cut off the mounting lugs, cut the side rails off the tri-rail portion, and after cleaning the top rail up I used the stock mounting holes to attach it to the NcStar reciever cover. What I ended up with is a rail that sits as low as can be expected and, if I want to shoot with the irons, I can remove the reciever cover and replace it with the stock one.
Before.
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After.
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The thin, grey line underneath the rail in the after pic. is J-B Weld. This is one rail that won't move!! When shooting it last Sun. I removed the reciever cover and swapped it out for the stock one then reversed it again; same P.O.I. with the red-dot as well as the iron sights.
Cheers!! :)
 
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