percussion caps

There are two sizes of caps commonly available. #11 and musket. If the 11s are too big, pinch them so they stay in place. If the nipple is too big, polish it down until the caps fit.
 
tiriaq said:
There are two sizes of caps commonly available. #11 and musket. If the 11s are too big, pinch them so they stay in place. If the nipple is too big, polish it down until the caps fit.
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There are also a few #10's out there. I think remington made them. they are tight on #11 nipples. I believe they were made for revolvers. Haven't seen them for about 20 years, though.
 
Here are measurements of some current production percussion caps:


Inside Diameter...........Length

CCI #11 .162" .162"
Remington #11 .162" .150
Remington #10 .164" .180"

From random samples using Calipers, actual inside diameter may vary depending on method of measurement.
 
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Anyone in the know that can tell me more about this rifle please do. (in particular two small adjusting screws in the trigger guard. I think the one in between the triggers will adjust sensitivity of the "fire" trigger, but the rear screw has me scratching my head.)
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That nipple looks quite short for a conventional sporting rifle nipple - really well beaten down or more like those used on percussion revolvers. If you are planning to shoot the rifle much it might be preferable to install a new nipple then you know the #11 caps will fit. Nipples cost less than $10.
 
Skinny 1950 said:
Here are measurements of some current production percussion caps:


Inside Diameter...........Length

CCI #11 .162" .162"
Remington #11 .162" .150
Remington #10 .164" .180"
Click to expand...

I think you must have a measuring error on the #10 caps - they are slightly smaller than #11 and intended for percussion revolvers.

In answer to the last question; revolver nipples are noticeably shorter than rifle nipples and when capped must still clear the recoil shield behind them. They usually come in a package of 6. For a rifle, the main issue is whether or not the hammer will strike the nipple and cap. If they are too short the gun will not fire. If the existing nipple is noticeably short and in a rifle it may be a revolver nipple incorrectly used or an old nipple worn down. In old original guns, you should expect to commonly see the nipples badly worn or hammered down, often from dry firing by people who do not know the error of their ways

cheers mooncoon
 
cap size

my measurement shows #10 CCI caps at .156 just about .006 less than #11. nipples are the cheapest way to get a gun to accomodate your cap problem. out here they are about 3.50 each bought in a bulk pac at gun shows. in past i got a great deal on #10 in volume so i modified the nipples on two trail guns to take advantage of the find.
 
Hmmm....when the hammer is rested down on the nipple I don't believe it contacts the "top" of the nipple (no its not bashed), rather the hammer recess rim seems to rest on the outside flat of the nipple. The nipple to me looks unused.....its old but unfired I believe.
Should the hammer recess be able to make contact with the top of the nipple with no cap in place?
I'm familiar with a "warranted" lock, but can anyone shed light on a "Marranted" Lock? I'm thinking there is more to it than an inverted W.....it's definitely an M
 
The hammer should rest hard and square on the top of the nipple and if it looks new then almost certainly the old one has been replaced by a pistol nipple which is incorrect. Get a proper rifle nipple and it will take #11 caps.
The word Warranted and the maker's name were often cast into the lock plate, rather than stamped or engraved so I would guess this was a rouse to make the lock look better quality than it really is - especially when not accompanied by the name of the maker as in this case. Much like cheap Belgian shotguns marked W W Richards in hope of being mistaken for a genuine, high quality and expensive Westley Richards made in London.
 
Nipple threads are usually 1/4-28NF. You can confirm this by removing the nipple and trying to thread it into a 1/4-28 nut or by threading a 1/4-28 bolt into the snail. If the threads are worn or rusted so the nipple is loose, you can order slightly oversize - thread nipples from Dixie Gun works and also Track of the Wolf, I believe. Regardless, it is no big deal.
 
Ol' Flinter said:
Nipple threads are usually 1/4-28NF. You can confirm this by removing the nipple and trying to thread it into a 1/4-28 nut or by threading a 1/4-28 bolt into the snail. If the threads are worn or rusted so the nipple is loose, you can order slightly oversize - thread nipples from Dixie Gun works and also Track of the Wolf, I believe. Regardless, it is no big deal.
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The tread on this nipple and "snail!?" aren't fine, actually very course with quite an aggressive pitch. Perhaps less than 1 1/2 turns and 1/4" (threaded end)of the nipple is seated.

Flinter, thanks for the "snail" terminology I'm new to BP and didn't know this term.
 
bp info

further on the hammer to nipple fit- a properly set-up piece will have the hammer stroke stop 2-3 thou short of the nipple. this allows the compression and explosion of the compound without damaging the nipple. have had a few that were set up this way and they have always worked fine. most of the newer made spanish and italian are not as refined and as a result i keep touching up the nipples so the caps will still sit down far enough to fire on the first strike.
 
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