bullet just falls into the case?

thats why i ask, ive got no problem catching a little flak from people who think im asking a basic to them question. rather not have my gun blow up in my face, even though im sure it would make a great post with some fun pictures. lol
 
Great , you asked it before . All you needs to do is buy a reloading manual , read it the first few pages where introductions and instructions are . Ammosmith - com has really good you-tube videos on most beginning subjects . Ask where ever and what ever you needs to be clear , no one's born expert here except few armchair high flyers .
 
If I may give some advice stop all loading and read through your reloading manual .it will give insight as to what you should be doing and in what order. If you don’t have a manual you need to get one before you go any farther. here also is a good site with some very good videos .http://www.ammosmith.com/

X2 I agree with rembolt.
Read the instructions with the dies and the press. I never trust just one reloading manual I always check with a second. There is a reason they all have disclaimers.
 
Uchi I recommend you get a manual like Lee 2nd or Lyman 49th, Speer 14 etc. But the pamphlet for the press does have the info needed. What it doesnt have is all the tips to solve problems if everything doesnt go perfect.

I would start with Full Length sizing before learning neck sizing or anything else. I would also load some dummy rounds with no primer or powder to make sure everything is setup right and they cycle in your gun fine.

1 Full length (FL) size a fired lubed case, wipe off lube
2 Check case length, trim and debur end if too long
3 Prime (skip for dummy round) make sure primer is seated just below flush
4 Measure powder and Charge case (must be reputable data)(skip for dummy)
5 Seat bullet in case to proper length in manual
6 Crimp if needed (not needed for most guns you can learn this later)
 
uchi said:
i was going through my reloading stuff tonight, screwing around with things basically, and i wanted to start setting up the dies for depth and what not, i put a bullet onto a shot case and it just fell in. im reloading 30.06 ammo, using a lee breach lock challanger press, i made a post regarding flaring and crimping and the guys said that tapered neck rounds like rifle rounds dont need it. i dont see a crimper in my kit anywhere and its supposed to be a complete kit. using rcbs dies with this kit. am i missing something or can i use the die that presses the bullet into the case to crimp the neck since it has a taper on the inside
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Well, you sure livened up the reloading community here! It has been pretty quiet for a while, so good for you.
I like to see people, new reloaders or not, using their heads and figuring things out, and for this I find a bit of fault with you.
Look at a loaded cartridge. The bullet is held in tight, whether crimped or not. Now, look at an empty, fired case. Doesn't it make sense that the brass will be expanded by the extremely high pressure and that it should be obvious that a bullet would fit easily into the neck?
I also fault the principals behind the newer reloading manuals, where every tiny detail is spelled out and every dimension given of how and what to do, without an explanation of why you do these things.
Yes, read the manuals from cover to cover and you will become a robot that can assemble ammunition.
An example. How many times on these CGN threads do we hear this question?
"I'm reloading for a 30-06 and I just purchased a box of 180 grain, Fast as Lightning Super Game Getter bullets, but none of my loading books show data for these bullets. Does anybody have loading information for these bullets?"
I rest my case.
 
uchi said:
i was told i didnt need to resize. after some more screwing around i found that when i push out the old primer it seems to resize the case and the bullet no longer willingly goes into the hole.
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Stop what you are doing immediately. Go and get yourself a reloading manual and read it ...... TWICE ...... Before you attempt to proceed any further.

Otherwise your next post will be a description of how you. Lee yourself and your gun sky high.

PS do not take any more advice from the clown who said you don't need to resize fired brass. He hasn't got a clue.
 
I teach a reloading course at the local club my first advice is buy a manual. My second is buy , borrow or steal as many as you can, the more info you get the better. It helps if you can get a experienced loader the help you out to start. I don't really mean steal the manuals by the way.
 
the first thing to do is GET A NEW FRIEND- if he lead you this far astray , lord only knows what he'll tell you further on down the line- maybe something like you have to load hotter in alberta and b.c. because the Bullets have climb hills-
 
H4831 said:
Well, you sure livened up the reloading community here! It has been pretty quiet for a while, so good for you.
I like to see people, new reloaders or not, using their heads and figuring things out, and for this I find a bit of fault with you.
Look at a loaded cartridge. The bullet is held in tight, whether crimped or not. Now, look at an empty, fired case. Doesn't it make sense that the brass will be expanded by the extremely high pressure and that it should be obvious that a bullet would fit easily into the neck?
I also fault the principals behind the newer reloading manuals, where every tiny detail is spelled out and every dimension given of how and what to do, without an explanation of why you do these things.
Yes, read the manuals from cover to cover and you will become a robot that can assemble ammunition.
An example. How many times on these CGN threads do we hear this question?
"I'm reloading for a 30-06 and I just purchased a box of 180 grain, Fast as Lightning Super Game Getter bullets, but none of my loading books show data for these bullets. Does anybody have loading information for these bullets?"
I rest my case.
Click to expand...

