Chilean Contract 1912 (Steyr M98 action) (Video Update!- Post #30)(Update- Post#38)

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djmay71

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I'm going to take the plunge into milsurps. Going to order the Chilean Contract 1912 in .308 from Trade Ex.
Did some research into these rifles, and the M98 action looks simple enough to maintain, etc. Also, from more research done, is that commercial 308 isn't recommended for these rifles, but rather the 7.62, because the SAAMI pressures are listed as lower, and therefore safer to shoot in these rechambered Mauser 98 actions.
Anybody want to confirm my research?

When I get the rifle, the first order of business will be the stock. Planning on refinishing it. From more research done on here and other websites, is to refrain from sanding, if possible, right? If your trying to prevent from sanding, how do you even out inconsistencies in the grain and wood? As well, what's your favourite wood stain? Oil based stains, are a no-no, right?

Anything else I should know about the rifle or the refinishing of the stock? I'm accepting of some constructive crit.
 
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I just got one yesterday but not from Trade Ex. If you have dents in the stock steam them out. Throw the sandpaper away, and read up on steaming. The stocks have a really nice coat of arms and a date on the right side of the butt stock, you will see it when it arrives. If the bolt is mis matched have the head spacing checked out.
If you mess with the stock, or drill the receiver for scope you just decreased the value.
You don't take 57 Chevy, paint it orange, and add a spoiler and expect to get top dollar out of it.
 
M98 actions have been used for just about every cartridge that can be fitted through them. 7.62x51 vs .308 is simply not an issue. Any older used rifle should certainly be inspected by someone who knows what he is looking at.
 
After seeing this picture of the common conversion from 7x57 to 7.62 NATO, I was a bit weary...

c5b.jpg


The way the conversion sleeve starts forming a gap between the barrel and chamber is a questionable.

I'd definitely get a gunsmith to take a gander.
 
WaffenMitUns said:
After seeing this picture of the common conversion from 7x57 to 7.62 NATO, I was a bit weary...

c5b.jpg


The way the conversion sleeve starts forming a gap between the barrel and chamber is a questionable.

I'd definitely get a gunsmith to take a gander.
Click to expand...


There's nothing wrong with the sleeve system. It works well and in the end, is a cheap conversion.

The sleeve is safe, in that if it loosens up, it can't come back in your face or cause the rifle to Kaboom. The bolt is close enough that it can't move back more than a few thou while firing.

I doubt there would even be any gas leakage or very minimal if the sleeve came loose either.

I won't say the sleeve can't or won't loosen up but I've seen a lot of rounds put down sleeved chambers. I have a 1911 Swiss, converted to 30-30 Win. It has a sleeved chamber. It honestly has 1500+ rounds down the tube, since I purchased it. The sleeve hasn't effected the accuracy one bit. It's one of the most accurate 30-30s I've used.
 
bearhunter said:
There's nothing wrong with the sleeve system. It works well and in the end, is a cheap conversion.

The sleeve is safe, in that if it loosens up, it can't come back in your face or cause the rifle to Kaboom. The bolt is close enough that it can't move back more than a few thou while firing.

I doubt there would even be any gas leakage or very minimal if the sleeve came loose either.

I won't say the sleeve can't or won't loosen up but I've seen a lot of rounds put down sleeved chambers. I have a 1911 Swiss, converted to 30-30 Win. It has a sleeved chamber. It honestly has 1500+ rounds down the tube, since I purchased it. The sleeve hasn't effected the accuracy one bit. It's one of the most accurate 30-30s I've used.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reassurance, however, I think I'll play things safe and use lower pressured 7.62 rounds.

albayo said:
I just got one yesterday but not from Trade Ex. If you have dents in the stock steam them out. Throw the sandpaper away, and read up on steaming. The stocks have a really nice coat of arms and a date on the right side of the butt stock, you will see it when it arrives. If the bolt is mis matched have the head spacing checked out.
If you mess with the stock, or drill the receiver for scope you just decreased the value.
You don't take 57 Chevy, paint it orange, and add a spoiler and expect to get top dollar out of it.
Click to expand...

Defintely not planning on scoping this. Its defintely going to be a project.
 
WaffenMitUns said:
After seeing this picture of the common conversion from 7x57 to 7.62 NATO, I was a bit weary...

c5b.jpg


The way the conversion sleeve starts forming a gap between the barrel and chamber is a questionable.

I'd definitely get a gunsmith to take a gander.
Click to expand...

I believe they did this on the 95 not the 98 Mauser.
 
I have one of the Chilean 1912's in 7x57 on order. The Steyr made M98's are top quality. Don't modify or alter the rifle in any way. You'll only decrease the value.

The M98 conversions to 7.62 were done by Steyr in the '60's and used surplus Springfield barrels rechambered and rethreaded. They shouldn't have an insert like the M95 action conversions. This is what my research turned up any way.
 
Thanks for all the help. Ordered, and sent in all the info. In hand by next week? I'm hoping so. :)

Other than steaming the stock, is there anything else that can be done without reducing its marketable value to refinish the stock? I'm thinking of using some of the Circa 1850 stripper to CAREFULLY strip down the finish. After that, a good lathering of Linseed oil, correct? Where can large amounts of Linseed oil be found? What about using fine steel wool to clean up all the metal parts- yay or nay?
 
