2 hours, 5 shells made....that sucks.

darcy32171

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Here are the specs of equipment: Lee 50th anniversary kit, precision powder dispenser, beam scale.

Here are the specs of the shells: (22-250) IMR 4895 powder, CCI primers, Hornady V-Max 55gr

All ready de-primed, tumbled and re-sized the night before.
The shells consist of: 34.5gr IMR 4895

I zero`d the beam scale perfectly and then set it for 34.5gr.
I set the powder dispenser: 0.0728 x 34.5 = 2.5116cc
Put a charge on the beam scale and it was far from balanced. I ended up playing with the dispenser setting and putting all my faith in the beam scale.
This took a long while. Once I got it, I set a charge in the shell and thought "maybe recheck once more, so I emptied the shell in the beam scale pan and it was out" This was frustrating and took forever. Finally I got 5 shells made. I checked them with my digital gram scale and they all weighed 16.3gr which is what the factory winchesters all came in at.

Anyone else have issues with the micrometer on the powder dispenser??? If there is a way, I would rather have a real good digital scale (measuring grains) and then someway of pouring them into the shells (real small funnel maybe?).
There might be a small variance in powder, but 34 gr was the low end of the safe zone. Darcy
 
Anyone else have issues with the micrometer on the powder dispenser??

Do you realize that the setting on the measure will change for the same weight of various powders, due to the different shapes,sizes, and densities of the various powder kernels?
 
Do you realize that the setting on the measure will change for the same weight of various powders, due to the different shapes,sizes, and densities of the various powder kernels?

Explain more please. So how does a guy calculate the difference in kernals (ball,flake,ete)?
 
"Kernals" has nothing to do with it. "Grain" is a unit of avoir dupois measurement equaling 1/7000th of a pound. Size and shape of the powder in it's final form will determine density and how much it takes (in weight) to fill the powder chamber of the measure.

Starting out you should probaby use the scale and focus on "quality" rather than "quantity". Youreally should get a good reloading manual and actually read it cover to cover, ask questions if there's something you don't fully understand, before you dive into it full-bore.

It ain't rocket surgery but you CAN hurt yourself if you're not paying attention...
 
The powder dispenser will never give you exact and repeatable weights. Your best bet to to set it up to throw a charge a few kernels below your target weight and manually trickle that last few "bits" of powder in the pan till the scale zero's.
 
Explain more please. So how does a guy calculate the difference in kernals (ball,flake,ete)?

You don't. You basically have to set your measure by trial and error. I set my measure just slightly lower than the desired amount, place the charge on the scale, and trickle in the last bit to end up with the correct weight on the scale.
 
There are 3 basic shapes modern powder is produced in, ball, flake and cylinder, with each shape of powder having a different volume to weight ratio. You are looking for a consistent charge weight(34.5 grains of IMR4895 in your example). Your dispenser will give you a volume of powder that will have a different weight for the same setting depending on the type of powder(ball, flake or cylinder), so you set the dispenser to give you the same weight of powder consistently. Trust your scale, adjust the dispenser to give you the correct weight for the charge you want and forget about the volume.
 
First off, in my experience the Lee scale sucks, I actually threw mine across the garage one day terminating it's useless existence. I bought a RCBS scale which works great. The reloading manual is your best friend, don't try and weigh something in it's finished form regarding factory ammo, there are variances in casing, bullets and powder charge.

Usually what I do is once I've decided on the grains I'm adding to a case, I zero my scale, set it for the desired weight and then keep dropping powder , measure and follow that until my dispenser is dropping consistent charges. I don't do anything as set on the dial as different powders will meter and drop differently. Everything about powder charge has to do with weight, not a number on a meter.

Don't hesitate to ask questions, it's about your safety. But the reloading manual is important. I read mine for weeks before I even opened a can of powder.
 
The powder dispenser will never give you exact and repeatable weights. Your best bet to to set it up to throw a charge a few kernels below your target weight and manually trickle that last few "bits" of powder in the pan till the scale zero's.

Sounds good! I`d better get a small funnel to load the shells. I`m thinking I might run and buy a good digital scale. I have one, but it doesn`t weigh grain
 
"Kernals" has nothing to do with it. "Grain" is a unit of avoir dupois measurement equaling 1/7000th of a pound. Size and shape of the powder in it's final form will determine density and how much it takes (in weight) to fill the powder chamber of the measure.

Starting out you should probaby use the scale and focus on "quality" rather than "quantity". Youreally should get a good reloading manual and actually read it cover to cover, ask questions if there's something you don't fully understand, before you dive into it full-bore.

It ain't rocket surgery but you CAN hurt yourself if you're not paying attention...

should I or shouldn't I? - volume for the powder measure - then check it against the scale. Different powders take up different volume for the same weight.

Micrometer is only useful for fine tuning...
 
The Lee scale works but as you have found it can be temperamental. I would recommend a different scale like an Ohaus/RCBS 5-0-5 balance beam or a quality digital (or both). The Lee perfect powder measure also can be fussy and I usually use my Lyman 55 or RCBS for most powder throwing.

All the Lee single stage kits (50th) include a red powder funnel.


I notice you mention comparing the weight of a factory winchester.

If you mean a loaded factory round, you cannot get any useful info from the weight of loaded ammo or the powder in a factory made cartridge since you do not know what powder they are using, and there can be too many variables in case or bullet weight etc, to guess whats in it from weighing any complete round even if you knew the powder in it.
 
I have been reloading for 25 + yrs and still wieght every charge with the rcbs scale.I have tryed a couple digital scales,but always go back to the rcbs beam scale.
It takes a little longer but the results have always been great.
 
I had the same problem with my lee scale. I used it once and then went and bought a rcbs 5-0-5. The rcbs is awesome and very easy to use.
 
The OP was probably reading too deeply into the Lee 2nd edition where Richard touts the benefits of measuring by volume instead of weight, the theory is sound and there are some great benefits in initial setting things up but it should always come down to the scale at the end of the day.

4895 powder won't meter worth beans in any thrower if perfect charge weight is what your after... Throw low and trickle to desired weight.
 
check and check again

I have been reloading 55 grain Hornady bullets over IMR 4895 for over 20 years and use 31 grains of powder for my most accurate load.
don't have a manual with me but seem to remember 35 grains of this powder was max or near max?

The shells consist of: 34.5gr IMR 4895

might be a small variance in powder, but 34 gr was the low end of the safe zone

I have serious doubts and you had better be sure. Read a manual cover to cover before you undertake to reload for you don't have to make a serious miscalculation to have a serious accident. Powder charge errors are not necessarilly proportional by volume to severity.
 
It takes some practice to throw consistent charges with a powder measure. You need to practice for a while just throwing and weighing to get the hang of it. You need to work on getting a totally consistent movement of the powder measure arm (force used, speed, how hard you hit the end of travel on both ends, etc).

When a friend of mine started loading he came to the conclusion that his RCBS scale was junk a couldn't weigh a load with any consistency. I explained the above to him, he practiced just throwing and weighing loads for an evening and he had it down pat.
 
I use an Ohaus which is the same as a RCBS, 505 model . works great i`ve had it since the early 70`s. I use a powder measure as well usually with ball powders. They do take a little practice to throw consistent charges.
 
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