So very true. And one reason why I think a mentor is the best way to learn reloading once a person has done their homework and read something about the subject.

I love those questions ... lets me know who I should and shouldn't listen to when I ask for advice if I run into a problem.
 
uchi said:
thanks guys, im not making any loads yet just learning how everything works, figuring out how to de prime, prime, clean, set up the scale, etc etc. the reloading kit came with its pamphlets on how to use the press but i wont actually start doing any actual loading until ive bought the book and read it. in the mean time im just learning through you tube and asking here if i get lost. but no actual loading until the book is in my hands and im 100% sure i know what im doing. thanks for all the help guys.
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OH GOOD then
 
It took me a bit to finally get the hang of it.
I still do the odd "why did I do that?" thing.
I measure each and every goll darn part of the step.
I bought a decapping die and decap the brass, then
tumble then the I start from here.
I do brass and reloading all in stages and a bunch at a time.
Do not forget to chamber your hunting reloads before you
go for the walk. How many have found their reloads won't fit.
Check a few brass after you full length them in your firearm.
They are harmless without the primer or powder/bullets in them.
This way you can immediately check your brass right out of the die.
 
kamlooky said:
It took me a bit to finally get the hang of it.
I still do the odd "why did I do that?" thing.
I measure each and every goll darn part of the step.
I bought a decapping die and decap the brass, then
tumble then the I start from here.
I do brass and reloading all in stages and a bunch at a time.
Do not forget to chamber your hunting reloads before you
go for the walk. How many have found their reloads won't fit.
Check a few brass after you full length them in your firearm.
They are harmless without the primer or powder/bullets in them.
This way you can immediately check your brass right out of the die.
Click to expand...

I recently just solved this exact scenario after having a gun "out of commission for a few years (coudln't afford to have a gunsmith look at it). Even newly resized brass, with spent primers still in them, would cycle perfectly ... until i pulled the trigger on them, then they would jam solid and could not be extracted without a rod down the barrel.

Double checked every measurement - and all was exactly according to the brand new book I had bought.

Solved it by using the data from an older book. Newer books list the Case length at 0.064" longer than older manuals. Was causing the cases to jam. Shortened the cases to the older data (since it is an older gun) and works flawlessly now.
 
thanks for the links and all the help guys. the info about crimping was from here i just missunderstood the advice i was given, my fault there. aside from that all the help from here has been great and very helpful in my quest. im going over the boarder in the next week to grab a tumbler and reloading book so after i get through that ill get started on making some loads. maybe even grab a scale, i set up the lee scale last night and i think i hate it. nice that its included in the kit but ill go digital for sure. trying to be as prepared as i can be before i start. and ive got a buddy whos reloaded 9mm so hes gonna help me once im ready to start just to make sure im going in the right direction
 
2-year-old-smoking-cigarette-X3.jpg
 
IMagius said:
I recently just solved this exact scenario after having a gun "out of commission for a few years (coudln't afford to have a gunsmith look at it). Even newly resized brass, with spent primers still in them, would cycle perfectly ... until i pulled the trigger on them, then they would jam solid and could not be extracted without a rod down the barrel.

Double checked every measurement - and all was exactly according to the brand new book I had bought.

Solved it by using the data from an older book. Newer books list the Case length at 0.064" longer than older manuals. Was causing the cases to jam. Shortened the cases to the older data (since it is an older gun) and works flawlessly now.
Click to expand...

Just to point out why the longer cases stuck.
They likely stuck because of a way too much pressure. When you forced the cartridge in the chamber, the long case squeezed hard on the bullet. That greatly increases pressure, causing the cases to stick hard to the walls of the chamber, just like a large over looad of powder would do.
The only mishap I have ever had in hand loading was from this exact same cause. I got careless with a 270 and didn't trim the cases often enough on my plinking cases. I had the strong action Sako L61.
We had been on a two week trip in high mountains, left by aircraft on a lake. We had returned to the lake, waiting to be picked up. I sat on the lakeshore, loaded a plinker cartridge and bore down on a distant rock.
There was a tremendous roar and a ball of fire a foot across around the action. A primer had blown and it blew the extractor, and some other minor pieces, off the bolt.
At home, when I got everything out, you could see where the mouth of the neck had squeezed into the throat.
 
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