The Mauser factory had their own stock finish, very thin, linseed oil based.... but it was bright RED. That's why the peculiar colour of the older Mauser rifles. The Mauser factory still makes and uses the stuff and they actually sell it if you need some. Stockmaker friend of mine got a gallon from them, quite a few years ago. Hundred bucks but well worth it.

I don't know what original stock finish the Steyr plant was using. It would have been linssed-oil based, but only the colour of the wood itself will tell you. Look for an area inside the woodwork which hasn't been soaked, take a tiny sliver from it. That gives you the colour of the WOOD. From that, you can extrapolate the colour of the finishing material.

Hope this helps.
.
 
smellie said:
The Mauser factory had their own stock finish, very thin, linseed oil based.... but it was bright RED. That's why the peculiar colour of the older Mauser rifles. The Mauser factory still makes and uses the stuff and they actually sell it if you need some. Stockmaker friend of mine got a gallon from them, quite a few years ago. Hundred bucks but well worth it.

I don't know what original stock finish the Steyr plant was using. It would have been linssed-oil based, but only the colour of the wood itself will tell you. Look for an area inside the woodwork which hasn't been soaked, take a tiny sliver from it. That gives you the colour of the WOOD. From that, you can extrapolate the colour of the finishing material.

Hope this helps.
.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'll only strip down the rifle if the finish looks to be in bad shape.
 
djmay71 said:
Thanks for all the help. Ordered, and sent in all the info. In hand by next week? I'm hoping so. :)

Other than steaming the stock, is there anything else that can be done without reducing its marketable value to refinish the stock? I'm thinking of using some of the Circa 1850 stripper to CAREFULLY strip down the finish. After that, a good lathering of Linseed oil, correct? Where can large amounts of Linseed oil be found? What about using fine steel wool to clean up all the metal parts- yay or nay?
Click to expand...

It has been suggested to you that using a chemical stripper, steaming out the dents and refinishing the stock is going to detract from the originality of the rifle, and this would affect the value. But it is your rifle, do as you please. Linseed oil can be purchased in the paint section of any hardware store. Get the "boiled" variety, which has chemical dryers added. You will not need large amounts. A small can will last for years, and be enough for many stocks. You could cut it a bit with turpentine. Before destroying the originality of the stock in an attempt to make it smooth and shiney, try scrubbing the stock with the linseeed/turpentine mix and either rags or 0000 (very fine) steel wool. This will remove surface grunge. Safely dispose of linseed oil saturated rags, or you might find out what spontaneous combustion is. Apply and rub in small amounts of linseed over a period of weeks. You could also rub the stock down with some wax.
 
tiriaq said:
It has been suggested to you that using a chemical stripper, steaming out the dents and refinishing the stock is going to detract from the originality of the rifle, and this would affect the value. But it is your rifle, do as you please. Linseed oil can be purchased in the paint section of any hardware store. Get the "boiled" variety, which has chemical dryers added. You will not need large amounts. A small can will last for years, and be enough for many stocks. You could cut it a bit with turpentine. Before destroying the originality of the stock in an attempt to make it smooth and shiney, try scrubbing the stock with the linseeed/turpentine mix and either rags or 0000 (very fine) steel wool. This will remove surface grunge. Safely dispose of linseed oil saturated rags, or you might find out what spontaneous combustion is. Apply and rub in small amounts of linseed over a period of weeks. You could also rub the stock down with some wax.
Click to expand...

Like I said in post #11, I'm only going to refinish if the stock is in bad shape.
Also, *stupid question alert*: What is the proper way to dispose of linseed oil soaked rags? Should it be treated in a manner similar to gasoline?
 
I dispose of oily rags in one of two ways. I have a woodstove. Or, they are kept outside, clear of the shop, until I am going to the dump.
 
Just don't leave linseed oil saturated rags lying around. In industry, steel cans with close fitting lids are used to store oily rags untill they can be disposed of at the end of the day.
 
The insert would not be used in the 1912 conversion. As mentioned before, another barrel would be used as it was originally manufactured in 7X57.
I will have to dig out my original 1912 in 7X57 and compare them.
 
THe 1912s were not chamber sleeved. They used Springlfield .30-06 barrels, recontored the outside and cut the chamber end and rechambers to .308/7.62. Mine has a two groove barrel and the machining on the outside of the barrel contour is alot rougher than you would see coming out of a Steyr plan in 1912. SHoot any .308/7.62 out of it you want, model 98s can take that pressure and THEN some. 8X57 (which the M98 is also chambered in) is a high pressure round generating as much if not more C.U.P. than 7.62. M98s were also chambered in .30-06 for south ameican countries, rechambered to 7.62 nato for isreal and are the basis for many magnum and wildcat cartridges. I would worry about it. Most of these after rebarreling were packed away. The original parts of the gun have the "heavily used" look to them but my barrel is absolutely pristine.
 
German ordnance 7.92x57, was generally loaded to around 47,000psi.

Their Kurtz round was loaded to around 40,000psi.

According to The Book of Rifles.

I agree, they are very strong actions. Not a lot goes wrong with them, that isn't caused by shooter stupidity.
 
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