swedish rolling block 12.7x44 carbine

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ratherbefishin

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I see Tradeex has a few swedish Rolling Block carbines[full stock]

I'm not familiar with this model-I'm assuming that would be black powder being 12.7x44 .They look like they have a much shorter barrel than the standard military rifles-is that sufficient to get a reasonable velocity with a barrel of that length?
 
Depends what you mean I guess. Was good enough for the military that designed it that way.

If its long range target shooting then probably giving up a lot of preformance with a short barrel but for typical playing under 100 yards I can't see it being signifigant.

You can make up for the short barrel velocity loss a little by using a finer faster powder. Or maybe by delving into smokeless loads. I would personally stick to black and accept it for what it is. Make a heck of a handy bush or walking gun.
 
Anyone here reloading this cartridge?
I just got a press and began with some 30/06 don't really know where to start for this round.
I understand you have to make the brass from .358 Norma?
 
Paatz said:
Anyone here reloading this cartridge?
I just got a press and began with some 30/06 don't really know where to start for this round.
I understand you have to make the brass from .358 Norma?
Click to expand...

Do more homework before you stock up on brass, eh.

Just sayin'.

12.7x44 is pretty close to a 50-70 case in size. Some of the Swedes will apparently chamber a 50-70. Some have had a 50-70 reamer run through them.

.358 Norma is a belted magnum case. The 12.7 is a rimmed one.

Dig up the case dimensions and have a good sit-down with them.
Steves Pages would be a decent place to start.

Cheers
Trev
 
I've been looking at these 12.7x44 rb carbines-they seem to have at least a couple of variations at the muzzle-one has the stock extend all the way to the muzzle with a cap and protective ears for the front sight,and the other has the stock end just short of the muzzle,with no cap.
 
Paatz said:
Anyone here reloading this cartridge?
I just got a press and began with some 30/06 don't really know where to start for this round.
I understand you have to make the brass from .358 Norma?
Click to expand...

Probably thinking of the 348 Win. Not that they are terribly easy to come by either. The 50-70 is where most people start from what I have heard.
 
The parent case is .348 Winchester. Reloading for it is pretty easy after you have formed and trimmed the cases. That being said, I've re-chambered several of them to .50-70, and it is a very simple job, done by hand. I tried several different bullets, I found the 350 grain RCBS .512 bullet to work extremely well. The rifling twist is extremely slow, 1 in 48" IIRC. They are really nice handling carbines and work really well for hunting and fun. I could probably source you some .50 Alaskan cases (.348 Winchester blown out to .50) to trim down for 12.7x44r. Check CH4D for dies if you are considering keeping the chambering.
 
Twist?
I don't have the gun in front of me, but was positive mine had no twist in the rifling.
Is that possible?
 
Possible? Yes, there have been guns made with straight rifling, but very few. The rolling block has twist in the rifling, but it will look almost straight because there will be just over half a revolution in that length of barrel.
 
New .348Win brass is available at Higginson Powders.

Tradex sells new 8mm Lebel brass which also works.

I've had good results with both, as well as some Starline .50-70 Gov't that I got my paws on from the U.S.

For the first two: I anneal first, then lube and flare using RCBS .38/.357 mouth flaring die, pushing all the way to, but not past, the threads on the male part. Hack-saw to length, trim and camfer, anneal again, lube and form with .50-70 mouth-flare die. I only split two cases out of 25 doing this, and that was because I forgot the first annealing! Even with those, I could cut and trim a little short (41mm)


For my m/1867 (12.7x44R military config, 34" barrel):
  1. I had to trim cases to 43 mm length.
  2. The base of the Lebel brass is a bit smaller, so I put two wraps of 1/4" wide masking tape.
  3. The re-formed .348Win brass is thick at the new .50-calibre mouth, so seating a boolit that's too big (> .515") will expand the case so it won't chamber in my gun. I didn't feel like pulling those (experimental) ones, so I sanded the case so it would fit. In future I will not try with anything bigger than .515".
  4. The rim on the .50-70 is too wide to chamber in my gun, so I trimmed it down by chucking each case in a drill and spinning the rim against a fine file.
My first loads for testing were 7-10gr each of Unique and Trail Boss, with boolits of 385gr, 440gr, and 525 gr, all SOFT lead. I used Lee alox on some and bore-butter on some others. I had to test them at an indoor range at 25 yds. Accuracy was surprising. At first I just held offhand and didn't much care, but after the first bunch, I shot off sandbags, and five shots struck within a 2" circle. Recoil and report were almost laughingly light, but after all it is heavy and long-barreled. I recovered some of the lead afterwards, and could still smell the pine-scent of the bore-butter.

I have loaded some with between 30-40gr Pyrodex with the same boolits, using milk-carton wads and crisco-beeswax cookies, but they'll have to wait until I can get to an outdoor range.

It's a lot of work but still fun. I can't wait to get started on my m/1867-89 in 8x58RD !


vagrantviking said:
Probably thinking of the 348 Win. Not that they are terribly easy to come by either. The 50-70 is where most people start from what I have heard.
Click to expand...
 
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