CZ 858 what to lube? What to run dry?

.223Rem

.223Rem

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Sorry if this is a dumb question but searching only turned up cleaning info.
I just got an 858 and after cleaning out the factory grease what should I oil?
I know anything that's sliding back and forth in the receiver but what about the firing pin? I know it's a no no on the sks. also, what about the bolt lock and breech block? Will putting a light coat of oil hurt anything in there? Lastly: the gas piston, I'm guessing it should be dry but i'm not sure.

Thanks for the help and sorry for the question that I'm sure is a re-peat :p
 
Keep the firing pin clean and dry, it should rattle back and forth when you shake the bolt.

Lubricate everything else. I prefer grease as it stays where you put it.
 
.223Rem said:
Sorry if this is a dumb question but searching only turned up cleaning info.
I just got an 858 and after cleaning out the factory grease what should I oil?
I know anything that's sliding back and forth in the receiver but what about the firing pin? I know it's a no no on the sks. also, what about the bolt lock and breech block? Will putting a light coat of oil hurt anything in there? Lastly: the gas piston, I'm guessing it should be dry but i'm not sure.

Thanks for the help and sorry for the question that I'm sure is a re-peat :p
Click to expand...
Personnally, i keep firing pin dry, as for the bolt i put a very little drop of oil on the contacts surfaces of the bolt and the carrier and also on the bolt lock. Less is much than too much since oil attract dirt. On winter i dont oil at all.
Jocelyn
 
clp clean lube protect is all i use light film on everything that move except the firing pin.
 
Thanks for the help! It's about what I figured.
On an unrelated note, is it normal for the bottom hand guard to have a sloppy fit? Mine slides back and forth about .05"
 
If it slides then grease. If it pivots oil it.
Keep the gas system dry.
Also rember less is best. ;)
As for the handguard most of the time its the pin that has seen better days. Replace it with a new roll pin and you should be good to go.
 
Satain said:
As for the handguard most of the time its the pin that has seen better days. Replace it with a new roll pin and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. The pin in mine seems fine, but the front metal bracket that the front of the hand guard fits in to isn't tight at all. I took off the guard to have a look and that part moves around quiet a bit.
I was hoping getting real wood would fix this problem but it's looking like i'll have to make some shims.

Edited to add: comparing it to other rifles, either my barf-wood guard is slightly short or the distance from my receiver to gas system is slightly to long. I wish there was a way to find out which is wrong :(
 
.223Rem said:
Thanks for the help. The pin in mine seems fine, but the front metal bracket that the front of the hand guard fits in to isn't tight at all. I took off the guard to have a look and that part moves around quiet a bit.
I was hoping getting real wood would fix this problem but it's looking like i'll have to make some shims.

Edited to add: comparing it to other rifles, either my barf-wood guard is slightly short or the distance from my receiver to gas system is slightly to long. I wish there was a way to find out which is wrong :(
Click to expand...
Do you have this piece installed on your lower handguard?
Shown here as the blue piece of metal between the wood and the reciever;
vz58_003_06.jpg

This is what the part looks like;
400_handguard-spacer.jpg

If not I don't know if I have one or not but Wolfgang @ Wolverine sure would ;)
 
Well, thanks for the help everyone. I ended up making a brass U shaped piece to fit in the bracket under the gas system and it tightened everything right up. (thanks for that idea Svt1940 :) )So much so that I actually has to remove the piece that Satain pointed out and it was still snug going in.

Still kinda hoping that after getting some real wood from Wolverine I wont need the shim, but I'm not to worried now that I have a good solution regardless.
:)
 
.223Rem said:
Well, thanks for the help everyone. I ended up making a brass U shaped piece to fit in the bracket under the gas system and it tightened everything right up. (thanks for that idea Svt1940 :) )So much so that I actually has to remove the piece that Satain pointed out and it was still snug going in.

Still kinda hoping that after getting some real wood from Wolverine I wont need the shim, but I'm not to worried now that I have a good solution regardless.
:)
Click to expand...
The reason why that metal braket is there cause over time from the barrel whip the soft wood degrates to a point that you handguard could come off. So just keep that in the back of your head when a year or 2 down the round you notice some play. I would keep that bracket in my shooting box and then take this rifle out to the range and dump a few hundread rounds down range. Once its nice hot I would then try to instal this piece back in. Also by making this area as tight as possible your repeateability of your point of impact will increase. But don't believe me try it for your self. ;)
 
I assumed the metal was there for a good reason :p
No way it's going on after a dump of rounds (unless the wood wears very quickly) as after installing the shim it took a bit of a push to set the back of the hand guard against the receiver. It's rock solid now but I plan on keeping the metal bit either for the real wood I plan to buy and now also in case by barf-wood wears out.

Thanks a lot for the help Satain :). Have to go out to a lunch with the girlfriend and her co-workers today, but after that it's off to the range!
 
I spray everything down with Eezox, mostly for corrosion protection and lube the contact points with lubriplate aero grease. Works great and no corrosion whatsoever. I shoot corrosive are rarely clean it.
 
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